Lessons to learn

We went ashore to visit the extensive market area of Tual (Indonesia) and discovered the poverty of the area. There was tiny stall after stall of merchants selling anything and everything, usually under tarped roofs. Some were sitting on the ground displaying their wares or selling in alleyways in very dim conditions with no lighting. During the heat and/or rain of the day, sheltering tarps would also hang down in front.

Get it here...

The water's edge was littered with garbage and we watched more than once as the denizens walked from their waterfront hut or market stall and tossed a full plastic bag of trash into the ocean! We were speechless...but what could we say even if there wasn't a language barrier?

Such things as garbage containers and pickup and recycling that we take for granted back home are an unknown concept to so many here. Most of the populous here are predominantly concerned in just eking out an existence, leaving no enthusiasm or energy to promote a wholesome environment.

It was very disheartening to see the constant disposal of plastic garbage into the ocean. Yes, we too dump garbage into the ocean but only biodegradable and non-harmful items such as paper or produce waste, metal cans, and glass jars while at deeper seas. Sea Turtle's garbage after 21 days = 1 small bag of hard plastics/tetra containers and 1 jug stuffed full with soft plastics, none of which goes into the ocean.

Minimal garbage

Our agent's helper, who also works as a teacher, asked the cruisers to visit his students to expose them to some foreign influence and to practice their limited English. We were happy to learn that the students are learning to be environmentally conscious and are taught and practice recycling. They even make items for sale such as plastic flowers from collected garbage. Hopefully the young can teach their elders about the importance of the environment but we feel it will take persistence and 1 generation to see results.

Other hand crafts they make include jewelry from shells and beads, and cloth wear that they produce from their sewing classes. Each of the women cruisers were given a beautiful pair of earrings made by the students.

Students are taught English in school and were interested in the cruisers' stories as we spoke about our travels and answered many questions. The classroom is divided into 2 levels of education. The ages seemed to range from about 12 to 17 years.

Jordan surrounded by students and cruisers

In another classroom, we watched as the girls worked on their sewing projects. These young girls actually sew the smart-looking uniforms of their teachers...

The students had also prepared a small lunch for everyone and had it nicely displayed. The rice rolls were very scrumptious (I should have asked for the recipe!) followed by a tasty pudding, and all washed down with refreshing homemade mango-papaya juice. Back in my school daze, I was taught Home Economics where I learned sewing and cooking too as the boys were busy with Shop (mechanics, welding, etc.) Our sewing machines were a lot more modern but these old treadle Singers appeared to make perfect seams.

Oldie but goodie

Computer usage is also taught at the school but we found the internet to be very slow not only at the school but throughout Tual. After a lot of scouting, we found 1 internet shop that had pretty good connections but you had to use their computers as they had no wi-fi.

A bevy of boys

Now in Tual Indonesia, the Quarantine official arrived and cleared us as promised by our agent's helper. We lowered our yellow flag and could now go ashore when desired. Our helper happily stated You are lucky. One day check in! and he was now on his way to deal with Customs, Immigration, and the Harbour Master.

We soon had visitors, totally UNofficial. A canoeful of 6 young boys wearing shorts or bathing trunks knocked on Sea Turtle's side. Their rambunctious greeting included virtually no English other than the soon to become so familiar Hey Mister. Slowly, 1 by 1, they came aboard and wandered around checking things out and were so taken with the binoculars. As usual, they all wanted pictures taken, well, except for 1. He was naked and a little shy with me being present. He was getting to the age where we figured he should probably have something on around people, especially females. He was thrilled when Jordan gave him a pair of shorts and a stringed belt.

Hey Mister!

Next an old man paddled up to Sea Turtle in his blue and red hollowed out canoe with a green paddle. Sporting a goatee and mustache, shorts and a faded denim shirt, he was wearing a pointed home-made plastic hat overtop of his baseball cap. He smiled at us with his weathered face and simply stood in his canoe as he held to the side of Sea Turtle. He spoke no English. After many minutes, he handed a fish to 1 of the young boys aboard and then paddled off, still smiling.

The simple life

Finally Jordan decided the 6 boys needed some excitement and as an excuse to have them on their way, he offered them a ride in the dinghy, 2 at a time. They jumped at the opportunity. Jordan sped off, circling around and never slowing down as they hooted and hollered and were delivered ashore.

After the boys left, we went over to Veedon Fleece once again for a nightcap and met 2 other boats that had just arrived at the anchorage, friends of Veedon Fleece. Azzan and Relapse also offered us tidbits of information of Indonesia as they too were on their way back to Australia and New Zealand after spending their time in Indonesia and beyond. We were the only ones that had just arrived and were continuing west.

Indonesia check in

While still in New Zealand back in August, we had hired an Indonesian agent located in Jakarta to handle all the paperwork required for checking into Indonesia. He was very highly recommended by sailor friends and we had even personally met him when he gave a presentation to all the sailors in Opua, New Zealand, who were planning to visit his country.

