South Fuerteventura

Leaving behind Puerto del Rosario (Canary Islands), we headed further south down the eastern coast of the island called Fuerteventura to another port, Gran Tarajal. Arriving about 5.5 hours later, we were surprised to discover we were the only boat in sight at anchorage; all others were in the marina.

Masts sticking up behind the breakwater

After a calm night at anchor, we continued our southern jaunt for the beaches that make this coastline the major attraction. We first dropped anchor in the emerald waters at Playa Sotavento (Jandia Beach) that ran for miles. We pulled the dinghy up onto the beautiful beach and strolled the sand which was variegated with colours of golden and coral with dramatic seams of black interspersed.

Nice beach for dinghy landing

Sea Turtle anchored at Jandia Beach

We then continued in calm seas to another area, 5 to 6 nautical miles further to Matorral Beach at the point of land that turned west. There we could see wind-driven chop around the corner so we prudently stayed back and anchored in calm for the night; the next night we rounded the corner to Morro Jable for a quiet stay before departing to another Canary Island, Gran Canaria.

Our final anchorages of Fuerteventura:
N28°12.355' W014°01.866' Nov 23 Gran Tarajal
N28°07.519' W014°14.736' Nov 24 Jandia Beach
N28°03.179' W014°18.961' Nov 24 Matorral Beach
N28°03.171' W014°22.075' Nov 25 Morro Jable

Beauty and the Beast

When we awoke in the morning anchored at Puerto del Rosario (N28°29.588' W013°51.572' Fuerteventura, Canary Islands), Jordan said he wished it would rain to wash off all the salt from yesterday's blow. Be careful what you wish for!

All of a sudden there was a blast of wind from a squall and with it came torrential downpour. Sea Turtle was quickly stretched out on its chain and was being swung right around towards a small local moored fishboat (that we will call the Beast) and it became dreadfully apparent that it didn't have near the scope that Sea Turtle (that we will call Beauty) had laid down. We were quickly pinned up against the side of the Beast that was now rocking violently in the chop.

The Beast

We were both desperately trying to hold the Beast off but it was impossible. Jordan went forward to bring in more anchor chain to pull us away, leaving me to do the best that I could fending off the Beast with a big bumper.

The squall soon passed but not before leaving some battle scars. Claiming a victory, the Beast suffered only minor scrapes on its wooden rail but the teak toe rail of Beauty was damaged and 2 thick metal chainplates were bent inwards from the wild action. The combined power of the howling wind and the stormy seawater was unbelievable.

Battle scars

Finally secured but battered and bruised, we retreated below to a hot chocolate and cognac to warm our shivering bodies. On the bright side, the next day and another night was spent in peace and quiet.

Fuerteventura

Just before leaving Lanzarote of the Canary Islands, we received a photo from Don, crewing on Danica, who we visited at Marina Rubicon (see posting entitled Lanzarote and posted November 16th). Don snapped the following photo of hometown sailors and associate members of Bluewater Cruising Association, meeting halfway around the world.

Don, Jordan, Judy, Glen, and Mary

With a change in weather for more favourable sailing, we headed south across the strait to Fuerteventura (Canary Islands) on November 19th. Watching huge waves crashing over shallow reefs that border the harbour entrance, we could see why this is a very popular surf destination and when we were there the surf was definitely up. The seas were busy with paddle boarders, windsurfers, and kite boarders too.

We anchored behind the breakwater, beside the busy ferry dock of Corralejo Port, same as our first visit here 5 days ago, where the rocking of Sea Turtle announced the incoming ferry.

Like Lanzarote, it too has a volcanic geography. Unlike Lanzarote though, it has miles of sand beaches and even sand dunes.

Volcanic area of coast

With wind protection looking favourable, we moved down the eastern coast of Fuerteventura expecting about a 3-hour sail. But it turned out to be a day with a wide variety of wind and conditions.

The start was a pleasant downwind sail, but after an hour, the winds died. Then the winds started to build, but this time, right on the nose and eventually we were doing a boisterous tack to make good the distance to our next port.

At Puerto del Rosario, the nasty south wind was funnelling right into the harbour and we could see other anchored boats bouncing and heaving. On the commercial side of the port was a small projection in the jetty that gave protection to the large resident tug boat. Jordan came up with the idea of tying up and using it as a barrier from the wind and waves.

So I steered as if to T-bone the tug, and at the last minute as I reversed, Jordan quickly jumped off Sea Turtle onto the tug with a rope, secured her to its center cleat, and jumped back onto Sea Turtle's bow. The wind casually pushed us away and alongside the tug, making for a comfortable stay till the winds died down.

