Last leg of epic journey!

Canada, here we come!

The quick and easy bar crossing leaving Port of Newport (Oregon USA) was encouraging, but as soon as we were out there, we faced a stronger than anticipated breeze on the nose and the short sharp waves made for some bashing. It was either turn back and wait for a favourable weather window, which wasn't predicted anytime soon, or persevere and hope the breeze died down. We chose the latter and after a few hours proved the right decision.

As we continued up the coast staying about 5 nautical miles offshore we were eventually cruising along in flat calm sea and in balmy temperatures. Between the Columbia Bar and Cape Flattery we picked up another beautiful salmon.

Wild salmon for dinner

Cape Flattery

We passed Neah Bay just before dark and made our last overnight run down the Strait of Juan de Fuca. Not sure of the tides as we approached Race Rocks in the early morning, we crossed through Race Passage and got caught in a 4-knot ebb. Finally through, we continued a short ways to find a respite in a quiet spot off Metchosin. There, at anchor, we did a little cleaning and homecoming organizing. Then our last one hour was a downwind spinnaker run into Victoria harbour; such a pleasant way to end it after hundreds of hours of motoring up the coast.

Adam, our associate member of Bluewater Cruising Association, had organized a welcoming committee that was assembled out at the end of the breakwater. So as we approached, we doused the spinnaker and hoisted up all the flags of the countries and territories that we had visited in the 9 years, 9 months, and 9 days since we had pulled out of this, our home port, in 2009.

40 foreign flags (photo courtesy of Al Kitchen-BWCA)

Cheers went up and horns blared as we passed the finish line. Such a welcome made the climax of our great adventure all the more emotional and memorable.

Welcoming committee

The day wasn't quite finished though. After a quick Customs check in and 50,384 nautical miles later, we took a berth at the inner harbour Wharf Street docks where our welcoming crowd was waiting. Hugs, snacks, and tales of venture ensued. Our hearty thanks to everyone!

Sea Turtle at sunset in home waters

Anchorages:
N48°21.698' W123°31.954' Jul 03 Parker Bay, Vancouver Island BC
N48°25.493' W123°22.305' Jul 03 Wharf Street Marina, Victoria BC

Almost home

We pulled out of Sausalito on June 23rd hoping to continue quite a bit farther up the coast but soon encountered high, steep, confused waves around Point Reyes even though there were only light winds.

We persisted and passed the safe port of Bodega Bay, hoping things would improve, but they didn't. It was actually getting worse and knew that the point of land ahead would probably be even nastier. So we wisely relented and retreated back 25 NM to Bodega to wait for better conditions.

Once inside the channel and bay, it was so calm, making it hard to believe the difference. After topping up on fuel we took a space among a myriad of fishing boats at Spud Point Marina. This is a small, cute, and very friendly village with a couple of restaurants, one proudly claiming to have the best clam chowder and tasty buns with 1/4 pound of clam meat.

Clams this way...

Judging from the tidy condition of the fishing boat fleet, there was pride in their profession.

Bodega fishing fleet

We met Steve Peterson, a real character who co-authored the book Locked Up in La Mesa, and described his surreal experience in the Tijuana jail! Jordan read the book while there with me to follow suit.

We shared tales with another interesting dock resident, a self-described cowboy, artist, and sailor who had spent years sailing around the world and multiple trips in the South and North Pacific, most of it single-handed on his 50-foot ketch.

After 2 days, the forecast looked good so with fingers crossed, we set off again. Evidently the horseshoes were still in the bilge as we got flat no-wind seas.

A sure sign that we were closing in on the Pacific northwest was the presence of salmon and it wasn't long before we landed a nice one. Not sure who was more excited, us or Chanty!

We took advantage of Port Orford's quick and easy in-and-out harbour to top up on diesel. We were expecting to pull up to a regular fuel wharf, not a 10-metre sea wall. But it went quick. Thankfully there weren't any waves or surge that would have had our spreaders smacking the concrete above.

HIGH fuel dock!

After Port Orford, we thought we had a clear run all the way to Canada. But the forecast changed to strong winds so we ducked into the Port of Newport Marina at 19:00 with plans to leave the next day.

Bridge over the River Yaquina (at Marina)

Almost home...(maybe) only 4 days to go...

