Rough ride to Sicily

After pulling anchor from Otrano Italy, we were now heading to Sicily on a 2-day passage. The winds were predicted first from the north, then by the time we would be crossing the large bay that you would call the arch of the boot of Italy, the winds were predicted from the northwest at 15 to 20 knots.

Well, when we pulled out of the anchorage, we saw about 25 knots right away. So that was no problem. A nice downwind run and being that it was on a point we expected a little stronger winds there.

Storm on horizon

Then as we rounded the heel and started to cross the big bay, the winds started to increase. All day and night they gradually kept building as did the seas. At first, we double reefed, then triple reefed the main and flew a smallish staysail, and still had a hard time keeping Sea Turtle under 7 knots on the broad reach, which is fast for our boat.

Jordan didn't want to run with it as it would put us further out to sea, and the strategy was to just make it across that 1 area and then into a calming lee situation.

The last adjustment to the sails were easing the halyard and boom vang, putting a sag in what little rag of the triple reefed main there was to de-power it. After that, it would be either heaving-to or running with bare poles and the drogue if necessary.

The nasty seas were steep and at points the boom was skimming the tops of the waves as we were bucked. We knew that that was a recipe for a broken boom as Jordan had learned from Tony Gooch (he had done exactly that while he was doing his round the world passage).

In the wee hours of the morning as we were almost across that big bay, closing in on the far point, it was there that the wind and seas were at their strongest, a good 40 knots sustained. All of a sudden, we heard a bang and the boat heaved in the opposite direction!

A big wave had kicked our butt around to the point that the auto-pilot got confused and allowed an accidental jibe. The boom, with that small rag of a sail, flew across hitting the running backstay with such force it broke its snap shackle and left the backstay whipping in the wind.

The other unfortunate and totally avoidable incident was when a large wave crashed over the decks, a large portion of which surged under the lashed down dinghy and into the slightly open hatch there. It came in as a bucket full, soaking the Pullman mattress, bedding, and pillows full of towels, dishcloths, tea towels, etc.

As always, there is an end to the drama and so it was that as soon as we made it past the point, things calmed down just as the sun came up. A new dawn in both respects.

Eventually the winds died out during the day and it was back to motoring. As we neared Sicily, we saw the orange sun sink behind Mount Etna, very evidently still an active volcano with its spewing smoke.

Where's there's smoke, there's fire

Motoring that night eventually gave way to sailing until at about 08:00 we pulled into Syracuse on the southeast coast of the island of Sicily (Italy).

As we entered the large bay and before anchoring, Jordan spent time at the bow swapping anchors, replacing the always used but now bent CQR for the standby Bruce.

Nearing Syracuse

Once securely anchored in the large protected bay close to town and we caught our strength, we headed to shore to check it out...

Passage from Otrano to Syracuse Aug 27 to 29
N37°03.573' E015°16.910' Aug 29 Syracuse (Sicily, Italy)

Heading south - Otrano

After visiting Venice, there was only 1 direction for us to go and that was south back down the Adriatic Sea but this time along the east coast of Italy where favourable ports are rare. So we did a 3-day nonstop to Otranto, almost at the bottom of the heel of Italy.

It was motoring in almost no winds for almost all the way, then 20 nautical miles from Otranto, the winds kicked up smacking us right on the nose. But we persisted and were rewarded with a nice little harbour in the lee of the winds.

Little was mentioned about this town in our guidebook, but we found it a surprisingly cool little place. It still has some old fort walls and structures but there was no mention of the Old Town within those walls.

Old Town hidden behind doorway circled below

Exploring Old Town, we discovered a large cathedral that had Roman mosaics covering the floor with The Tree of Life as its theme.

The Tree of Life

Close-up

In the lower level were dozens of marble support columns where lighting accentuated the 4-sided vaulted ceilings between...

The other discovery was dark chocolate ice cream, a much richer taste than simply chocolate!

The popularity of Otranto was not only for the character of the Old Town but also for swimming in the tepid waters and sunbathing on the little swaths of beach sand around the bay which were packed while we were there. Swimmers paid little attention to the coming and going of small boats.