He very expediently handled our CAIT (cruising permit), sponsor letter, and VISA forms. All we had to do was take the paperwork with VISA forms to get our VISAs as processed and passports stamped at their embassy in Fiji. Simple. All handled by our agent very quickly with instant answers to any email questions that we had. Very efficient. No problems, right?

Our agent then emailed us the name of the town where we were to check in to the country, and the name of his helper who would complete the necessary steps.

After our joyous experience at our 1st Indonesian island, we arrived 7.5 hours later at the sprawling small city of Tual (S05°38.302' E132°44.367') on October 13th where we were to officially check in. Tual is on the island on Kei Kecil. There was only 1 other boat anchored, Veedon Fleece, out of Australia and they immediately invited us over for a welcoming happy hour cocktail.

Veedon Fleece was on their way back home after spending 3 years cruising the islands and countries in the area. They were so helpful with many hints of getting around Tual such as where to find what, etc. When they discovered that we were using the same agent's helper as they were using, they generously liaised with him with their cell phone.

Being a Sunday, we expected nothing to happen until the next morning. But our agent's helper arrived Sunday evening to Sea Turtle. He filled out some papers and said the Quarantine official would arrive the next morning so that we could then go ashore. Our helper left as we shooed away pesky no-see-ums!

Our evening ended with the constant mournful wailing drone from the various competing mosques' loudspeakers of the 'calling to prayer' dirge. This happens 5 times per day: 05:00, 13:00, 16:00, 19:00, and 20:00!

INDONESIA

Finally after 17 days of passage from Vanuatu to Indonesia, we were able to stop at an Indonesian island called Kei Besar. Again our anchor would not hold but we spotted a mooring ball close to a cement dock at a small village. We figured it would be okay to use it for a short visit (S05°49.295' E132°54.203').We could see a village and people waving on the dock so we took the dinghy ashore even though we had not yet officially checked in to Indonesia. This was only a small village and there would be no officials.

As we dinghied in, we saw loads of starfish covering the sandy ocean floor. They looked like the chocolate chip starfish and were everywhere. We have never seen so many in 1 area.

Once ashore, we were assured that it was okay to use the mooring ball for awhile and through body language more than anything were invited to walk the streets and take in the sights. Soon we noticed a gaggle of curious but shy children, all dressed in motley typical contemporary attire. Their diffidence was quickly replaced with excitement as we beckoned them to pose for photos. How they squealed with the thrill of seeing themselves on the camera!

Smile!

A friendly elderly local man indicated for us to follow him for a tour around their lovely village. As we started to walk, we were followed by all the children, and with each step, more seemed to accumulate making us feel like the Pied Piper!

We inquired how to say Hello in Indonesian and the reply was Hello. Thinking we were misunderstood, we asked again with the same reply. We weren't sure why they didn't understand our question but later learned that Hello is actually Hallo in the Indonesian language! The very slight difference in pronunciation did not register with us.

The village, set within a backdrop of verdant tropical jungle, was a composite of 2 areas separated by about a half kilometre walkway. One was predominantly Muslim and the other Christian. We walked uphill and downhill, along a concrete walkway, past neatly kept gardens, and ending at a beach. The chortling children would sing and skip along, always beaming with gaiety. I had 2 girls, 1 on each side of me, with a 3rd jostling for position. We were definitely a novelty and I felt very special indeed.

1 follower posing as I wandered ahead

Some of the kids would stop to easily collect and eat baby mangoes along the walkway, another found a large nut and smashed it open with a large rock and then gobbled it down, and 1 youngster would move her hands like wildfire as she sang or spoke in Indonesian. There was constant movement and sound within the group, as well as clucking chickens and honking ducks. What fun!

Finding baby mangoes in dense forest

We passed by some type of root vegetable that was drying in the sun in woven baskets for later consumption. As to what it exactly was seemed to be lost in translation.

Drying root vegetable

We were given permission to collect a 'nafara' for later consumption from the luscious rainforest that was our canopy. (A nafara is a sprouting coconut that we so love the taste of.)

As we returned, we took a different path leading down to the beach. We saw only 1 outrigger among all the canoes which seems to be the desired type of transportation and working boat in this part of the world. We then went back up the path and when looking down to the ocean saw a passenger/ferry boat filled to the rim with people - and we were on his mooring ball!! No worries. He had tied up in tandem to the mooring ball with enough line to just clear our stern.

Loaded with passengers returning from main island

We quickly hurried back to the village pier so we could return to Sea Turtle. But we stopped when we heard delightful chorus emanating from the schoolhouse. There, a teacher leading the children with his guitar had his students in full delightful melody and the children with us joined in.

As we arrived at the dock, we noticed dozens of small motorbikes, the only means of transportation on the path-like roads of the island. Friends and/or relatives had gathered to greet the disembarking boat passengers. The tide was out so longboats were shuttling the passengers ashore over the shallows.

Arriving passengers

We hurried to Sea Turtle, then Jordan joined in the offloading with our dinghy to the delight of many. The boat was FULL of people waiting for a ride. As they waited, people stared at me, with little conversation. Finally, someone who could speak a little English started a conversation with me and asked if he could come aboard. The ferry boat and Sea Turtle were so close together that he could just step across from his bow to our stern. I agreed, wanting to reciprocate the village's hospitality. He had someone take many photos of him standing by me (we later found out that he was the Captain of the ferry).

