Homewards from Panama

April 28th Sea Turtle was once again flowing through Pacific waters after almost 10 years of circling the globe and it became time to make the long journey home. There are various routes that one can sail from Central America back to BC, each with their own advantages and disadvantages.

For us, it came down to 2 options; either take the long way out towards Hawaii and around the summer Pacific high then back into BC, or the shorter direct route, harbour hopping all the way up the coast.

The disadvantages of the first would be lots of motoring to get out of the large belt of calm that sits off the coast of Central America and of course the length of time at sea. As for the latter, it would be going against the wind almost all the way, so to avoid bashing, there would be lots of lay-days in ports waiting for calm winds and then lots of motoring. We chose the long way.

With ample victuals, we departed Panama City for, firstly, a 4-day jaunt of mostly motoring up the coast to Puntarenas Costa Rica. There we completely topped up with fuel and enjoyed a refreshing pool dip knowing it would be our last for a long time.

Pool dip

From there, it was off into the big blue Pacific towards Hawaii. Once again, we had the gracious daily weather updates and vectors from Adam, our associate member of Bluewater Cruising Association.

Our first day out was promising with a stiff breeze and it felt like the first flight of a fledgling out of its nest. But we soon fell into the calms that we knew were lurking. At first we patiently waited for little puffs of wind now and again. But we could only take so much dead calm, sail flopping, glassy seas that we would resort to the drone of the motor.

Monotonous calm

We found ways to break the monotony. Once when we were dead in the water and the mainsail just flopped from side to side, we decided to take a dip (N10°35.939' W091°23.039'). Lowering the stern ladder, we enjoyed the wet relief of the barely cool water. It was surprising to see so many fish under the boat. But when we felt the water starting to pass around us, our grip tightened and it had us scrambling back up on deck.

Pelagic babies

Here I come...don't let go!!

We subsequently heard that recently the crew of a sailboat in the Med was doing the same thing but we suppose they were swimming about without holding on and the boat picked up a puff of wind and they weren't able to get back on as 1 lone survivor recounted.

Jordan passed the time by crafting delicious looking lures that evidently worked too good because they were soon taken - hook, line, and sinker. The first time, we heard a bang of the recoiling remnant of the line's bungy shock absorber as it ricocheted back. Whatever the monster was, man, it was gone!

After re-rigging, the second event was much the same but this time we could see that our pelagic catch had been snatched, the venue being obvious by circling shark fins (and we had been swimming in these waters!)

After too many days of motoring and without wind on the horizon, we had to reconsider our strategy. With the coast of Mexico not far away, it was prudent that we go up and refuel, then head up the coast a ways before again jumping off and where the needed trade winds would typically be closer to the continent.

Anchorages:
Cruising to Costa Rica Apr 28 to May 02
N09°58.950' W084°48.650' May 02 COSTA RICA Puntarenas
Cruising to Mexico May 03 to May 12