More anchorages

Our cat Chanty likes to find spaces to sleep which makes it very difficult for us to find her sometimes. Can you find her? (If not, see farther below.)

Otok Zirje was our next choice for finding a suitable anchorage in Croatia. This island, only 45 minutes away from our last anchorage, has 3 bays in the popular area called Uvala Stupica Vela and we chose the far eastern of the 3.

Arriving early, we had a choice spot to anchor and stern tie to shore not too far from a neighbouring boat that had done the same thing. But as the afternoon drew on, the ever incoming yachts crowded in around us. When a big catamaran tried to drop anchor and back down into the tight spot between us and the other boat and run a shore line, he had a problem.

As he was bearing down on us, sideways, Jordan heard his motor alarm go off which he immediately knew was a stalled motor. Manoeuvring a cat with only 1 motor in a tight spot with an onshore breeze and drifting sideways was an incident about to happen. So Jordan jumped in the dinghy and with full power, pushed up against the stern of the cat enabling the captain to use the other functional motor to back up without hitting our bow.

It missed our bowsprit by about 1 foot, not that we were worried because it is so heavy duty but it would have done a job on the cat's hull. A rope had wrapped around one of the cat's 'paws' which they soon cut loose and re-anchored properly. The happy group insisted on presenting Jordan with wine for his quick action that saved the day.

After a quiet evening, the next morning we continued onward to another bay on Otok Zirje (Uvala Tratinska) where we anchored and tied to a shore tree.

We had 2 visitors. Our first visitor was a "market boat" with produce, bakery, ice, ice cream, etc. We only needed bananas but alas he was sold out.

Home delivery

Early in the afternoon, our second visitor was an official who stated that we were not allowed to anchor in this bay and must leave or take a mooring ball. We did not wish to pay for mooring, after all, we felt that we were safely anchored and not a danger to those moored, so left.

After about an hour, we came to Otok Kakan and discovered a bay full of mooring balls (Uvala Potkucina). We decided to drop the hook in a safe area, wondering if again we would be asked to hook up or leave. And sure enough we were. As it was getting pretty windy and we didn't want to leave, we asked for a deal and he gave us a mooring ball for 100 Kuna ($20 CAD) instead of the usual 150 ($30 CAD) for this bay and our boat size.

Recent anchorages:
N43°38.195' E015°41.565' Jul 29 Otok Zirje (Uvala Stupica Vela)
N43°39.795' E015°37.510' Jul 30 Otok Zirje (Uvala Tratinska)
N43°41.836' E015°39.756' Jul 30 Otok Kakan (Uvala Potkucina: anchored)
N43°41.648' E015°39.899' Jul 30 Otok Kakan (Uvala Potkucina: moored)

If you couldn't find Chanty in the above photo, here is her little ear sticking out, circled in black. Not a good place if we were sailing downwind as an accidental jibe would 'cat'apault her overboard. Then she would be 'cat'atonic. It would be a 'cat'astrophe. LOL!

Soline and Rogoznica

After being in the crowded small bay of Uvala Sesula with all the excitement of anchoring boats, our next stop was the total opposite.

Uvala Soline (N43°32.397' E015°58.655') is the larger of 2 bays at the end of a well-protected waterway on the mainland of Croatia. We bypassed the main bay of Luka Rogoznica and its village with the big marina and numerous mooring balls to find this nice quiet spot with lots of space to anchor for free with only a few boats around on July 27th.

The next day we motored around the point and into the bay of Rogoznica Village which sits on what was an island but since was connected by a 500 m long causeway.

We took on more diesel at the marina's fuel dock and washed down our deck that had accumulated a coat of salt from a ruckus ride a couple of days ago.

Across from the marina, in front of the Village where a number of boats were Med-moored, we noticed an exception. A lone sailboat sitting at anchor. So motored over and asked if anchoring was allowed. They said they stayed the night and no one said anything so we decided to stay a night too and dropped the hook (N43°31.679' E015°58.028').

Later we noticed a no-anchor sign but pretended we didn't see it.

Magic hour

It turned out to be a pleasant stay. During the day with hardly a soul in sight we walked all over. Past the marina and beach areas and out to the lighthouse point. Then at dusk, we ambled along the waterfront village street lined with the usual eateries and shops while being entertained by an open air band. As the sun went down, the scene came alive with the teeming evening strollers. Where do they all come from!

Candies galore

Our fine evening ended with the best seat in town - our own deck - watching the big round "blood moon" rise over the town.