Do you think they are regulated for safety?

And then everyone was snapping pictures of Sea Turtle and me - so of course I took photos of them also! So many photos taken, everyone smiling, waving, posing, trying to communicate with just a bit of English and body language.

Jordan on ferry

Once Jordan returned to our boat, a couple came down below to see Sea Turtle's interior before we were on our own. Then only the crew was left on the ferry. Oddly enough, they all sat on the bow and watched everything we did as we tidied up the ropes, the deck, the cockpit, etc. Like being on Candid Camera! Finally we went below just to get some privacy.

When the tide rose, the crew said we could stay on the mooring ball and the ferry went in to the dock and tied up. We quickly showered on deck, au naturel with no one around. Then we sat in the cockpit with wine, cheese, and crackers - reminiscing on what an unusual and great day we had - the joys of a sailing life!

Passage to Indonesia

We initiated a great passage from Vanuatu to Indonesia on the 25th of September with a nice Mahi Mahi catch that gave us a dozen meals. We had a very good ratio of sail days versus motoring. The 1st half of the passage was a good constant stiff trade wind breeze that pushed up our average daily distance. One day, Sea Turtle boasted 150 nautical miles. Then as we made the big dog leg path through the labyrinth of islands and reef of the Torres Strait, the wind provided good power and direction. Even as the wind went light, it swung around on our stern and the sea settled to an insipid state; we hoisted our spinnaker for a couple of lazy days.

Spinnaker sunset

The usual morning deck walk had Jordan picking up scores of flying fish that had made their last flight (as many as 25 stuck in all parts of Sea Turtle's deck and rigging. We saw lots of bird life including boobies and those cute wee ones that flitter over the surface, momentarily extending on foot to water ski, even in the most tempestuous of seas. Add to the list, 1 large sea turtle and even a pod of small dolphins on our bow wave.

The ocean colours changed through our passage from a deep, dark midnight blue to a beautiful light cerulean blue with even a vivid purplish colour in some areas. We also saw strange blankets of what appeared to be a muddy looking goo and not attractive at all.

Floating goo

We saw just a few freighters during our 1st week, but by our 2nd week, particularly in and around the Torres Strait, at times it was like rush hour. At 1 narrow part of the Strait, 1 behemoth was overtaking a smaller slower freighter while we were sailing in mid channel. The Captain kept up a congenial radio contact with us and the other with his intent and confirmation of position as he passed real close between us.

On the west side of Torres between Australia and Indonesia, we saw fleets of Indonesian fishing boats each about 20 m long and a penury crew of perhaps 15.

Big Indo wooden fishing boat

Jordan next landed a Spanish mackerel (very similar to the Sierras we would catch around Mexico) soon after we had finished off the Mahi Mahi. He did a fine job of keeping us fed with tasty fish!

At 1 point about 16 days into the passage, we were promptly enveloped in a squall with a deluge of rain and gale force winds from changing direction. In torrents of horizontal rain, with the auto pilot off, Jordan had to motor and hand steer keeping the nose into the wind. Thankfully, the temperature was mild for this short hour-long ordeal. Then amazingly the winds died right out.

Our landfall destination was a group of islands where we kept passing white sandy beaches teasing us to come and anchor which we tried. But every time, the anchor would drag and not hold (probably a slab rock bottom coated with a slimy seaweed). So we would have to move on...

Goodbye Vanuatu

Our stay in Vanuatu was not as long as we would have liked. We were late in arriving as we spent so long in New Zealand completing necessary boat jobs before sailing to Fiji, where we also did not have long enough to stay to see enough of the many fabulous islands. We would like to return to both these cruising areas sometime in the future.

As we were getting ready to depart Vanuatu, we summed up some interesting aspects of this very unique chain of islands.

For better or worse, the very real history of cannibalism provides a distinction unlike all others, and for us, conjured up images of bone-in-nose savages doing chanting dances around wide-eyed missionaries in the pot of which they were the main ingredient. As accurate as that statement is, the predominant and prevalent cannibalistic activity was perpetrated on their neighbouring villagers. This continued right up into recent history - the last known act of cannibalism here was in 1969.

In spite of this distinction, these unabashed denizens demonstrate the most insouciant and hospitable friendliness that made us feel so welcomed. They are very proud of their culture which has little changed in a contemporaneous world that surrounds them.

We had to admit though that the highlight was presented by nature. In particular, the Mount Yasur volcano on Tanna. Nowhere else will we be able to get so up close and personal to earth's hellish power.

And now, onwards to Indonesia...

Aore Island

We spent our last morning at Luganville (Vanuatu) running around doing the usual chores before leaving. But we still had 1 more stop before leaving the country. We quickly motored over to nearby Aore Island where we grabbed a mooring ball (S15°32.233' E167°10.827').

