Sunday, April 14, 2019

PANAMA San Blas

We had a relatively uneventful 7-day passage from Gilligan's Island of Puerto Rico to the San Blas Islands of Panama. We had wind on the beam and on the port quarter that peaked at about 20 to 25 knots as we passed about 150 nautical miles off the coast of Venezuela/Columbia. The waves were exceptionally high and steep given that wind speed and it made for an agitated ride for awhile. But the winds died and for the last 2 days we had to motor while the seas died down.

The pleasant sight of dolphins was noted a couple of times as well as a corona around the sun that was directly overhead. This was the first time I had ever seen this interesting celestial display!

Chanty could again hear nightly arrivals on deck of flying fish. Her highlight of the day would be fetching an early morning stinky fish breakfast off the deck.

We made an early morning arrival in the San Blas Islands where we chose one of many secluded small palm islands to shelter in. Our first order of business was to jump in the ocean for a refreshing swim to abate the heat. We walked the paradise island and found a couple of coconuts for breakfast but sadly saw plentiful plastic refuse that had washed up on the windward shore.

Daydreaming in paradise

These islands are part of Panama and the peaceful indigenous people called Kuna are allowed a certain amount of autonomy. They have been able to keep their tranquil way of life and habitat unchanged for the most part. They are proud of their culture and are eager to show and sell their craft, that being their intricate hand-stitched mola fabrics, throughout the islands and area.

Lola, a colourful Kuna woman with Judy

Perfect end of day

The next morning, just as we pulled anchor, a Kuna man stopped by in his boat to see if we were interested in purchasing any of his molas. We quickly reset the anchor and invited them aboard to have a look.

Venancio and his young helper Natalio started hauling molas aboard Sea Turtle. It was impossible to see them all, but after a period of time, we finally made our decision.

Boat-to-boat mola sales

So up came the anchor again and it was off to Islas Maqui. This was a very pleasant stop other than the pesky no-see-ums. Jumping in to snorkel the nearby reef, we were disappointed that we left the camera on the boat as we were not expecting much. So we missed getting pics of 2 large sting rays half buried in the sandy bottom and getting snaps of swaying purple coral, not to mention the intricate patterned GIANT brain corals!

Back on Sea Turtle, a local came by selling fish; we purchased 1 as our fishing attempts had been fruitless lately. When asked if he had any lobster, we were delighted when he pulled out 2 big ones for $5 each!

Low-tech sailing

Then yet another Kuna man, Victor, approached us asking for the $10 fee for 1 month for anchoring in the San Blas waters. Seemed strange but he did have an official receipt. He next asked if we wanted any mangoes or avocados and again we said yes, yes, and bananas. So off he went, paddling his dugout canoe.

When we realized he was heading to an island about a mile away we jumped in the dinghy and towed him there. We followed him into the jungle that acted as his orchard where we picked ripe avocados and mangoes off the ground while he whacked down a bunch of green bananas. He didn't want any money for it but we insisted with a few dollars.

Later in the day, we dinghied over to a little island close by where a few native's huts were their homes. There we met Victor again and his family and welcomed us to stroll their neatly kept beautiful island. They even gave us some lovely conch shells to take.

Munching a mango

The whole island was a coconut palm grove ringed with fine white sand beaches and protected by an outer reef that served them bounty from the sea.

Island tranquility

Back on board we finished a wonderful day over a delicious lobster dinner!

Next morning was our final San Blas stop at Chichime Island where we anchored inside the small lagoon. Later we went ashore where we found more molas, less expensive, but not as good quality in our opinion. We pulled out of there at sunset for an overnighter to Shelter Bay Marina near the entrance of the Panama Canal.

Chichime merriment


San Blas anchorages:
N09°28.862' W078°40.167' Apr 12 by Mangles Canal
N09°34.934' W078°40.463' Apr 13 Islas Maqui
N09°35.273' W078°52.877' Apr 14 Chichime Island

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