Up the Baja coast

There is a north wind that blows almost all the time along the outside of the Baja coast of Mexico and consequently that passage is appropriately called the Baja Bash for passage-makers heading north. The best you can expect is some light to calm spells. So when that was predicted, we went for it.

We first stopped at San Jose del Cabo 20 nautical miles east of the actual cape where we refuelled. When we went round the cape, we were instantly hit with 30-knot headwinds and steep short waves. Impossible to motor into it, we double reefed the main and flew a small staysail for a 4-hour starboard tack out to sea to get away from the accelerated winds on the cape. We tacked back in, landing us further up the coast where we encountered very light winds, so motored from there.

Between the cape and Turtle Bay we had only a few hours of what we would call some light bashing, so we felt fortunate up to this point. There is little redeeming value to be found in the dreary, dusty, and rundown town of Turtle Bay but it was a required fuel stop.

We had been forewarned about the fuel boat overcharging and fudging the fuel count so when they approached right after we anchored, Jordan declined and decided to jerry-jug fuel from the gas station.

So we dinghied over to the pier and climbed the rickety steps and headed to the gas station which turned out to be quite a few blocks away. Upon return to the pier, the disgruntled fuel boat guy said we were not allowed to use the pier because he owned it. So not wanting to do a beach landing for a second sweaty trip back to the gas station, we agreed to take on 40 litres from the fuel boat at almost double the price.

Precarious pier

With weather still favourable, we continued on to Ensenada which would be our last stop and check-out port from Mexico. Arriving just after midnight we dropped the hook, and then the next morning, welcomed by the ever-present seals, obtained a reasonably priced day berth at the Cruiseport Village Marina under the shadow of a gigantic flag.

Welcome!

(The flag is one of the largest in the country at 50 metres long and 28 metres wide with a weight of 120 kilograms. It flies from a pole of 103 metres tall.)

We observed the change in colour of the water caused by the effects of the red tide that was in effect and it was very noticeable as a dark murky colour with a strong hint of red.

The Marina facilitated all the paper work and running us around to do our official check out, and with still a favourable weather forecast, we left later on the same day as our arrival.

Anchorages:
Cruising to San Jose del Cabo Jun 03 to Jun 05
N23°03.678' W109°40.395' Jun 05 San Jose del Cabo
Cruising to Turtle Bay Jun 05 to Jun 09
N27°41.280' W114°53.255' Jun 09 Turtle Bay
Cruising to Ensenada Jun 09 to Jun 12
N31°50.358' W116°36.942' Jun 12 Ensenada anchor
N31°51.336' W116°37.268' Jun 12 Ensenada dock