Moontide Resort

As dusk approached, we hailed a ride ashore by a passing dive boat. At the Moontide Resort, we treated ourselves to a nice last meal with Tim and Lea of SV Gemini Lady from Australia and spent our last Vatu, the currency of Vanuatu, on dinner. But we forgot we still had to pay for the mooring ball! With no Vatu left, we had to put the pittance of a charge on our credit card. We then hitched a ride back to Sea Turtle with Tim and Lea and spent a quiet night with no rocking or rolling on the still waters.

SS President Coolidge

Monday was Jordan's day for scuba diving the wreck of the Coolidge at Luganville (Vanuatu), as he describes below...

Diving the SS President Coolidge is supposed to be 1 of the best, if not the premier, wreck dives in the world. This, for a number of reasons. It is the most accessible dive, it is very intact, and it is in warm clear tropical waters with bounteous fish life. So it was a dive greatly anticipated.

First let me explain that this area of the southwest Pacific was a strategic staging ground for the Allied Forces that were battling the Japanese in the frontiers to the north in the 1940s. Luganville was sequestered as a safe staging port during this period. The Coolidge was a 200-metre luxury liner that was converted to a troop carrier. When, on October 26, 1942 it was entering the channel on the approach to Luganville, it hit 2 mines planted by its own forces that were intended as a barrier against possible Japanese vessels.

The Captain very quickly assessed the damage and determined it was a fatal blow to the ship so he wisely steamed it up onto the shore. It came to rest upright. He immediately ordered all hands off and not to dally retrieving personal effects. He told them they could come back later for their items. They all went over the side and virtually walked across the reef to safety. Of the 5,000 only 2 died. Well, within 90 minutes of running aground, the ship settled at the stern and slipped back and sank to its final resting place.

(For more information on this famous wreck, you can read The Lady & the President: the Life & Loss of the SS President Coolidge by Peter Stone.)

The dive operator picked us up at 08:00. As we loaded up the equipment for the short drive, Judy strolled over to the cafe for a day of internet catch-up.

A 10-km drive deposited us to the beach right in front of the sunken wreck. We suited up and I was paired with the dive master. We waded out about 30 m (100 feet) then began our descent for the benthic exploration. We did hand-over-hand on a taught rope that led the way down.

Descent

Soon the behemoth wreck slowly came into focus and I could plainly see it lying on its side (in 20 to 67 m) in silent repose. We levelled off at the bow in about 20 m of depth and about the same for excellent visibility. I noticed very little coral buildup but there were plenty of tropical fish.

As we swam along, we first came upon a mounted gun (76 mm/3 inch calibre) with its shells close by. We penetrated a hold where we could clearly see a motley cargo scattered and toppled about. Trucks, tanks, and even jeeps with their iconic grills were still noticeable.

Mounted gun

In the sick bay area, we saw the enduring remains of medicines and equipment. In another area, a cache of guns and ammo. But what were most striking to me were other somber relics of everyday life, lying as they were left as testament to the rapid abandonment.

Is this rifle salvageable?

On the way back, we did a safety stop while the dive master took out a bag of bread that signalled a copious amount of eager fish!

Dinner time

Clown fish in their anemone home

I made a morning and then an afternoon dive that day, but evidently only saw a small fraction of the accessible areas and compartments. The engine room would have been interesting or the porcelain plaque of The Lady. Endless opportunities...maybe another time on our 2nd go around...

Family visit

The weather was terrible at our anchorage of Luganville (Vanuatu). It had rained all night and the strong winds were still blowing, making our anchorage very rolly and unsteady inside Sea Turtle. Jordan wondered if he should cancel the planned visitation of the Paul family who had so graciously helped us in our time of need yesterday as it would be a very wet and wild ride in the dinghy.

After scanning the beach, he noticed an area where the surf was calmer and managed to safely transport the family in 2 trips with no one getting wet. Everyone seemed very excited, and after a tour, they were surprised at how 'homey' a boat could be. They had all noticed boats coming to anchor but had never been inside of one. Mr. Paul said this visit would be something the kids would never forget.

But Mrs. Paul was soon feeling a bit nauseous and Jordan returned the family to the more familiar terra firma. They gave us their phone number and we exchanged emails, with an invitation to visit or stay with them anytime in the future if we ever return to Vanuatu. Maybe 1 day...

(Our heartfelt thanks go out once again to the obliging Paul family!)

Unexpected surprises

We wanted to scout Espiritu Santo Island (Vanuatu), always looking forward to something new and interesting and the unexpected. It's the unexpected surprises that make some of our days the most memorable. So do we catch a rural bus, OR...rent a scooter!?

The small scooter we found had a governor on it so its maximum speed was 50 km/hr - much slower than what we are used to going. Our goal was to travel the 60 km to the end of the paved road at the top of the island at Port Olry and see what we could find along the way.

As we crossed a bridge, we were hailed aside and asked if we wanted to see the Ri Ri Blue Hole. There are 3 Blue Holes on Espiritu Santo. These Blue Holes are crystal clear deep pools, the blue colour of swimming pools and are up freshwater streams fed by springs through the porous volcanic sub-terrain. This particular 1 had been recommended to us.