Watch out for boats!

The first night was calm and peaceful, however, on the second night the predicted northeast wind came in early at about 03:00, sending waves right into the anchorage and giving us a restless last few hours of fitful sleep.

Calm before the winds

I made the boat ready for another passage while Jordan with jerry jugs shuttled fuel to the bucking boat. Then it was time to haul anchor. Jordan was concerned as he knew the anchor was on a rocky bottom. So he dove to see where the anchor and chain lay before we started to pull them up.

Back on board, he attended to the windlass on the bucking bows and I was on the helm taking directions from him as we tried to avoid snagging the chain or anchor.

We almost made it, but just at the last while the chain was almost straight down and taut, the bow heaved up and the anchor snagged, sending a sickening shutter through the hull. But then on the second heave, it came free.

When Jordan got the anchor up and secured, he noticed the thick neck of the CQR had been bent from the brutal force. However, now there is no question as to the strength of the rest of the tackle and anchoring equipment.

Two bent anchors to fix

So off to Sicily...

Passage from Venice to Otranto Aug 22 to 25
N40°08.933' E018°29.493' Aug 25 Otrano (Italy)

ITALY - Venice

We did an overnight motor-sail from Croatia, getting us into Venice lagoon in the early morning. Ahead of time we had emailed a reservation at 1 of the marinas and were given the coordinates for a waiting area. Once there, we radioed the marina and an escort dinghy came out to guide us through more channels to where we tied up to the wharf of Venezia Certosa Marina at 08:30.

Skirting the city, this was a basic and quiet marina costing 50 Euros per night ($75 CAD). It had all that we needed with nearby showers and toilets. It also had a full facility boat service yard, a hotel, and restaurant. But importantly, it gave us quick access to town by the very close wharf where the ubiquitous ferry boats (that act like buses) and take you to any part of Venice town.

After a quick shower, we jumped on the #4.2 boat bus that took us to the far end of Venice where we had to do the official check in to the country. We wanted to take our dinghy and even explore some inner canals but were told it would be illegal if not impractical which we realized later was wise advice by watching the chaotic marine traffic churning up the waterways. There were boat buses, ferries, boat taxis, boat barges, classic gondolas, and speed boats coming and going in all directions and speeds.

Approaching Venice

Gorgeous classic taxis

The 1-stop check in was again done quickly by the Police, leaving us free to spend the rest of the day to take in the sights of historic grand Venice.

But first we had a quick picnic lunch with wine on a bench under a tree. Yikes, half a day gone already and we hadn't even started to sightsee yet!

We walked for miles taking in the sights like we were in an enthralling maze. The streets were lined with shops everywhere for tourists and locals. We crossed over so many little arched bridges where boats and gondolas for hire were transitting.

Judy crossing over

Our path took us along the Grand Canal and over that renowned arched bridge that is distinct to Venice. We also strolled past the famous St. Mark's square with its amazing buildings such as the basilica.

Grand Canal Rinalto Bridge

Almost too many details (basilica)

Very Venice

After awhile, to give our feet a break, we hired a beautiful old classic gondola for a fascinating lazy paddle through the network of back canals. Our gondolier told us it had belonged to his grandfather, then his father, and now he continues the family tradition and paddles it through the canals with tourists.

Gondola for hire!

Paddling away

Gondoliers in Grand Canal

He explained that the buildings, most built years and years ago on wood piles, are sinking ever so slowly into the soft sodden soil. To exacerbate this problem, the water levels are rising and on the extremely high tides, many main floors of the old buildings and even sidewalks are flooded over. The tide range there is 2 meters (6 feet) and as he paddled along the back waterways we could see how the thresholds of some doorways had been bricked up and other undefended doors showed the obvious effects of water deterioration.

A deteriorating door

As well as rotting doors, we also saw the sad effects of settlement in some of the leaning towers throughout Venice.

Toppling tower

This is a very exclusive city where the historic wealth endures in the elaborate architecture and where waterways are the roads and alleys that adds to its uniqueness.

This is a romantic city and we experienced it on a romantic day, our 14th anniversary, celebrated by dining on the Canal front as gondolas reflected the late afternoon sun's golden hue.

