When checking in with Customs and Immigration, they required a vet to do a cursory examination of our feline crew member, Chanty. So we had to bring her in by dinghy, not always her favourite experience.
Are we there yet? (returning to Sea Turtle)
As trade winds rise over the hills, it's typical that the forming clouds give us a rinsing. The rain isn't necessarily unpleasant as temperatures are mild and the rain is usually brief. Once when we were on our way to shore in the dinghy, we got caught in an unusual heavy deluge that lasted about an hour. The one time we didn't bring the umbrella and we got soaked!
Bailing the bathtub
So we dried out over coffee and eats. I took this opportunity to try the Caribbean Breakfast which included: Chop-up (a mix of spinach, ocra, and eggplant), Saltfish, Johnny Cake, plantain, and a boiled egg. It was an excellent choice. (Recipes online!)
After chatting up a couple on a boat from Vancouver, they convinced us to go down to the south side of the Island and see Nelson's Dockyard at English Harbour. English and Falmouth Harbours, the latter a much larger bay, are side by side separated by a narrow bit of land. We anchored at Falmouth in front of a gaggle of super mega yachts, then strolled over to the quaint setting of Nelson's Dockyard.
Former shipbuilding storehouse, now historic hotel
As the name suggests, Admiral Nelson developed this secure port to protect and service his ships. The old buildings in this picturesque setting have been preserved and now this UNESCO site is a preferred port by the richest of yachts where they moor Med-style in front of coffee bistros, restaurants, and shops.
From displays in the museum, we could picture in our mind's eye Nelson's ships cairned on the shore, crews scraping the bottoms, and repairing the copper plating. We saw depictions of the sail loft that once sat upon the round pillars that still remain.
Ancient sail loft pillars
Here we also saw a sample of the 4-person rowboat that just won a trans-Atlantic rowing competition and where the 2nd place oarsman was due in that same day.
Row, row, row your boat
At Falmouth, a taxi delivered us up to an interpretive center on Dow's Hill. Are you going to the party this evening? he asked. What party? we said. He explained that it was up on a grand vista nearby, known as Shirley Heights, the venue for dual performances. The 1st was by the Halcyon Steel Drum Orchestra and last a Reggae band. A barbecued feast was also being served and of course well stocked bars. How could we not?
It was a great setting overlooking the 2 harbours below, where a Caribbean sunset supplemented a superb performance and delicious meals. We fell into a mood that made the 'rhum' punches irresistible and kept us going back for 2nds and 3rds and...well...more.
2 harbours: English with Falmouth in the background
Halcyon Steel Band Orchestra
Hear them play in our 2-minute YouTube video by clicking HERE or clicking "Grooving to steel drums" under "Other Links" on right side of this blog page.
Returning to Jolly Harbour up the west side of the Island, we did our official checking out of Antigua, but contrary to the normal required prompt country departure after check out, we didn't leave this nation right away. We went around the corner and anchored at Deep Bay to snorkel the wreck of the Andes in less than ideal visibility.
We scrambled up the knoll to see Fort Barrington, long since abandoned and defeated by time. Along the trail were the dreaded Manchineel Trees that are very toxic. You are warned to not touch ANY part of the tree or sit under it as a drip of sap on the skin causes extreme irritation. Heaven forbid if you tried to eat the apple-like fruit of the tree!
Seen better days
We sailed a few hours north from hilly Antigua to the low laying sister Island of Barbuda, catching a nice Crevalle Jack fish on the way and laid the hook in its brilliant turquoise shoal in front of an 18 km (11 mi) long sandy beach.
For me??!!
Barbuda was a marked contrast to Antigua. Any sign of habitation, a tiny village, was off in the distance and with few other boats, we felt a tranquil seclusion. We had the creamy pink beach to ourselves as we walked about half of it, collecting numerous shells.
Miles of lonesome
Further up the beach, we saw the remains of Lighthouse Bay Resort, another victim of Irma...
Only ruins left
Anchorages:
N17°04.473' W061°53.720' Feb 06 Antigua (Jolly Harbour)
N17°00.721' W061°50.065' Feb 09 Antigua (Carlisle Bay)
N17°00.950' W061°46.464' Feb 10 Antigua (Falmouth Harbour)
N17°04.365' W061°53.792' Feb 11 Antigua (Jolly Harbour)
N17°07.655' W061°53.213' Feb 13 Antigua (Deep Bay)
N17°37.238' W061°51.140' Feb 15 Barbuda (Low Bay)
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