Anchorages:
N38°19.808' W123°03.392' Jun 24 Bodega Bay (Spud Point Marina)
N42°44.365' W124°29.900' Jun 28 Port Orford (fuel stop)
N44°37.442' W124°03.169' Jun 29 Port of Newport Marina

Coastal run to Sausalito

We have noticed a difference in temperature since leaving Mazatlan Mexico and pulled out our blankets and warmer clothing. And our first stop after checking out of Mexico, San Diego, was also unusually chilly.

Tropics now far behind

This coast shows a prodigious and abundance of sea life. Sea turtles, a variety of dolphins, seals, sea lions, sharks, and even whales to name but a few samples seen. And where there is a bountiful sea, there are plenty of sea birds.

Jordan caught a good sized Pacific Bonito fish, and earlier, the ever tasteful Sierra Mackerel.

Dinner coming up

At San Diego,we were able to meet up with old friends and make new ones. Sailing friends may know Darryl Cross and his gal Heather (Darryl is the brother of Rob Cross of SV Keetya). While at the San Diego Wooden Boat Show, we had a surprising chance encounter with former Bluewater Cruisers when we heard "Sea Turtle, Sea Turtle" and spun around to see Norm and Beth of SV Sarah Jean from Vancouver.

Marlow and Carol, non-sailing friends from way back, drove from Palm Springs to meet us for a visit over dinner.

Sea Turtle anchored in front of San Diego Yacht Club

And at Santa Barbara we made a quick stop for a pleasant reunion with Dennis and Virginia of SV Libertad, a sailing couple that we continually bumped into when we all were cruising through the South Pacific 7 years ago.

Libertad

We have been SO lucky with the wind, or should we say no wind. The prevailing winds are from the north, so the strategy is head out when the wind dies, running the iron genny (our trusty motor).

The so-called Baja Bash was completed with very little bashing and the run up the coast of USA thus far was quite calm seas for the most part and with only a few lay-days in harbours waiting for weather windows. Our trusty weather routing guru, Adam of Bluewater Cruising back home said we must have horseshoes for ballast!

At this time of year going up the US coast, you can bet if there is no wind, you can expect fog. For hours at a time, we were 'in the soup' and thankful we had radar, radar reflectors, and AIS. However a couple of times out of the fog and not on radar were small recreational fishing boats no more than 45 metres away.

Fishing in the fog

The San Francisco Bay was a planned stop as headwinds beyond were forecast at about the time of our arrival. In calm seas we entered the Bay in dark but the Golden Gate Bridge was well marked with lights and beacons for a safe entry. We dropped anchor in Sausalito, across the Bay from the City at 23:30 just as the winds picked up. (The horseshoes were working.)

To fill our time, one day we took the ferry across to San Francisco (SF) waterfront to take a tour out to Alcatraz. But the tours were all booked up weeks in advance so we were out of luck.

Golden Gate as seen from ferry

Alcatraz from afar

So instead we played tourist, taking in all the sights...

Pier 39: seals' home

San Francisco fishing fleet

...and enjoyed a great lunch at The Old Clam House, the oldest restaurant in SF that has never moved its location. It was in business when Lincoln was President! With every meal they serve a small glass of flavoured warm clam juice which sounds terrible but is very delicious, especially used as a dip on the fresh bread.

The Old Clam House

Sausalito proved a pleasant stop. Lots of exclusive shops displayed products for the rich and an excellent variety of eateries for anyone's taste. We enjoyed an evening in the waterfront park where it was grooving to a live blues band. Then another night we were lured into a small cafe by rock and roll music from again, a live band.

Musical park

After a few days, the winds finally abated and a forecast looked acceptable so we left Sausalito and SF behind to continue up the coast towards Canada and home.

On our way out...

Anchorages:
N32°42.582' W117°14.095' Jun 13 San Diego (Police Docks)
N32°42.952' W117°13.848' Jun 14 San Diego (by Yacht Club)
N31°51.660' W122°28.570' Jun 19 Sausalito

Up the Baja coast

There is a north wind that blows almost all the time along the outside of the Baja coast of Mexico and consequently that passage is appropriately called the Baja Bash for passage-makers heading north. The best you can expect is some light to calm spells. So when that was predicted, we went for it.