Venezia Certosa Marina:
N45°25.766' E012°22.648' Aug 21 (waiting area)
N45°26.202' E012°22.408' Aug 21 (Marina wharf)

Rovinj - last and best

Our last Croatian port of call was the lovely Rovinj on the mainland (N45°05.695' E013°38.090').

Approaching Rovinj

After taking on fuel, we anchored in a close cove then headed in for the officialdom of checking out of the country. (Croatia is in the EU however it is not in the Schengen group so there is somewhat of a border control.)

Colourful cove

As required, we had attendance at the Port Authority office then it was down to the Police (they primarily handled passport control) where we found a locked door. After head scratching, we thought it best to sit out of the 35°C heat, at a cafe right close, having an iced coffee, and watch for the boys in blue to return. As we were googling their office hours, we just happened to see them having coffee also, 2 tables away! Their process was very quick and simple and at no cost (well, just coffee).

With a few hours to spare, we explored the old town, charmed by artsy shops tucked into the nooks of the quaint labyrinth of narrow lanes.

Ambling the alleys

Her private patio

We were delighted with a fresh produce market in the square where we sampled and bought some exquisite truffle pate. And then it was a little people watching from one of the many romantic eateries and cafes that lined the inner harbour.

Marvellous market

Inner harbour

We loved Rovinj and voted it our Croatian favourite - it was such a pleasure that the last stop was the best!

But it was time to go. All checked out, we lifted anchor at 20:30 on August 20th for an overnight to Venice Italy!

Picking up the pace to Pula

When we were doing some basic passage planning (ie. to Canary Islands, the jumping off point to cross the big pond), we realized that we should stop putzing around so much and start making some good distances. And having seen enough of Croatia, we were anxious to head over to Venice Italy and beyond.

So moving with a little more purpose, our first overnight stop after leaving Zadar was at Otok Losinj in Luka Balvanida, still in Croatian waters. The bay we picked was quiet with only a few boats. Snorkelling, we found the water was actually quite warm again and were surprised to find schools of fish we could swim through.

A rare sight in the Med

The next day had us passing an impressive lighthouse, Hr Porer, on a rock island which marks the dangers of rocks and shallows off the southern tip of the Istrian peninsula.

Hard to miss

We then dropped anchor in front of a former Yugoslavian city that now belongs to Croatia called Pula. A close friend told us he lived the first few years of his life here so we wanted to make a point of stopping there.

This large city of Pula is in the county of Istria on mainland Croatia. Its pride is the well-preserved 2,000 year old Roman amphitheater (called the Arena) that could hold 20,000 spectators, no longer hosting bloodthirsty gladiator fights but instead concerts, operas, and film festivals.

Amphitheater from the water

If ghosts could talk

It is visited by almost half a million tourists annually! It is not unlike the famous coliseum in Rome where it has the tall arched and columned perimeter walls. You can also see remnants of the different rooms and chambers around the center fighting ring where animals and fighters prepped for their fate.

180° view

Yep, that's us

When we first entered the large harbour, it was immediately evident that Pula's major economy was driven by its large shipyard flagged by a hoard of ginormous cranes where evidently it was doing a wide range of marine projects.

Serious shipyard

There was a hulk that looked like maybe a huge freighter taking form on the ways, a newly completed oil platform, a tanker close to completion, and even what quite possible will be the world's largest mega yacht well on to completion.

Anchorages:
N44°29.531' E014°30.073' Aug 18 Otok Losinj (Luka Balvanida)
N44°52.942' E013°50.564' Aug 19 Istria (Luka Pula)

Return to Zadar

Well, after 5 anchorages past mainland Zadar and 9 days later, we found it necessary to return to Zadar (Croatia) where we dropped the hook once again (N44°07.484' E015°13.337'). Our pussycat, Chanty, needed to have a Rabies Titer Test done well in advance in order to travel outside of the European Union and to many of the countries in the Caribbean. (This was also the case before we left from Malaysia to Europe but now she must have it done again for the Caribbean.)