Tied to tug

Security quickly showed up wanting us to move. When told we needed temporary protection until the winds abated, they agreed to let us stay for 2 hours. And sure enough the wind calmed down just at dusk, and we moved around the breakwater into the anchorage and finally dropped the hook with the other boats at 18:00.

Our anchorages of Fuerteventura:
N28°44.315' W013°51.755' Nov 19 Corralejo Port
N28°29.751' W013°51.481' Nov 21 Puerto del Rosario tied to tug
N28°29.588' W013°51.572' Nov 21 Puerto del Rosario

Journey to the center of the earth

We had learned that another yachtie on board Oh!, from our home port and another Bluewater Cruising Association member, was in another marina up the coast so while Sea Turtle was safely tucked away at Marina Rubicon (Lanzarote, Canary Islands), we took a local bus up to say hello. They too are making the Atlantic crossing. We see almost no Canadian boats so to meet ones, especially from our home port, so many miles away is a delight.

The next day we took off in a rental car to see some sights along the length of the island.

Our first stop was at Jameos del Agua which opened to the public in 1966. (Jameos means openings and Agua refers to the pristine freshwater pond down inside the volcanic tunnel.) We entered by descending uneven lava steps, then through a restaurant in the ethereal grotto setting that overlooks the underground natural pond. The pond is unique also in that it is home to teeny tiny blind albino crabs, endemic to this location.

Reflections in volcanic pond

Further along as the overhead craggy canopy gave way to sky, healthy vegetation seemed to sprout from the harsh rockiness. A 100-year old palm lined a curved white area with a small man-made pool of intense turquoise blue water.

Contrast of nature and man

The famous local artist and architect, Cesar Manrique, was instrumental in making these cavities accessible, in the landscape, and creating a large auditorium within a large natural cavity that is now used for concerts and cultural events.

Next was the 3,000- to 5,000-year old Cueva de los Verdes (Green Caves). (It was later explained that they are called Verdes after the goat herding family by the namesake that discovered them.) These were actually lava tubes created by the molten liquid that flowed under the solidified surface.

Access was by way of an opening with large green ferns at the rocky volcanic surface, then by moving down the jagged path and steps. A required guide provided direction and an interesting auditory for the 1+ kilometer trek. (There are actually about 7 km of tunnels with at least 16 caves but this is the only part open to the public.)

Huge ferns before descending

The 'journey to the center of the earth' was by way of varying degrees of provided lighting that had us at times squeezing through tight passages and other times strolling in cavernous chasms. In past ages of conflict and piracy, local people used the tunnels to hide out undetected.

Dim tunnels

One larger part of the tunnel had been set up as an auditorium that could seat 500. It is there that an unparalleled naturally perfect acoustics is provided for classical music concerts. A dark black piano set the scene.

And the tour of the Caves has a pleasant surprise that has been kept a secret for 45 years from all of those who have yet to visit. Sorry, we won't spoil it!

Combining art and nature, it was onto the 475-m high Mirador del Rio, created, again by artist and architect Cesar Manrique in 1974 that hangs on the edge of a cliff. Through full height and width windows or from the balcony, stunning panoramic views below of nearby Isla Graciosa and the wide open Atlantic Ocean beyond. Inside you are treated to the flowing all-white and curving architecture where you can treat yourself to food and drinks.

View from balcony

Our final stop was at the home - now a museum - of Cesar Manrique in Haria Lanzarote (Casa/Museo Cesar Manrique). He lived here for only 4 years until, tragically, his early death in a car accident (1919-1992). Manrique created and designed his masterpiece home on lava fields where once again he totally combined art and nature and huge glass windows that invited nature in. He also had a separate studio where he painted.

Cesar in his studio (copied from internet)

Outdoor areas included several courtyards, terraces, a swimming pool, etc. Indoor areas included his own art, work of his favourite artists, furniture he designed and/or built such as lamps using shipwreck wood, a dining table, sculptures, etc.

Our favourite of the day: Cueva de los Verdes - highly recommended!

Lanzarote

We made tracks from Isla Graciosa, 1 of the 7 Canary Islands, on November 9th in a light breeze coming at us on the starboard quarter.

After a few hours, our pace was quickened as we cruised down the west side of Lanzarote under wing-on-wing in an 18-knot breeze, past a bleak landscape sculpted by volcanic anger.

Great wing-on-wing sail

As we sailed in the rhythm of a slow rise and fall of 7-m swells with peaks the distance of football fields, we watched from a distance as their far-off journey crashed to an end against the jagged, black lava flow cliffs echoing a rumble like that of a distant train. A shipwreck on these shores would be unimaginable.