We first stopped at San Jose del Cabo 20 nautical miles east of the actual cape where we refuelled. When we went round the cape, we were instantly hit with 30-knot headwinds and steep short waves. Impossible to motor into it, we double reefed the main and flew a small staysail for a 4-hour starboard tack out to sea to get away from the accelerated winds on the cape. We tacked back in, landing us further up the coast where we encountered very light winds, so motored from there.

Between the cape and Turtle Bay we had only a few hours of what we would call some light bashing, so we felt fortunate up to this point. There is little redeeming value to be found in the dreary, dusty, and rundown town of Turtle Bay but it was a required fuel stop.

We had been forewarned about the fuel boat overcharging and fudging the fuel count so when they approached right after we anchored, Jordan declined and decided to jerry-jug fuel from the gas station.

So we dinghied over to the pier and climbed the rickety steps and headed to the gas station which turned out to be quite a few blocks away. Upon return to the pier, the disgruntled fuel boat guy said we were not allowed to use the pier because he owned it. So not wanting to do a beach landing for a second sweaty trip back to the gas station, we agreed to take on 40 litres from the fuel boat at almost double the price.

Precarious pier

With weather still favourable, we continued on to Ensenada which would be our last stop and check-out port from Mexico. Arriving just after midnight we dropped the hook, and then the next morning, welcomed by the ever-present seals, obtained a reasonably priced day berth at the Cruiseport Village Marina under the shadow of a gigantic flag.

Welcome!

(The flag is one of the largest in the country at 50 metres long and 28 metres wide with a weight of 120 kilograms. It flies from a pole of 103 metres tall.)

We observed the change in colour of the water caused by the effects of the red tide that was in effect and it was very noticeable as a dark murky colour with a strong hint of red.

The Marina facilitated all the paper work and running us around to do our official check out, and with still a favourable weather forecast, we left later on the same day as our arrival.

Anchorages:
Cruising to San Jose del Cabo Jun 03 to Jun 05
N23°03.678' W109°40.395' Jun 05 San Jose del Cabo
Cruising to Turtle Bay Jun 05 to Jun 09
N27°41.280' W114°53.255' Jun 09 Turtle Bay
Cruising to Ensenada Jun 09 to Jun 12
N31°50.358' W116°36.942' Jun 12 Ensenada anchor
N31°51.336' W116°37.268' Jun 12 Ensenada dock

La Cruz and Mazatlan

Instead of making Barra de Navidad (Mexico) our jump-off for the long route towards Hawaii, we kept going north up the coast to Canada. We made a brief refueling and laundry stop at the fishing village of La Cruz de Huanacaxtle of Banderas Bay...

Palm leaf sculpture

Fishing village boats

...before making an easy trip up to Mazatlan. We actually got some pleasant sailing for a change. At Mazatlan, we found the one place adequate to anchor used by few cruisers with its pros and cons. It was just in behind the breakwater of the busy industrial port where ships and ferries come and go.

We dropped the hook in front of Club Nautico (near the smelly sewage treatment plant) and used their facilities for dinghy landing and showers. A check in with the Port Captain was required, and to our surprise, took only about 15 minutes.

Transportation was available from our anchorage via bus, Uber, the ever-present Volkswagen taxis, and regular taxi cabs. We used all 4 methods but found Uber to be the most convenient and reasonably priced.

Tourist taxi

We enjoyed Old Town Mazatlan with its focal point being the quintessential and popular zocalo (town square) and fabulous giant market place. Tightly packed stalls sold everything from clothing, jewellery, knickknacks, etc. and fresh chicken, beef, fish, etc. Fresh produce was second to none and the little eateries served basic but delicious and cheap typical Mexican foods.

Park area of zocalo

Busy vendor of colourful dolls

Early one morning, we climbed to the top of the popular lighthouse peak (Faro Mazatlan National Park) that towered above our anchorage. This cliff rises to only 157 metres but you hike 745 metres of sloping path before climbing 336 steps to the top where you share a 360° panorama with the lighthouse. There is also a short glass walk over the sight directly below for which you pay a small fee.