More islands

Northwards from Otok Vis (Croatia), our guidebook showed several anchorages in a group of NE islands called The Pakleni Otoci (The Pakleni Islands). Uvala Tarsce was the bay of choice to comfortably wait out the predicted NW winds.

These rocky islands of scrub and tree cover are popular with naturists (nudists), and wasps! Actually Europe is not shy about exposing themselves whether it's on the beach or at anchorages where crews of adjacent boats swim and lounge in the buff with no one, including us, paying much attention to it.

To deter the onslaught of wasps, we hung our Waspinator (faux wasp nest) that we brought from home. It seemed to do the trick and we had only 1 or 2 that were brave enough to pass it and enter the boat to their demise as I could not relax until Jordan killed or evacuated them.

We wandered ashore through the rocky and jagged path and discovered a couple of restaurants but did not stay to try their fare.

After 2 nights, we moved east to Otok Jerolim, another of the Pakleni Islands, and anchored in the SE bay of Uvala Kardovan. Here we were a short dinghy distance from the City of Hvar with its fortified walls and citadel on the large island of Otok Hvar and we scooted over for supplies.

Hvar City and its citadel above

After about a 3-hour morning of motoring, we chose the very popular and very narrow Uvala Sesula as our next destination at the island of Otok Solta. We arrived early so easily found a spot where we anchored closer to the entrance and tied 2 lines ashore to keep our nose into the wind, all under the ever present incessant songs of cicadas which by now, for us, has become just "white noise".

Bumpers necessary

Here in the Med, with so many inexperienced vacationing charter boats, the entertainment while sitting at anchor is watching the anchoring antics of other boats. Lounging in our cockpit, we watched as the excitement started this day as novice captains and crew tried to anchor in a bottom already criss-crossed with other anchors and chains and then stern tie to shore in the now gusty wind.

Jordan came to the rescue of at least 3 or 4 boats in trouble when no one else seemed willing. They would rather gawk and stare instead.

The first incident was where they didn't put out enough chain and dragged down crossways onto 2 other boats (they apparently didn't have a bow thruster, an exception here). It was all hands on deck scrambling about with bumpers to fend off the interloper.

Then the next, who readily admitted that they didn't know what they were doing, couldn't figure out how to get another boat's chain off their raised anchor. So Jordan, in the dinghy, hastily educated them by attaching a trip line to their anchor then instructed them how to lower then retrieve their freed anchor.

Helping hand

The next got too far down into the inlet and was almost on the rocks. They had no bow thruster so Jordan used our dinghy to push their nose around so they could motor out. After he retrieved their line that they left ashore, they offered cash but Jordan refused and said that's just what sailors do.

No sooner had Jordan got back to relax in the cockpit when the next boat was in trouble needing help, so off he went in the dinghy. Again, it was a hooked anchor chain. After getting it freed, they willingly accepted help with lines ashore. They insisted on giving him a nice bottle of wine for his help and this time Jordan graciously accepted.

As the sun dropped, we decided to go ashore for appetizers at 1 of the 2 restaurants. By now, there were about 60 boats packed like sardines in the harbour so the first restaurant was all reserved but we got in the other. When we saw the sumptuous menu and specials, we decided to splurge and had a fabulous seafood sampler platter for 2 supplemented by the gifted wine we brought with us.

No valet parking

This time, our anchorages included:
N43°09.609' E016°22.472' Jul 23 Pakleni Otoci (Uvala Tarsce)
N43°09.466' E016°26.080' Jul 25 Otok Jerolim (Uvala Kardovan)
N43°23.569' E016°12.703' Jul 26 Otok Solta (Uvala Sesula)

Otok Vis

The next few days, we moved a lot from island to island and bay to bay in Croatia.

We dropped anchor then stern tied to a tree for 1 night in the NE port (Vista Luka) on Otok Vis (Otok means island) just across the bay from the main town. Those yachts that Med-moored in front of the town were bounced around terribly from the surge created when the incoming big ferry swung past them.

The 2 charming towns, Vis and Kut, are side by side and wandering around both we found several old churches, narrow winding streets, and a fortified tower. Then there were the ubiquitous waterfront cafes, bars, and eateries as well as sidewalk vendors of fresh produce.

Cute Kut

Since the Stone Age, Otok Vis has been occupied by many different empires and countries including the Roman Empire, the Venetians, and Allies in the 2nd World War.

