Monday, July 23, 2018

Otok Vis

The next few days, we moved a lot from island to island and bay to bay in Croatia.

We dropped anchor then stern tied to a tree for 1 night in the NE port (Vista Luka) on Otok Vis (Otok means island) just across the bay from the main town. Those yachts that Med-moored in front of the town were bounced around terribly from the surge created when the incoming big ferry swung past them.

The 2 charming towns, Vis and Kut, are side by side and wandering around both we found several old churches, narrow winding streets, and a fortified tower. Then there were the ubiquitous waterfront cafes, bars, and eateries as well as sidewalk vendors of fresh produce.

Cute Kut

Since the Stone Age, Otok Vis has been occupied by many different empires and countries including the Roman Empire, the Venetians, and Allies in the 2nd World War.

Ancient stone work

No foreigners were allowed to visit Vis or its surrounding islands from the 1950s until 1989 and boats had to stay 300 m away. Because of that, the old world charm hasn't been spoiled by tourist development. But tourists now have discovered it and even more so after the recent filming of the sequel to the movie Mamma Mia.

The next day, we had a pleasant downwind sail along the north shore of Vis to the western port of Komiza where we again dropped the hook. The wind really picked up later in the day and as our anchor was not well embedded, we decided to pay the fee of 250 Kuna ($50 CAD) for a mooring ball behind the breakwater for a much safer and calmer stay.

The appeal of Komiza is its old world charm and many facilities. Ashore we were immersed in the ambiance of the Old Town and harbour front that makes this town so popular.

Komiza cafes

Southwest of Komiza bay is a small island, Otok Bisevo, where tourists flock to visit the Blue Cave. This was our destination the following morning but we were soon to be disappointed when upon arrival we were informed the Blue Cave was closed due to heavy surge at the Cave's small opening.

So we returned to Vis and along its south shores where we found a safe narrow inlet to hunker down for the winds that were forecast. There we anchored and ran a line ashore attached to a large Danforth anchor wedged into the rocks to keep our nose into the slight incoming swells. We were vulnerable though to the gusts that came through hitting us on the beam.

Much of that night was spent checking for anchor drag and shoreline security under thunder and lightning, pelting rain, and strong gusts.

The next morning when the winds abated, Jordan discovered that due to the severe pressure from the night's wind on our beam that it had left the Danforth anchor with a bent shank!

Brutal bend

Our anchorages included:
N43°04.007' E016°12.260' Jul 20 Otok Vis (Vista Luka)
N43°02.402' E016°05.380' Jul 21 Otok Vis (Komiza, anchored)
N43°02.769' E016°05.151' Jul 21 Otok Vis (Komiza, mooring ball)
N43°01.390' E016°11.880' Jul 22 Otok Vis (small inlet)

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