Cactii along the path

Vista above our anchorage

We spent some enjoyable time with Sylvia and Dirk, friends on another boat, Lison Life. The 4 of us stopped at a small restaurant one Sunday and asked for pescado (fish). At first we were told no, they did not have pescado. But 2 seconds later, they changed their mind, and said, Oh wait, come in, we can serve you pescado. After taking a table, we noticed that a staff member quickly left and soon returned - she had run out to buy some fish to serve us. When Jordan ordered a banana smoothie, she again ran out to purchase bananas. How accommodating!

The next evening, we left Mazatlan and the smell of the stinky sewer treatment plant behind for the crossing to San Jose del Cabo, on the lower end of the Baja, sailing on a broad reach most of the way.

Anchorages:
Cruising to La Cruz May 25 to May 26
N20°45.215' W105°22.093' May 26 La Cruz de Huanacaxtle
Cruising to Mazatlan May 27 to May May 29
N23°10.931' W106°25.335' May 29 Mazatlan

More Mexico

As we continued up the coast, mostly motoring, we began giving serious thought to continuing up the coast all the way home to Canada rather than doing the long route past Hawaii, a decision that we would have to make soon.

Our passages have had many sights of turtles and dolphins but have yielded only a few tasty fish for ourselves, and smaller red-meat fish for Chanty.

One for Chanty

We got a few hours of pounding into headwinds as we neared Acapulco, so pulled in for some relief. Normally we anchor out but Acapulco's large harbour is deep and not so good holding so we went into quiet Marina Santa Lucia. This was to Chanty's liking too as it gave her a chance to get off the boat and snoop around.

Being a mischievous rascal, Chanty disappeared one morning to do some boat snooping while we were up having a shower. Her foray ended with a rescue by the Security Guard after she fell in the water. She was the next to get a good shower to rinse the salt out, much to her angst.

After a sad soaking

Alpher, a young looking and friendly member of the Marina staff, offered to take us to watch the famous Acapulco Clavadistas Profesionales (cliff divers).

Friendly dock man, Alpher

Even though we had seen them back in 2011, it is always a thrill to watch their death-defying dives. They first scale the steep cliffs of the gorge up to as high as 35 metres above the churning ocean below, then perform the dives.

The divers' gorge

Watch this 44-second video of a daring diver. He is to the left of the lights at the top and jumps at 34 seconds if you wish to fast forward it.

In the morning, a check out with the Port Captain was essential but ineptitude made it a frustrating 5-hour affair. After another unpleasant refueling stop where again the surge put us in a precarious position, we made our escape from Acapulco in light to no winds.

Dreadful fuel dock mooring

Our next stop, Barra de Navidad, was of little significance other than here we finally made the decision to do the coastal route home. So instead of making this our jump-off for the long route, we kept going north.

Water taxi dock at Barra de Navidad

Anchorages:
Cruising to Acapulco May 15 to May 18
N16°50.405' W099°54.138' May 18 Acapulco
Cruising to Barra de Navidad May 20 to May 23
N19°11.412' W104°40.422' May 23 Barra de Navidad

Beseeching at Huatulco

Calm sunset

So 9 days after leaving Costa Rica, we dropped anchor at Huatulco (south Mexico) and experienced a frustrating 3-day official check in. We were dealing with an over-officious and uncompromising Port Captain officer in a matter relating to an irregularity in paperwork.

You see, on December 9, 2009 (just shy of 10 years ago), we had originally checked into northern Mexico at Ensenada on our way south. At that time, it was required for us to purchase a 10-year Temporary Import Permit (TIP) for Sea Turtle. Over the years, passing through many countries, we would periodically purge our files of accumulated and redundant official paperwork. In that process, we disposed of this Mexico TIP that evidently was still in effect even though we had exited Mexico years earlier.

A sample of required TIP

So the officious official insisted that we needed to purchase a new TIP. Okay, simple enough, right? Not really. It required a 2-hour journey down the coast to Santa Cruz where the nearest office (actually a state appointed bank) that could issue it was!

So off we went, bouncing along in the land of a million topes (speed bumps) in a hot crowded bus in pursuit of the needed TIP. Now if you have done any amount of travelling in Mexico you will have no doubt noticed a peculiarity of the banks there. When you approach, the first thing you see is a security guard doing door control and the next thing you see as he opens the door for you is a throng of beleaguered patrons in a long snaking line waiting their turn to understaffed tellers.