Ancient stone work

No foreigners were allowed to visit Vis or its surrounding islands from the 1950s until 1989 and boats had to stay 300 m away. Because of that, the old world charm hasn't been spoiled by tourist development. But tourists now have discovered it and even more so after the recent filming of the sequel to the movie Mamma Mia.

The next day, we had a pleasant downwind sail along the north shore of Vis to the western port of Komiza where we again dropped the hook. The wind really picked up later in the day and as our anchor was not well embedded, we decided to pay the fee of 250 Kuna ($50 CAD) for a mooring ball behind the breakwater for a much safer and calmer stay.

The appeal of Komiza is its old world charm and many facilities. Ashore we were immersed in the ambiance of the Old Town and harbour front that makes this town so popular.

Komiza cafes

Southwest of Komiza bay is a small island, Otok Bisevo, where tourists flock to visit the Blue Cave. This was our destination the following morning but we were soon to be disappointed when upon arrival we were informed the Blue Cave was closed due to heavy surge at the Cave's small opening.

So we returned to Vis and along its south shores where we found a safe narrow inlet to hunker down for the winds that were forecast. There we anchored and ran a line ashore attached to a large Danforth anchor wedged into the rocks to keep our nose into the slight incoming swells. We were vulnerable though to the gusts that came through hitting us on the beam.

Much of that night was spent checking for anchor drag and shoreline security under thunder and lightning, pelting rain, and strong gusts.

The next morning when the winds abated, Jordan discovered that due to the severe pressure from the night's wind on our beam that it had left the Danforth anchor with a bent shank!

Brutal bend

Our anchorages included:
N43°04.007' E016°12.260' Jul 20 Otok Vis (Vista Luka)
N43°02.402' E016°05.380' Jul 21 Otok Vis (Komiza, anchored)
N43°02.769' E016°05.151' Jul 21 Otok Vis (Komiza, mooring ball)
N43°01.390' E016°11.880' Jul 22 Otok Vis (small inlet)

Uvala Luka (Korcula)

We arrived early to our next Croatian stop, the small bay of Uvala Luka, at the attractive island of Otok Korcula and anchored in 15 m on July 18th (N42°57.212' E017°08.498'). It looked crowded when we came in, but as the day progressed, more and more boats wrestled their way in until the sun went down.

We had never seen that many anchored in a bay before! One boat was only a few feet away from us. Boaters answer to such congestion is they put out about half a dozen bumpers on each side. If this is the bay where a fee is charged, what were the other bays like nearby, we wondered.

The most interesting place was a short walk, with SV Breakaway, along the shore and breakwater to the Old Town. It had the usual narrow lanes, eateries, and shops, but we thought the shops weren't selling as much of the usual touristy items as previous Old Towns.

Old Town

The Croatians here in Korcula claim that it's the birthplace of Marco Polo within the Old Town, much to the chagrin of the Italians who claim his birthplace is Venice.

Marco Polo haunt

Upon leaving Old Town, we noticed a restaurant sign stating Eat Like A Local so we decided to give it a try. When we asked for a menu, our friendly waiter claimed he was the menu and stated the daily fare. We ordered the sea bass and a bottle of the local wine which was presented with a free shot glass of homemade Grappa for each of us. All was delicious except Sue had an aversion to the Grappa (to Allan's delight who then downed her share!)

Skver Restaurant with Jordan, Allan, Sue, Judy

Wanting to escape the pack and the fee, the next morning we moved a short distance to another cove, Uvala Banja. Here, we were the only boat anchored till 1 other joined us later. And no fee. Go figure.

Trstenik

With strong northerlies predicted by our Windy app, we pre-empted them by heading up the coast of Croatia and soon anchored at the small village of Trstenik in the protection of a hook on the mainland of Croatia on July 16th (N42°54.998' E017°24.029').

The harbour has room for a very small number of yachts, and at 1 point, there were also 3 large tourist boats tied to each other at the dock.

Jordan climbed the adjacent hill and snapped a few photos of Sea Turtle, Breakaway, and the other yacht anchored.

Village in the Med

Vineyards covered the hillsides and the product was offered on the menus or at wine tasting spots in the peaceful village. We strolled past small fishboats on the pier, bathers sunning on the pebble beach, and past an abundance of beautifully coloured flowers that all created an ambiance of tranquility.

Bright pinks

Pale oranges

Fish nets and boats

The weather prediction was accurate. Winds with strong gusts and heavy rain howled through the rigging as thunder and lightning intensified the foreboding night. One of the 3 boats dragged out of the harbour and they had to come back and re-anchor.