An unexpected surprise was when the man offered to paddle us up the river in his hand-carved outrigger canoe to the Blue Hole, or we could take our scooter along a dusty road to it. It was a no brainer. We immediately decided to go in his outrigger, and as we had never been in 1 before, this was another first for us!

Shallow Ri Ri River

It was so peaceful being paddled up the blue river lined with lily pads and through the greens of the abundant jungle foliage. We listened to the soft gurgle of the paddle and avian chatter that seeped from the canopy and envisioned being miles and miles from civilization. Me Tarzan, you Jane. The stream they call the Ri Ri River came to an end at the Blue Hole. It was a wide and now more open circular area lined with jungle banks. It was literally the end of the stream. The pool was a deep intense blue.

Our paddler glided us to a set of wooden steps from the water leading up to a platform. A swing rope hung from a high overhanging branch out over the water. Jordan swam out, grabbed the end of the rope, flung it up to me (Jane) on the platform so that he could complete the scene with a Tarzan manoeuver and drop into the deep Blue Hole. What fun!

Tarzan actually does it better

Tarzan Jordan trying out the outrigger

But soon it was time for our return trip back down the Ri Ri River. What a great way to end an unexpected adventure with a hot sunny day and cooling blue water.

Our next stop was Oyster Island where there was a small eco resort. We first parked the scooter and then Jordan hailed the ferry boat by clanging on the loud gong made from an old gas cylinder.

Ferry terminal

The ferry was not what we had been expecting. It was a small, thatched covered, wooden pontoon boat with a bench on each side for passengers.

Ferry approaching with Oyster Island in the background

The friendly operator ferried us across to the Oyster Island Resort and Restaurant. The Island is named for all the oysters in the water and this 'off the beaten path' beautiful resort is fairly upscale. We learned that all of the bungalows were normally all booked in advance.

Now we don't usually include photos of a washroom BUT this 1 was so cute, clean, well decorated, and unexpected that we had to mention it. It was an 'open air experience' both indoor and outdoor with a roof above that opened onto a neat private courtyard. Why not...may as well enjoy your interlude.

Newspaper please!

We had a long relaxing late lunch looking back across the water to Espiritu Santo and the ferry operator traversing passengers. All of a sudden I noticed my helmet was missing! Where was it? Did I leave it back on the scooter? In the 'ferry terminal'? Would it still be there?

We once again boarded the ferry where we discovered that the ferry man had my helmet in safekeeping as I had left it as we disembarked earlier.

Next turnoff we made was to Champagne Beach described by some (don't ask who) as the most beautiful beach in the world. (Did they travel the world to find out, I wonder?) After bumping down a much pitted, dusty dirt road, we finally came to the sign indicating Champagne Beach was just up ahead. But we were unexpectedly stopped by a man who stepped out in front of us and demanded payment. In Vanuatu, land and beaches in most cases are owned by a family or village and they sometimes require payment for use or visit. Such was the case.

First he wanted 1000 Vatu (~$10 Cdn), then after calling out to another man off in the distance he changed it to 2000 Vatu (~$20 Cdn). A mild protest to the effect that we only wanted a quick look rendered no leniency. It was an outrageous price for a quick photo op so we bluntly said no and turned back. (We later learned there is a land dispute over the beach.)

But nearby we noticed a sign for Lonnoc Resort and decided to visit it instead. With the owner's permission - and no charge - we headed to the beautiful, long, fine white sandy beach.

Wow!

An Australian couple staying at the Resort told us that indeed Champagne Beach is spectacular and they sauntered over to it every day along the beach from Lonnoc, but now the tide was too high and it was getting late. Oh well, it's not like we haven't seen some spectacular beaches.

Back to the main road, we next inhaled the heady aroma of cooking copra (coconut). We stopped at the cook shacks - the source of the aroma - and talked to the worker of penury as he stoked the fire with coconut husks.

Jordan at coconut cook shack

Coconuts cooking

Stoking the fire

The smell was tantalizing and we were given a couple of delicious pieces to munch on - just like when we cook it on Sea Turtle!

We next came upon a group of hardy workers - men, women, and children - who were walking back to their homes after working in their gardens or copra fields. Everyone was happy and laughing and pleased to have their photo taken. Ni-Vans are such joyful people.

Take our photo!

Our last stop was at Port Olry at the end of the tar-macadam road (no road circumnavigates or crosses Espiritu Santo Island). The village had an indigent appearance and the few people we saw had a despondent air, unlike the so many we passed previously who would jovially hoot, holler, and wave.

We figured we'd better try to find somewhere to buy petro to ensure we would not run out. Jordan asked a group of men smoking and drinking in front of a house and they declared, Right here! One went inside, filled a 1-litre jug, and then filled the scooter. Problem solved!

Off we went to make a quick return to Luganville. We were still about 45 km away and the sun had set when all of a sudden the scooter unexpectedly quit. Lights still worked but it would not start. From Luganville to Port Olry, we had passed very few places to obtain help so had no choice but to start walking down the road towards a group of houses set off the road a ways. Thankfully it was a light-weight scooter.