After the enduring wait, the teller began to process our request and in that she discovered that our TIP issued almost 10 years ago was still in effect (as we had tried to tell the Port Captain) and that it would be impossible to get a new one until after it expired in December of 2019. The only thing this all-day-endeavour yielded was the number of our original TIP.

So the next morning, we beseeched our stone-faced official to accept the only thing we could produce. No can do. Customs officials had to be summoned from the airport to sort this out. Eventually they came, and after they contacted the Ensenada office that issued our original TIP to confirm the existence of it, they prepared a piece of paperwork in lieu of. But the pillar of port protect was still not convinced. It required more phone calls and more beseeching before he eventually reluctantly relented.

So as the ink was still drying on the final check-in paper, we told him we wanted to do the required port check out, then held our breath. One hour later, relieved, we were out the door.

Needing fuel, we approached the fuel pier, where, in the Mexican banking way we waited in line. The tie-up was a nasty affair. First more beseeching. The fuel employees seemed ambivalent to the need to catch our lines. The tide was low, making the irregular concrete wall too high for the already inadequate protection in place, and as the surge came in and out of the confined harbour, it put shuddering stress on our lines and cleats.

Then to make matters worse, Jordan started filling the wrong deck fitting. He was pouring diesel into the water tank!!! Both fillers are side by side but both with obvious embossed labels. He admitted a stupid lapse in attention. He had heard that a previous owner of Sea Turtle had done the same thing and wondered how anyone could have been so stupid. Well, now he knows.

After payment, the workers quickly disappeared without untying us! More beseeching! But then they couldn't release the bow rope as they had tied it in such a way as the surge had seized it. Eventually they had to get a crowbar to prise it off, all the while Judy was bumper jockey scrambling about the bow to minimize the crashing of bowsprit to concrete.

What was supposed to be a 1-day stop turned into 4.

Having relating all these frustrating events, we have to say Huatulco is actually a very pleasant place but not necessarily for cruising here.

Anchorage:
N15°45.154' W096°07.655' May 12 Huatulco

Homewards from Panama

April 28th Sea Turtle was once again flowing through Pacific waters after almost 10 years of circling the globe and it became time to make the long journey home. There are various routes that one can sail from Central America back to BC, each with their own advantages and disadvantages.

For us, it came down to 2 options; either take the long way out towards Hawaii and around the summer Pacific high then back into BC, or the shorter direct route, harbour hopping all the way up the coast.

The disadvantages of the first would be lots of motoring to get out of the large belt of calm that sits off the coast of Central America and of course the length of time at sea. As for the latter, it would be going against the wind almost all the way, so to avoid bashing, there would be lots of lay-days in ports waiting for calm winds and then lots of motoring. We chose the long way.

With ample victuals, we departed Panama City for, firstly, a 4-day jaunt of mostly motoring up the coast to Puntarenas Costa Rica. There we completely topped up with fuel and enjoyed a refreshing pool dip knowing it would be our last for a long time.

Pool dip

From there, it was off into the big blue Pacific towards Hawaii. Once again, we had the gracious daily weather updates and vectors from Adam, our associate member of Bluewater Cruising Association.

Our first day out was promising with a stiff breeze and it felt like the first flight of a fledgling out of its nest. But we soon fell into the calms that we knew were lurking. At first we patiently waited for little puffs of wind now and again. But we could only take so much dead calm, sail flopping, glassy seas that we would resort to the drone of the motor.

Monotonous calm

We found ways to break the monotony. Once when we were dead in the water and the mainsail just flopped from side to side, we decided to take a dip (N10°35.939' W091°23.039'). Lowering the stern ladder, we enjoyed the wet relief of the barely cool water. It was surprising to see so many fish under the boat. But when we felt the water starting to pass around us, our grip tightened and it had us scrambling back up on deck.

Pelagic babies

Here I come...don't let go!!

We subsequently heard that recently the crew of a sailboat in the Med was doing the same thing but we suppose they were swimming about without holding on and the boat picked up a puff of wind and they weren't able to get back on as 1 lone survivor recounted.

Jordan passed the time by crafting delicious looking lures that evidently worked too good because they were soon taken - hook, line, and sinker. The first time, we heard a bang of the recoiling remnant of the line's bungy shock absorber as it ricocheted back. Whatever the monster was, man, it was gone!