World Cup excitement

Our choice of our next anchorage wasn't how protected it was as much as whether it had bars or restaurants that would show the FIFA World Cup soccer finals that Croatia had made it to.

Our cruising guide indicated that the pleasant small bay of Slano Neoprobic (N42°47.166' E017°53.144') would be a good place for the big day to watch Croatia battle France. It was the first time that Croatia had made it to the finals and the place was going crazy.

We could hear the loud music and fireworks that was revving up the enthusiastic early village celebrants as they gathered for viewing the event on television screens everywhere, indoors and out. By making a reservation for dinner earlier, we got a choice seat. Everyone was dressed in red to support their team and we also wore as much red as we had to show our support for the home team.

Even though the crowd favoured Croatia, it was France that was statistically favoured to win. The cheers were explosive when Croatia scored and groans when France scored or Croatia missed a goal. In the end, the predicted stats proved accurate and it was France 4, Croatia 2.

But Croatians took it in stride, glad that they had at least made it to the finals and cheered for France when they took the Cup on stage. The party petered out many hours later.

Ruby reds

It is your response to winning and losing that makes you a winner or a loser. Quote by Harry Sheehy

Dubrovnik

Dubrovnik, with its main attraction being the medieval Walled City, was only a few miles away from our anchorage at Cavtat Croatia. By now, we have seen many Old Towns, forts, and castles but the one at Dubrovnik was different in that you could walk completely around on top of the perimeter fort walls. We went bright and early by bus and beat the stifling crowds in the stifling heat.

The stone-laid path is almost 2 km long and has over 1,000 steps going up and down throughout, with many fabulous views of the crowded buildings below and out past to the Adriatic Sea.

A sea of terracotta roof tiles

We continued to the uppermost tower for the best view.

Us on top

We walked past several churches, museums, fountains, palaces, and a couple of open squares, to name a few. Restoration work is being continued from the Serbia attacks of '91 and previous earthquakes. Did you know the Walls were used in the filming of Star Wars, Robin Hood, and the popular TV series Game of Thrones.

Walking the Walls

Old City buildings below

Record number of visitors in 1 day was 10,338!! The mayor wants to curb the number of visitors that over-run the Walled City by spacing out the numerous cruiseship and tourboat visits.

Inner harbour

The next day we motor-sailed past Dubrovnik for a different vantage point...

Approximately N42°38.225' E018°06.590'

...and soon anchored at Luka Zaton (Port Zaton) where we spent a quiet evening visiting with SV Breakaway after dinghying ashore for a short walkabout (N42°41.980' E018°02.649').

CROATIA Cavtat

Our 1-month cruising permit for Montenegro was almost up, and given a break in the predominant north wind, it was time to head off to Croatia. This allowed a few hours of reading time on the passage, but how to escape the hot sun beating down??

Shady Captain

Our last stop though was for fuel at Herceg Novi and then our first stop in Croatia was the picturesque and very busy check-in port of Cavtat where we tied up alongside anchored SV Breakaway across from the Customs dock (N42°34.925' E018°12.707').

The mega yachts Med-moored here made us feel like the little fish in the big pond and the prices placed us at the bottom of the food chain!

Top of the food chain

After checking in and paying our fees for a 1-month cruising permit (just over $300 CAD), we motored around the corner to Cavtat Tiha Uvala where we anchored on July 11th (N42°35.085' E018°13.149'). Tiha Uvala means Quiet Cove but there were several boats coming and going...but it was much quieter than the constant boat traffic of the Customs dock!

Cavtat was at one time a fortified island but most of the walls have disappeared with time, however the small Old Town with the ubiquitous tolling bell tower, churches, and narrow alleys has endured. The island has been joined to the mainland making it ideal for strolling the scenic perimeter walkway under the shade of pine trees.

If the shaded walk didn't do enough to ease the 30° heat, the numerous ice cream vendors did. They are kept busy and our toughest chore of the day was deciding which flavour to choose from. Lavender, Pistachio, Triple Chocco, or Yogurt Honey? Or Caribbean Black, Snickers, or Kinder Bueno? Or the usual standbys of Chocolate, Strawberry, Vanilla?

A previous hot walk in Kotor with Renato and Caci (not shown) *

Everyone who passed us by had the same thought. And once again several hardy swimmers were enjoying the cool but clear blue Med waters. But Chanty preferred to ride in the dinghy!