We soon hailed down a passing pickup truck. The Paul family agreed that we and the scooter would fit in the back of the truck and they would transport us back to Luganville as they made a few stops along the way. We sat in the back, breeze in our hair, watching to catch fleeting glimpses of the fire flies. We quickly reached our destination with Mr. Paul's fast and efficient driving.

While the men were unloading the scooter at the rental place, I talked with Mrs. Paul and their children. Their daughter Lynn expressed a real interest in our boat and we happily agreed to have the family over for a visit the next day. They finished by giving us a ride back to the beach where our dinghy was waiting.

Well, it certainly had been a day of unexpected surprises.

Espiritu Santo

After a hair-raising departure from Malakula and an overnight passage, we arrived at Luganville on another Vanuatuan island, Espiritu Santo (S15°31.366' E167°09.956') at 09:00 on September 20th. Only 4 other boats were present. This was a very rock 'n rolly anchorage and we had to at times keep 'one hand for the boat and one hand for yourself' - a sailors' motto normally referring to sailing rough seas.

Our dinghy landing was at a beach shore of a resort, and with their permission to leave it there, we caught a cab to town. This was our first cab ride in Espiritu Santo and the driver unfairly charged us more than the norm. But he was the only 1 that tried that during our time spent here.

The main street of Luganville stretches a long ways, just back of the shoreline. Once again we were exposed to a very large outdoor produce market full of bright colours, homegrown goods, and happy locals selling their wares. We're always surprised at how large the fruits and vegetables grow on these tropical islands compared to back home in Canada. We forgot to bring our own bag to carry all our large purchases, but the lady insisted we take 1 of her own homemade palm baskets that are in great abundance throughout the market...

Back to Sea Turtle with basket of produce

Most people we found to be attired in a bit more contemporary clothing and we only noticed a few women attired in the Mother Hubbard dresses, especially in the market. Resources of Espiritu Santo are copra, cattle farming, fishing, coffee, cocoa, and vanilla. Tourism is a growing market.

Eye-catching flowers

Jordan booked with a dive company to explore on Monday the sunken SS President Coolidge.

Doggone dugongs

Weighing anchor from Epi at 10:00, we had a pleasant sail towards Malakula Island (Vanuatu) arriving 6 hours later (S16°28.107' E167°48.736') through a coral pass and reefs.

The lagoon inside the pass is home to several dugongs, a close relative of manatees. But dugongs are found only in marine environments and not rivers or estuaries as manatees can be, making dugongs the only plant eating mammal to be found only at sea. A large shy aquatic mammal, up to 3.6 metres (12 feet long), their diet consists of only sea grass and rhizomes. They dig up the sea bed with their flattened muzzles, and with only small peg-like teeth, chew their food.

They are known to travel alone and also in groups of several hundred. We spotted a couple of these mellow creatures outside the reef coming up for a gulp of air.

Once anchored in the lagoon, we launched the dinghy and donned swim stuff and quietly rowed towards where we saw them surfacing. We didn't use the outboard to avoid spooking them. Once we got close, we slipped into the water to try to get close. However the water was turbid so we were never able to see them below. We kept sighting along the surface, but each time we saw them surface it was always too far away to get near enough quick enough before they had moved on again.

Disappointed, we returned to Sea Turtle with just enough time to depart and get through the pass before evening dusk, making for our next destination. Anchor up, we started to motor out when we heard a sickening thump thump and Sea Turtle came to a full and secure halt on the rough shallows! With me at the helm, I had taken my eyes off the depth meter for a second and we were suddenly stuck on coral.

This was the worst possible grounding. It was soon to get dark but more distressful was it was high tide and a full moon (highest tide time) meaning that if we couldn't get off immediately, we would be stuck there for a  month or so until the next extreme high tide again, a full lunar cycle away.

Jordan quickly put on a mask and dove to analyze the bottom. Next he quickly lowered the dinghy and motor back into the water and attached a rope from the dinghy to Sea Turtle's bow sprit. I turned the wheel to hard port with Sea Turtle at full power while Jordan powered with all the might of the dinghy's 9.5 HP motor to try to twist her and pull her off towards deeper water. Slowly her bow swung, and a moment later, she slid forward towards safety.

Just about then, and to heighten the pandemonium, while Jordan looked back he momentarily let his steering wander. That produced a leverage of the motor against the pull of the rope and the dinghy tipped on its side throwing Jordan in the water. The motor, at full throttle now and turned sideways, tried to flip the dinghy again and again while Jordan held fast to the side. He was afraid of getting his feet in the prop as each time the dinghy tipped, the motor would lose its bite and come back down for another grip.

Jordan had the presence of mind to reach up at one point and grab the kill cord at the same time shouting at me to pull back on Sea Turtle's power as I was now coming up on him and the rope in the water. Whewww!!!! His quick thinking and maneuvering was successful!!!

As things slowed down in a safe middle channel, we got our breaths, raised the dinghy once more again to Sea Turtle's deck, then quickly made our way through the formidable pass.