With Zadar being a large center, we could get this test done there. The vet we found was qualified and knowledgeable of the procedure and process which was drawing of a blood sample and sending it off to an approved lab. Travelling with a pet has its complications and restrictions but it's worth it for the enjoyment of their company.

A curious discovery: When the vet shaved a small portion of fur on Chanty's leg to stick the dreaded needle in to draw blood, we noticed her skin was black below the black hair and whitish below the white hair!

I think she's still mad!

We later visited Old Town once again where the early evening lights made it seem a bit more magical.

Can climb steps to the top

Zadar and more

Zadar is a large city on the mainland of Croatia with 3 marinas and supplies of all sorts. We dropped the hook just outside the breakwater protecting the inner harbour and Old Town and beside of 1 of the marinas (N44°07.498' E015°13.333').

From the end of the breakwater, pedestrians can take a shortcut across to Old Town via a rowboat taxi.

All aboard!

We were able to accomplish so much in just 1 day. Picked up the special glue needed to repair our dinghy, purchased a much needed new bumper, found a self-serve laundromat in Old Town where we did our own laundry, and Jordan discovered a cool new contraption to replace his broken boat hook that he uses for capturing mooring balls.

The easy-to-get-lost-in Old Town was quite delightful with its numerous narrow walkways and alleys. We could tell the oldest lanes by the shiny surface stones from centuries of traffic that now makes them easy to slip on if there was the least bit of water.

Entry to 'Kingdom of Zadar'

The next day was to renew our internet for 1 more month and extend our cruising permit for Croatia for another month as well.

With errands done, we strolled over to the oceanside esplanade to see, or should we say hear, an intriguing and award winning creation by a local architect. He has created a wind organ that is powered by wave surges that come from under the marble steps of the waterfront walkway. The effect is a haunting harmony to the slapping waves.

Click on the link below to hear the sea organ!!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n86pF-wQKrw

Steps of the music

The recent movie Mamma Mia! Here We Go Again that was largely filmed at the Croatian island of Vis was playing in English at the cinema so we decided to check it out since we were at Vis in July. We recognized many of the scenes including the steps in front of the bar where we had pizza.

After Zadar, we made numerous anchorages of little consequence. But we did find a sand beach at Otok Nin and Otok Olib, a rarity in the Med, at least from what we have seen so far.

While diving on the anchor at Otok Rivanj, Jordan had a curious spectator...

The unusual blues merging the sky and ocean at 20:30 just after sunset was beautiful at the teeny tiny rock island of Hrid Kurjak - next to Otok Olib - that we walked around and drift snorkelled. The only sea life that we could see was the abundance of sea cucumbers, if you could call them sea life!

A blue evening

Otok Olib has a small grocery store/market and mostly summer residences but not much else. Idle Olib it likes to be known as, and it certainly was. There are a few cars but they are only allowed on the few narrow roads in special circumstances. Otherwise golf carts or 'tractors' are means of movement.

Idling away the day

While we were there, the August meteor showers were at their peak, and as we had clear cloudless skies, we decided to sleep in the open cockpit making wishes to each shooting star. We saw several with Jordan spotting more than me.

Anchorages:
N44°07.498' E015°13.333' Aug 07 Zadar
N44°08.784' E015°03.339' Aug 09 Otok Rivanj
N44°16.269' E015°07.374' Aug 11 Otok Nin (Privlaka)
N44°17.413' E015°04.714' Aug 11 Otok Vir
N44°24.132' E014°45.592' Aug 12 Hr Kurjak
N44°24.949' E014°45.308' Aug 13 Otok Olib

Continuing through Croatia

After a couple of fun nights at Tribunj, our next stop was much different. It was at the peaceful cove at Tijesno where we anchored just off shore from a discrete resort.

The only entertainment this spot gave us was a lone sailor having great difficulty anchoring. He would anchor and then drag, re-anchor and drag, over and over. We counted 6 tries before he finally seemed to make it stick.

The bottoms typically have patches of weeds that you can see in the clear water that show as dark areas and then areas of sandy mud that show as a light blue colour. The trick is to not drop your anchor in weeds and try to "plow the field". Your anchor won't hold and you end up hauling up a bushel hanging off the hook.