Sailboat in swells

After about 7 hours, we rounded the SW island point under the gaze of the tall, white Pechiguera lighthouse to a flatter sea and dropped the hook next to Marina Rubicon.

Prominent lighthouse

We dinghied into the port Marina that is sheltered by a long breakwater built in recent years. In spite of it being a relatively new development, the architectural style captured an authentic village ambiance. Eateries and upscale shops tastefully lined the esplanade making it a pleasant hangout for pedestrians and yachties alike.

We were looking for friends on board Danica who were in the Marina and on their way also across the Atlantic this season. (They are associate members from our home chapter of Bluewater Cruising Association.) The designated dinghy dock was on 1 side of the large horseshoe-shaped harbour and they were on the last finger all the way around on the other side. A unique layout.

The island's bleak landscape and geology has been sculpted by volcanic forces which is everywhere you look. Even the developments have incorporated the use of the ubiquitous blackened volcanic materials as effective features. The pleasant whitewash architecture stands in a happy contrast to the charcoal volcanic stones used for fences/divisions, facades, and in landscaping (small volcanic pebbles to surround trees and plants).

One day we enjoyed the leisurely, approximate 2-km, oceanfront walk from the Marina to Playa Blanca town. This concrete stone paved walk was bordered by scenic views, beaches, and convenient shops and restaurants/bars along the way. Playa Blanca, once a small fishing village, has retained a relaxed atmosphere through the low-rise development that now services the needs of the tourist.

Walking to Playa Blanca

There was a prediction of high winds from the south in a few days so we booked a spot in the Marina in advance. Having a couple of days before that, we decided to explore a small town on the northern tip of Fuerteventura, an island just across the strait (about a 1.5-hour sail from Marina Rubicon.

We then returned to Lanzarote and checked into Marina Rubicon for protection from the predicted nastiness.

Anchorages:
N28°51.573' W013°49.187' Nov 09 Lanzarote (by Marina Rubicon)
N28°44.267' W013°51.735' Nov 14 Fuerteventura (Corralejo Port)
N28°51.461' W013°48.967' Nov 16 Lanzarote (Marina Rubicon)

Isla Graciosa

With the help of our Cruising Guide to the Canary Islands purchased in Gibraltar, we chose our first anchorage of the Canary Islands to be Isla Graciosa at the southern tip of Playa (Beach) Francesa under cool and cloudy skies (N29°13.027' W13°31.606') where we arrived November 7th.

This is quoted to be Canary Islands' most beautiful anchorage. Waves crashed on the reefs on both sides of the entrance to the anchorage where golden sand beaches welcomed us to the Canaries.

The islands here are fairly barren with an obvious geologically volcanic landscape which makes for great hiking and biking.

Jordan made the strenuous hike up 1 of the calderas but I decided to stay on the quiet beach. He said the hike was difficult as the volcanic rocks were constantly slipping underfoot.

View down to Sea Turtle from above

Descending the backside, he hiked over to the rugged west shore where the prevailing winds assault the craggy cliffs. There he discovered a blowhole. While looking down at the waves, a couple good ones gave him a dangerous close-up encounter, leaving him refreshingly wet! Check out YouTube for video (https://youtu.be/lCZ15HtTyuo).

The next day, we took the dinghy around to the small sleepy village port, Caleta del Sebo. A labyrinth of sandy streets separate the all-white, low rise buildings accented with mostly blue. Daytrippers were coming and going on ferries that cross from the further south big Island of Lanzarote.

Even a white dog!

Sleepy Caleta del Sebo

To Canary Islands

We said goodbye to the Med and Gibraltar November 2nd at 09:45 but not before taking advantage of Gib's cheap fuel. Heading out of the bay to the strait it was a nice sunny and breezy sail.

The exit strategy through the Strait of Gibraltar can be challenging (see our last post). We got some wise advice before we left that we should stay close to the north shore and head straight out before making the left turn. It feels counter-intuitive not to sail the straight shortest route diagonally across but we followed the advice and it proved correct.

We watched other sailboats that left the same time as us for the Canary Islands and they didn't know or follow the advice. We could see them fall far behind us as they headed out crossing the Strait right away on, no doubt a straight line they had plotted. One of those boats who probably watched us making good progress finally altered course to follow us.

Even though, we still had to motor-sail against a 2.5- to 3-knot current at times, beating into 18 knots of wind. Eventually we were far enough to bear to port and fill the sails for a close haul to round a point off the NW tip of Africa at 19:30.