After re-rigging, the second event was much the same but this time we could see that our pelagic catch had been snatched, the venue being obvious by circling shark fins (and we had been swimming in these waters!)

After too many days of motoring and without wind on the horizon, we had to reconsider our strategy. With the coast of Mexico not far away, it was prudent that we go up and refuel, then head up the coast a ways before again jumping off and where the needed trade winds would typically be closer to the continent.

Anchorages:
Cruising to Costa Rica Apr 28 to May 02
N09°58.950' W084°48.650' May 02 COSTA RICA Puntarenas
Cruising to Mexico May 03 to May 12

Milestone

After an overnighter from the San Blas Islands, we arrived on April 15th at the big harbour of Colon and the entrance to the Panama Canal. We checked into Shelter Bay Marina, the only one on the Caribbean side which is on the west side of the harbour and sits all alone surrounded by dense tropical jungle. The busy town and port of Colon are across on the other side.

Jungle walk

Panama and its Canal are like an hourglass and the cruising sailor is like the sand. The Marina is where they all gather while waiting clearance to transit the Canal. There is a certain happy excitement in the air especially with first-timers to the Canal transit. The Marina facilities offer poolside breaks from the heat and boat chores and events like potlucks, jam sessions (which Jordan took part in), yoga, and even free shuttle to the far side of the harbour for groceries, etc.

Right after our arrival, our first chore was to find an agent to take care of all details and scheduling relating to the Canal transitting.

Smiling Stanley

To contact Stanley for your transit, his cell is (507) 6523-3991 and email is navierastanleys.a@gmail.com.

There are a lot of tasks and coordinating of people and time before a boat can transit the Canal. Stanley of course handled it all. So when it was time to go, our boat had all the necessary large fenders and 4 long lines, and a Canal Advisor, which is a low level Pilot, all provided by Stanley. The main task for us was to provide 4 designated line handlers which we found happy volunteer sailors to do (with me being 1 of the 4).

The Canal transit from the Caribbean involved entering a set of 3 locks that raised us about 90 feet to Gatun Lake. From there we motored about 30 miles across the Lake and over to the Pacific side of the Isthmus where 3 more locks dropped us into the Pacific.

We learned that the Canal has operated for over 100 years, non-stop 24/7, with 35 to 40 vessels per day, among other interesting stats

Our transit date was April 24th when we entered the first lock around 16:00 with a large freighter in front of us.

Approaching first Gatun Lock

Slowly raising up

View from behind as water raises (30-ft difference in water levels)

At about 19:00, we were in Gatun Lake and tied to a large concrete mooring with another sailboat for the night. We had for the most part prepared hearty meals and menus for our crew in advance.

Mega mooring

Many thanks to our 3 volunteer line handlers

Early the next morning, we were joined again by our Advisor for the remainder of the transit. After about a 6-hour motoring, we arrived at the locks on the Pacific side where we were lowered back to sea level by 15:30 on the second day. Through each lock, we were nested (rafted) to a large catamaran in the center and another monohull on the other side. A large and somewhat intimidating freighter also shared the locks with our nest, but this time behind us.

Sea Turtle on starboard side of catamaran (bottom far left)

A graphic animation

A closeup of the daunting companion behind us

For most world cruisers, to transit the Panama Canal and see just how large and incredible an undertaking it was leaves a lasting impression and serves as a notable milestone for the log. For us, it was particularly excitingly significant as upon exiting the Canal on the Pacific side and going under the Bridge of Americas, we crossed our track that we had laid down almost 10 years ago, making us official world circumnavigators!

Opening the doors to the Pacific!

Bridge of Americas

Our next passage is going to be our longest, Panama to Victoria, and we may be at sea for as long as 60 days. That's when we will arrive back in our home port after 10 years and having sailed well over 50,000 nautical miles...

Anchorages:
N09°22.028' W079°57.042' Apr 15 Shelter Bay Marina
N09°22.187' W079°56.297' Apr 24 "The Flats" (waiting to transit)
N09°15.654' W079°54.165' Apr 24 Gatun Lake mooring
N08°54.585' W079°31.538' Apr 25 Isla Perico (south side)
N08°55.198' W079°31.733' Apr 26 Isla Perico (north side)