Tijesno shore

The next morning at about 08:30 we motored only a couple miles to arrive just as the small drawbridge from Tijesno to the island of Otok Murter was to open. It only opens twice daily for half an hour at 09:00 and 17:00. The bridge is right in the village so you are only a few feet from the streets and shops on each side. We passed through with a few other boats and with only about a metre to spare under the keel.

Rising up

We thought of anchoring at another island but it was full of mooring balls so continued motoring northwards to Otok Arta Mala where a few other boats had already dropped the hook. This tiny, horseshoe-shaped, rocky island is uninhabited with no facilities but a safe harbour from predicted winds, and surrounded by many other islands.

We braved the coolish water in the hot 36° temperature, and many daytrippers took up anchorage, swimming, sunbathing, and playing water games. But come evening, they all upped anchor and headed home. We were all alone except again for 1 other sailboat.

View from Arta Mala

These waters at this time of year are heavy with marine traffic so we can't just put the auto pilot on and not keep looking out for others.

With not much to do at Arta Mala, we next motored to Otok Zut, a couple of hours away, where we anchored in a cove that saw about 40 boats by evening. We anchored and backed up to shore and stern tied with 2 ropes. The bay was spotted with mostly summer homes and a couple of restaurants that serve summer cruisers.

The restaurants have looked more upscale recently but still with the casual island character. But the prices can be a shocker as we found out. At the waiter's suggestion, we chose 1 fish for the both of us, a plate of Swiss Chard, another of rice, 2 colas, and 1 glass of wine. The food was just okay, the wine was great, and the early evening setting was wonderful but the bill wasn't...$160 CAD! And that was for one mediocre fish dish that we shared. We should have asked for a menu first.

Extravagant eatery

Our rigid inflatable dinghy, now 6 years old, has a seam that seeps out air ever so slightly and each day it needs to have a quick pump up. The fix requires a special glue which we don't have, so we set off northeast to Zadar - but not before stopping off at 1 more quiet anchorage of emerald green waters (Otok Ugljan) where we both enjoyed a refreshing swim in waters that were, well...getting warmer!

Stunning green waters

Recent anchorages:
N43°47.890' E015°39.580' Aug 02 Tijesno
N43°51.111' E015°33.439' Aug 03 Otok Arta Mala
N43°52.337' E015°19.656' Aug 04 Otok Zut (Uvala Hiljaca)
N44°02.764' E015°12.988' Aug 06 Otok Ugljan (Uvala Lamjana Mala)

Running of the donkeys

When we arrived at Tribunj on July 31st, we anchored in a semi-protected bay next to the breakwater with only a couple of other sailboats (N43°45.025' E015°45.055').

Tribunj is located on the mainland of Croatia, but it also has an Old Town located on a tiny island connected to the mainland with a short stone bridge. Mainly old residences are crowded onto the island but along the water's edge were the usual side bars and eateries,

Tiny island with bridge

There is a narrow, uninhabited island adjacent to the Old Town that is a reserve for a venerated donkey population.

Donkey statue at mainland Tribunj

When we went ashore, we learned of a fun annual event that was to take place over the next 2 nights. Donkey races. This affair has been going on since 1967 and the main participants that aren't always too cooperative or predictable make it a silly fun event to the delight of all, including the losers.

The race start and finish line was set at the waterfront in the town square that was transformed with band stand, big screen and, of course, all sorts of vendors offering all types of snacks and trinkets. A popular toy was a wacky dancing donkey that grooved to the live band.

Do you wanna dance!

We arrived early to get a good viewing spot and watched as the swarms started to arrive for the 8pm event. Originally it was men jockeys only but now women are included. Women raced on the first night and the men on the next night.

Let the games begin

Pre-parade

Donkeys have a mind of their own and it was evident. Some refused to move. Some jockeyed their riders off their backs. Some escaped and ran till caught. The most hilarious was when a couple of men were trying to push a donkey off the center of the raceway and the donkey pushed back even harder, no way was he moving.

And they're off...

...and he's off too!

In the end, it mattered little who actually won.