Sailing off into the sunset

You have heard of things happening in threes. Well, our first during a stiff breeze, a staysail sheet block broke and the violently flogging sheet, narrowly missing Jordan, whipped the strata glass on our dodger so hard it blew a hole in it. (He has since repaired the broken block.)

Our second was when the autopilot mysteriously quit. It has been known to do this for no reason. It's like it says Okay, I just want a break. With several days ahead before landfall, having no autopilot was not a pleasant prospect. We have a wind vane, but in real light or no winds, it doesn't do the job. However, after shutting the autopilot off for 15 minutes and restarting it, it was back to normal.

Our third was when the GPS then quit! Our backup GPS was being repaired, plus we had ordered a new backup that had not yet arrived, so this meant we had none to work with our digital charts on OpenCPN. The solution was to use OpenCPN on another computer where thankfully the GPS worked. What next??!!

We have experienced a variety of weather: warm and sunny, chilly, dreight, and sometimes downright cold. What? you say. Well dreight is a Scottish sea or weather related word told to us by our friends on SV Tahira meaning dull and wet. We have had to run our interior bus heater for warmth occasionally, the first time we have done so since Chile, about 6 years ago. As we're heading south, we were hoping for and expecting warmer weather than this.

On a warm day

On a chilly day

On a dreich day

The trip was also a mixed bag of conditions that had us sailing only part of the time, then either motor-sailing or just motoring, the latter doing too much of. And the seas were jabbly. Another Scottish word from SV Tahira meaning uneven, disturbed.

No luck in catching a fish, but Chanty discovered one that jumped onto the deck during the night and the next morning she found it, albeit dead. She devoured it in ravenous consumption.

After a 5-day passage, we made our first anchorage on November 7th at 10:30 Gibraltar time. (The Canary Islands are 1 hour earlier so we changed our clocks to 09:30.)

Final days before Canaries

With memories of the Rock, we traipsed around Gibraltar taking in more scenes. From street level, we snapped a photo of the Moorish Castle high up above on the Rock (that we also visited during our time on the Rock).

Medieval fortification

An area called Casemates Square is very popular with numerous coffee shops, restaurants, high-end shopping, and of course regular tourist shopping. There are a lot of older buildings with history including the old police station.

Street scene

Old police station

We have noticed that Gibraltarians are very polite and always hit the brakes to let pedestrians cross, even when not at crosswalks. This is not so in many other countries.

Our new sails, a Genoa and staysail, finally arrived from Leitch and McBride and we were ready to depart Gib...

Hanging the Genoa

...but we had one more stop to make across the border in La Linea Spain. Once again we walked across the airport runway when the light turned green, then breezed through Customs with only a flash of our passports, and we were in Spain.

Judy in pedestrian crossing with green 'Walk' light

Our destination was to our favourite tapas bar, Carlos and Eduardos. This thriving 3-generation business is celebrating their 55th anniversary. Sipping our wine, sampling liqueurs, and enjoying our tapas, we watched as everyone was busy, busy, busy and so happy and friendly. We will miss this place for sure. Be sure to Google it for directions if you are ever in the area!

3 amigos - Jordan, Carlos, and Judy

We walked back to Sea Turtle in the pouring rain with full and satisfied bellies.

Chanty has a new friend. A beautiful golden coloured large dog! They chase each other up and down the dock and she bats at his nose. No claws though, just playing. Hilarious. Yet she hisses at other cats here and won't make friends.

The next morning, we were prepared to leave on passage to the Canary Islands, however the morning voltage reading was quite worrying as the failing house batteries were down too low. So for the sake of a delay of 1 day, we thought it best to bite the bullet and get new ones while we could here in Gib.

Jordan located a knowledgeable seller who had AGM deep cycle batteries in stock that would be a suitable replacement. Actually better in the sense that they are sealed and don't need topping up like the existing ones. It took most of the day and evening to do the install and top up the charge.

So our departure was in the morning to take advantage of favourable conditions to get through the Strait of Gibraltar. The current in the narrow Strait is predominantly eastward because the Mediterranean Sea evaporates more than what rain or runoff can compensate for. So westbound boats through the Strait can find themselves fighting an incoming current but they can also encounter severe chop caused by current over undersea irregularities.

To mitigate these conditions, the conventional wisdom is to head out to the Atlantic Ocean through the Strait at about 2 hours after high tide and with an east wind. Well, the weather window was now good for the passage to the Canaries - with the exception of a wind coming off the Atlantic through the Strait.

But we went for it, and finally sailed away from Gibraltar under bright sunny skies on November 2nd for a 4- to 6-day passage to the Canary Islands.