2 buddies cruising

Beautiful Cavtat sunset

* (During our stay at Kotor Montenegro, we enjoyed our visits with new friends Renato and Caci aboard SV Pharea. They are heading the opposite direction of us and we will remember them and pup Bella with fondness. Cheers!)

Tour time

Jordan and I, with his brother Tory and fiancee Lynne, toured Montenegro's mountainous interior in a rented car on July 5th. The roads at times were very narrow and windy with many many switchbacks and along the steep slopes, providing gorgeous views of the scenery and people.

Where eagles soar

Traditional Montenegrin dress

The first stop on our list was a mausoleum in Lovcen National Park. It was built on a mountain pinnacle and dedicated to Petar II Petrovic-Njegos, a Montenegro hero. We drove up as far as the road could take us, then climbed 461 stairs, parts of which were through a tunnel and up where the structure was perched on the apex ridge. At 1,657 m above sea level, we were literally in the clouds.

Granite guards of the crypt

Next up was the Ostrog Monastery. Built in a shallow but wide cave in the side of the mountain, the building looked like it was plastered onto the vertical face. The drive to the Monastery was, once again, outstanding with switchbacks and narrow roads (at times, one car width) carved into near vertical mountain sides.

Built into the mountain cliff

And finally we drove towards the Tara Canyon. (Parts of the Canyon are, apparently, the second deepest in the world with the Grand Canyon of USA being the deepest.) The drive there was once again outstanding as we passed through mountainous pine forests, scrub bush, and alpine meadows with cottages having steep roof lines for winter snow.

Peaceful alpine

We never found the actual Canyon but found the concrete Tara Bridge that crosses over an emerald coloured river.

Tara Bridge

Using cell phone GPS, we determined we could make it back to Sea Turtle even though it would be after dark. It was a day well spent and much enjoyed.

We enjoyed the unusual visit of a dolphin while anchored in the Bay of Kotor before saying goodbye to our company, Tory and Lynne.

A loner

Kotor and company

On July 1st, Jordan's brother Tory and his fiancee Lynne arrived for a one-week visit on board Sea Turtle in Montenegro. Previously we had become acquainted with most parts of these inland seas so we knew the better places to show them. Risan and Perast and the 2 small islands in front of Perast were worthy of a second visit and of course Kotor with the Old Town and fort.

Tory and Lynne enjoying the dinghy at Risan

Beautiful pink blooms of Montenegro

As Lynne and Tory climbed up the fort steps and toured around the Old Town fortification (we did that climb before), Jordan and I hiked up the adjacent Ladder of Kotor (aka Ladder of Cattaro), a trail built hundreds of years ago to connect Kotor to the interior of Montenegro. It comprises of 70+ switchbacks and is built at a constant grade.

I turned around part way as it was way too far and way too hot out for me but Jordan continued to the top plateau, about 450 m above sea level - almost twice the height of the top of the old fort summit.

Ancient road

Jordan said it was a similar trail that he once took down the Grand Canyon of USA, but not as long, and with panoramic views.

Kotor fortifications

Finally the strong katabatic winds abated and we were able to hoist our anchor and head to Kotor at the far southeast of the Gulf of Kotor of Montenegro. We took the long path as we cruised all along the coastline checking out the smattering of small towns and villages and depths for possible future anchorages.

We anchored with a few other sailboats close in, near the main pier (N42°25.396' E018°45.967').

The Old Town of Kotor is a centuries old fortified city built by various occupations of ancient controlling cultures of the area. The town has the water's edge at the front and a steep mountain face right up against the back. The fort walls not only encircle and encompass the town at the water but the walls run up one side of the mountain ridge, over the top, and down the other side to complete the circle.

Ashore, we meandered the well preserved Old Town alleys and shops worthy of the recent UNESCO designation.

Luminous lamps for sale

Then we tackled the climb up the switchback steps, past the little church part way, and finally made it to the top, all within the fortified walls. The length of the ascending 1,350 very narrow and rugged stairs and zigzagged paths is 1,200 m that delivers you to the top of the mountain at 266 m above sea level.

Judy on stairs

The amount of stonework to complete the fort and these walls is astonishing, with some walls 20 m high.

Walls and fort buildings with people hiking up

The view of the bays from the top definitely made the climb worthwhile.

Kotor and bays

Switchbacks and Old Town

2 of us at top

From Sea Turtle, we could see the church and path we hiked on the left with an inaccessible portion of the fort walls on the right, and Kotor lit up below along the waterfront.

Fort at night

Simply amazing.