All this to swim with dugongs, which we never accomplished...

Lamen and coconut crab

The rain came down in droves last night but with the sun shining in the morning, Jordan and I decided to cross from Epi Island to Lamen Island (Vanuatu) in the dinghy. We passed a few families in their outrigger canoes going in the opposite direction - from Lamen to Epi - to attend to their gardens.

As we approached the beach of Lamen, we were greeted by many high-spirited, exuberant children, all curious of our presence. One young girl agreed to take us to the Chief and the pack followed as they either asked us questions or answered ours. The beach was laden with beautiful Cowrie shells of the brightest colours we have seen yet - green ones, blue ones, purple ones, and even a few pinks. Of course we collected once again!

Upon greeting the Chief, we were given permission to stroll through the village and a Ni-Van (person born and raised in Vanuatu) pointed out a few places such as the school and community hall. He showed us stacked rock formations as a leftover custom that were the equivalent to a land title identifier or Deed for a particular villager and it was considered forbidden to sit or them. He assured us that now it is okay though. We saw several more as we walked throughout the village.

Land Title Deed of property

The huts were all very close together along the hard-packed dirt roads and throughout the village we could understand why these villagers needed to have their gardens (banana trees, yams, taro, manioc, etc.) across on Epi. We have never seen so many people in such close quarters in a village.

Close but happy

We met the school teacher who said the kids would really appreciate coloured pencils so we gave him several plus a few other items we thought the school might enjoy. The teacher was also pleased with colourful sticky stars to attach to a job well done. Unfortunately, 1 item we did not have was a soccer/rugby ball that a few kids had meekly asked us about.

As we returned to our dinghy, a few young boys were just returning from a fishing excursion in an outrigger canoe. It seemed like they had a good time but were disappointed at no big catch of the day. Islanders have such different priorities compared to other children in more well-do-do places.

Young meal providers

With a gaggle of kids yelling and waving goodbye as they splashed into the ocean, we departed for our return to nearby Epi.

Back on Epi Island, we had our first taste of coconut crab at a feast put on by the Lamen Yacht Club (this term here is used loosely as a simple seaside building to serve the visiting yachties). This was a huge crab with quite a nasty disposition that matched his looks. Its big pincer claws were very sharp and dangerous looking. The taste was different. Jordan described it as more earthy than typical crab. We were expecting the taste of having a hint of coconut but apparently they are scavengers and they eat what they can find in their environment, no doubt influencing the taste of certain ones.

Our last day at Epi had Jordan making a mark of 'bin there' by hanging our flag in the Yacht Club. We noted a sign stating that you can join the Yacht Club for 500 Vatu (~$5 Cdn) - can't beat that!

We were here

(The next morning saw the gathering of many of the villagers to the beach to get rides across to the little island community on Lamen to attend the funeral of an old villager...)

Unhappy day

Yellow flower

An early morning snorkel in the warm waters of Lamen Bay of Epi Island (Vanuatu) yielded a vivid site for our eyes of coloured coral and cute clown fish, among many others.

As we had managed to round up a group of 10 for a feast at Atis Jack's, we all congregated at the beach where Atis met us at 17:00. With Jack in bare feet, everyone followed him through the rough ground of the lush green rainforest of trees and vines up to the top of the steep hill where he has lived with his family for the past several years. (Many natives we have met throughout our travels prefer to be barefooted and as a result their feet are very tough and hardened.)

He walked us past a couple of his grazing cows to the magnificent viewpoint where we could all see our boats anchored down below.

View of the bay

Next we were presented with a beautiful surprise. Atis and Helen's daughter had strung together a yellow lei for all 10 of us and she hung them around each of our necks. I later asked Helen what was the name of the beautiful yellow flowers and she replied Yellow flower. She then started to giggle admitting that she had no idea what the name of the flower was, it was just Yellow flower. Simple enough, that works for us!

Our first lei

With benches and tree stumps in a circle for seating, we had been admiring the laid out feast on a simple wooden table covered with large banana leaves for an elegant and natural tablecloth. It tasted as delicious as it looked.

Bountiful buffet

Atis showed us how he makes fire by the old method of rubbing wood on wood and how he splits open coconuts. Afterwards, we imbibed the tasty, nutritious coconut water.

He also relayed several folklore stories, 1 of how Kava had been discovered by woman...

A woman sent to the bush by her angry man saw a rat chewing on a pepper root, then relaxing in a very contented mood. Upon awakening, the rat would chew some more on a root, with the same result. When the rat fell asleep, the woman decided to try the root and decided this would also make her grumpy man happy. Upon taking some home, her man quickly decided the root would be for men only!

Today, very few women partake of the Kava root in Vanuatu and on some islands, women are not allowed - not even tourist women.

After an evening of great views, food, and tales, Atis walked us all down the hill and back to the beach where we dinghied back to our boats, still wearing our beautiful yellow flowers!

Epi Island

As we slipped away from Port Vila (Vanuatu), it was a great overnight sail with a good easterly trade wind breeze putting us in to Lamen Bay at 07:15, ahead of our ETA. It was easy to find anchorage (S16°35.742' E168°09.815') even though we had to compete with the many sea turtles and 6 other cruising boats.

