Friday, November 16, 2018

Lanzarote

We made tracks from Isla Graciosa, 1 of the 7 Canary Islands, on November 9th in a light breeze coming at us on the starboard quarter.

After a few hours, our pace was quickened as we cruised down the west side of Lanzarote under wing-on-wing in an 18-knot breeze, past a bleak landscape sculpted by volcanic anger.

Great wing-on-wing sail

As we sailed in the rhythm of a slow rise and fall of 7-m swells with peaks the distance of football fields, we watched from a distance as their far-off journey crashed to an end against the jagged, black lava flow cliffs echoing a rumble like that of a distant train. A shipwreck on these shores would be unimaginable.

Sailboat in swells

After about 7 hours, we rounded the SW island point under the gaze of the tall, white Pechiguera lighthouse to a flatter sea and dropped the hook next to Marina Rubicon.

Prominent lighthouse

We dinghied into the port Marina that is sheltered by a long breakwater built in recent years. In spite of it being a relatively new development, the architectural style captured an authentic village ambiance. Eateries and upscale shops tastefully lined the esplanade making it a pleasant hangout for pedestrians and yachties alike.

We were looking for friends on board Danica who were in the Marina and on their way also across the Atlantic this season. (They are associate members from our home chapter of Bluewater Cruising Association.) The designated dinghy dock was on 1 side of the large horseshoe-shaped harbour and they were on the last finger all the way around on the other side. A unique layout.

The island's bleak landscape and geology has been sculpted by volcanic forces which is everywhere you look. Even the developments have incorporated the use of the ubiquitous blackened volcanic materials as effective features. The pleasant whitewash architecture stands in a happy contrast to the charcoal volcanic stones used for fences/divisions, facades, and in landscaping (small volcanic pebbles to surround trees and plants).

One day we enjoyed the leisurely, approximate 2-km, oceanfront walk from the Marina to Playa Blanca town. This concrete stone paved walk was bordered by scenic views, beaches, and convenient shops and restaurants/bars along the way. Playa Blanca, once a small fishing village, has retained a relaxed atmosphere through the low-rise development that now services the needs of the tourist.

Walking to Playa Blanca

There was a prediction of high winds from the south in a few days so we booked a spot in the Marina in advance. Having a couple of days before that, we decided to explore a small town on the northern tip of Fuerteventura, an island just across the strait (about a 1.5-hour sail from Marina Rubicon.

We then returned to Lanzarote and checked into Marina Rubicon for protection from the predicted nastiness.

Anchorages:
N28°51.573' W013°49.187' Nov 09 Lanzarote (by Marina Rubicon)
N28°44.267' W013°51.735' Nov 14 Fuerteventura (Corralejo Port)
N28°51.461' W013°48.967' Nov 16 Lanzarote (Marina Rubicon)

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