Surprisingly, Lamen Bay lies on the northwest end of Epi Island (not on the small Lamen Island watching 1.5 nautical miles offshore). The Island and reefs calm any ocean swells and the Bay is on the lea of the big island providing a relaxing and safe harbour.

Sea Turtle anchored between Epi and Lamen Islands

Epi's wide beach was unique in its varied colour. It started on the south as almost black sand and at the other end had phased into a light golden colour. Through the tropical trees, we could see a smattering of buildings and a windsock stating the location of the airport grass strip where the occasional drone of a small plane splits the paradisiacal peace.

As we walked the beach, the gentle slap of the lazy waves prefaced the village life. The beach yielded to our now obsessive compulsive shelling which has become as subconscious as our gait. We were greeted by the occasional convivial denizen with their usual questions like Where are you from? or Do you like Vanuatu? and were always pleased with our truthful affirmative answer to the latter.

Our return was along the road just behind the beach and along the various homes, the school, and other motley array of buildings. The palette of progress showed older traditional humble thatched huts giving way to newer concrete block buildings with pleasant colours.

Splitting bamboo for a traditional dwelling

Just before leaving, we met Atis Jack, a Ni-Van (a born and raised local). He was full of recondite lore. He told us that at 1 time there was no village here on Epi Island but the village was on the little island of Lamen out front. When their population grew, so did the number of pigs and consequently the ever diminishing good gardening on the little island was further deteriorated by the routing pigs. So they started gardening in the vitiated soils on the main island, making the 2-way passage almost daily in dugout outrigger canoes.

Over the years, some relocated to the main island, however there is still a sizable population on little Lamen. In many ways though, nothing has changed here. The outriggers still make their morning journey, and as the afternoon easterly breeze builds, with canoes laden with rich produce, they raise a rudimentary sail of palms to supplement their propulsion home.

Palm leaved, wind powered outrigger

Atis said that he and his family could provide an entertaining evening with a custom dinner, demonstrations of their cultural ways, and folklore tales of his people. It would cost 1000 Vatu (~$10 Cdn) each and would require a minimum of 10. So we agreed to round up 10 cruisers for the following night...

Sea Turtle fixes

On Friday the 13th, we had been in Port Vila (Vanuatu) over a month now so our solicitude for leaving was great. We were mostly ready to make tracks to new sites and discoveries. Sailors often say, partly joking, partly not wanting to tempt superstition, Can't leave on a Friday (much less Friday the 13th!) Our real excuse was the newly installed injector pump rendered the motor rough running, puffing smoke, and low on RPM and power.

For the installation, Jordan was concerned about timing the injector pump properly, and even though he spent a few hours on internet forums on the subject, he realized it would take some trial and error. So he now figured that the problem lay in bad injection timing and thus an adjustment would solve it. Now this was easier said than done.

The motor is very accessible, but the side-mounted pump hides behind cooling pipes, oil pressure lines, and is obstructed by the exhaust manifold. The engine coolant would have to be removed again, pipes disconnected, and hard to reach bolts backed before a MINOR rotation adjustment could be made. Then to test it, everything had to be reconnected, coolant replaced, and the motor started.

The first adjustment Jordan tried was in the direction he thought was correct. However this proved to worsen the situation. At this point he started to doubt this was the problem and fretted that it might be something else undeterminable by him. But again, he laboriously went through the exercise again, rotating the adjustment in the opposite direction.

Preparing himself for disappointment punctuated by frustration, Jordan turned the starter. All misgivings immediately evaporated as we heard the perfectly smooth purr of the Perkins motor. Power and RPM had returned to normal!

Friday afternoon we speeded over to Customs in the dinghy to get our required Cruising Permit for the duration of our time in Vanuatu cruising other islands.

We were kept busy Saturday morning with last minute 'to-dos' and a startling sight when provisioning at the market. We had seen fruit bats flying in the wild but never for sale as food - 2 for 1000 Vatu (~$10 Cdn). They are declared to be very delicious by Ni-Vans (persons born in Vanuatu) but definitely not something we would ever try!

"Holy hors d'oeuvres Batman"...

At 15:00 on September 14th, we slipped the lines from the too familiar mooring ball and headed out for an overnight sail to the northern end of Epi Island, about 80 nautical miles to the north from Port Vila in Efate.

Guess what!

Upon our return to Port Vila on Efate Island from Tanna Island (Vanuatu), Jordan received an email with an unusual subject line simply declaring Guess what we did, accompanied by a picture. Well, the delightful photo left no doubt...

Yes, Jordan's handsome son Aaron and his beautiful fiancée Deanna had eloped to the romantic beaches of Kauai Hawaii where Aaron played the song I'm Yours by Jason Mraz on his ukulele to his lovely new bride on September 4th. They then spent a fun and busy honeymoon in Hawaii. Check out their video link:

https://www.youtube wedding video

As Aaron welcomed me into the family, Jordan and I both whole-heartedly welcome the newest member, Dee!