More Mexico

As we continued up the coast, mostly motoring, we began giving serious thought to continuing up the coast all the way home to Canada rather than doing the long route past Hawaii, a decision that we would have to make soon.

Our passages have had many sights of turtles and dolphins but have yielded only a few tasty fish for ourselves, and smaller red-meat fish for Chanty.

One for Chanty

We got a few hours of pounding into headwinds as we neared Acapulco, so pulled in for some relief. Normally we anchor out but Acapulco's large harbour is deep and not so good holding so we went into quiet Marina Santa Lucia. This was to Chanty's liking too as it gave her a chance to get off the boat and snoop around.

Being a mischievous rascal, Chanty disappeared one morning to do some boat snooping while we were up having a shower. Her foray ended with a rescue by the Security Guard after she fell in the water. She was the next to get a good shower to rinse the salt out, much to her angst.

After a sad soaking

Alpher, a young looking and friendly member of the Marina staff, offered to take us to watch the famous Acapulco Clavadistas Profesionales (cliff divers).

Friendly dock man, Alpher

Even though we had seen them back in 2011, it is always a thrill to watch their death-defying dives. They first scale the steep cliffs of the gorge up to as high as 35 metres above the churning ocean below, then perform the dives.

The divers' gorge

Watch this 44-second video of a daring diver. He is to the left of the lights at the top and jumps at 34 seconds if you wish to fast forward it.

In the morning, a check out with the Port Captain was essential but ineptitude made it a frustrating 5-hour affair. After another unpleasant refueling stop where again the surge put us in a precarious position, we made our escape from Acapulco in light to no winds.

Dreadful fuel dock mooring

Our next stop, Barra de Navidad, was of little significance other than here we finally made the decision to do the coastal route home. So instead of making this our jump-off for the long route, we kept going north.

Water taxi dock at Barra de Navidad

Anchorages:
Cruising to Acapulco May 15 to May 18
N16°50.405' W099°54.138' May 18 Acapulco
Cruising to Barra de Navidad May 20 to May 23
N19°11.412' W104°40.422' May 23 Barra de Navidad

Beseeching at Huatulco

Calm sunset

So 9 days after leaving Costa Rica, we dropped anchor at Huatulco (south Mexico) and experienced a frustrating 3-day official check in. We were dealing with an over-officious and uncompromising Port Captain officer in a matter relating to an irregularity in paperwork.

You see, on December 9, 2009 (just shy of 10 years ago), we had originally checked into northern Mexico at Ensenada on our way south. At that time, it was required for us to purchase a 10-year Temporary Import Permit (TIP) for Sea Turtle. Over the years, passing through many countries, we would periodically purge our files of accumulated and redundant official paperwork. In that process, we disposed of this Mexico TIP that evidently was still in effect even though we had exited Mexico years earlier.

A sample of required TIP

So the officious official insisted that we needed to purchase a new TIP. Okay, simple enough, right? Not really. It required a 2-hour journey down the coast to Santa Cruz where the nearest office (actually a state appointed bank) that could issue it was!

So off we went, bouncing along in the land of a million topes (speed bumps) in a hot crowded bus in pursuit of the needed TIP. Now if you have done any amount of travelling in Mexico you will have no doubt noticed a peculiarity of the banks there. When you approach, the first thing you see is a security guard doing door control and the next thing you see as he opens the door for you is a throng of beleaguered patrons in a long snaking line waiting their turn to understaffed tellers.

After the enduring wait, the teller began to process our request and in that she discovered that our TIP issued almost 10 years ago was still in effect (as we had tried to tell the Port Captain) and that it would be impossible to get a new one until after it expired in December of 2019. The only thing this all-day-endeavour yielded was the number of our original TIP.

So the next morning, we beseeched our stone-faced official to accept the only thing we could produce. No can do. Customs officials had to be summoned from the airport to sort this out. Eventually they came, and after they contacted the Ensenada office that issued our original TIP to confirm the existence of it, they prepared a piece of paperwork in lieu of. But the pillar of port protect was still not convinced. It required more phone calls and more beseeching before he eventually reluctantly relented.

So as the ink was still drying on the final check-in paper, we told him we wanted to do the required port check out, then held our breath. One hour later, relieved, we were out the door.

Needing fuel, we approached the fuel pier, where, in the Mexican banking way we waited in line. The tie-up was a nasty affair. First more beseeching. The fuel employees seemed ambivalent to the need to catch our lines. The tide was low, making the irregular concrete wall too high for the already inadequate protection in place, and as the surge came in and out of the confined harbour, it put shuddering stress on our lines and cleats.

Then to make matters worse, Jordan started filling the wrong deck fitting. He was pouring diesel into the water tank!!! Both fillers are side by side but both with obvious embossed labels. He admitted a stupid lapse in attention. He had heard that a previous owner of Sea Turtle had done the same thing and wondered how anyone could have been so stupid. Well, now he knows.

After payment, the workers quickly disappeared without untying us! More beseeching! But then they couldn't release the bow rope as they had tied it in such a way as the surge had seized it. Eventually they had to get a crowbar to prise it off, all the while Judy was bumper jockey scrambling about the bow to minimize the crashing of bowsprit to concrete.

What was supposed to be a 1-day stop turned into 4.

Having relating all these frustrating events, we have to say Huatulco is actually a very pleasant place but not necessarily for cruising here.

Anchorage:
N15°45.154' W096°07.655' May 12 Huatulco

Homewards from Panama

April 28th Sea Turtle was once again flowing through Pacific waters after almost 10 years of circling the globe and it became time to make the long journey home. There are various routes that one can sail from Central America back to BC, each with their own advantages and disadvantages.

For us, it came down to 2 options; either take the long way out towards Hawaii and around the summer Pacific high then back into BC, or the shorter direct route, harbour hopping all the way up the coast.

The disadvantages of the first would be lots of motoring to get out of the large belt of calm that sits off the coast of Central America and of course the length of time at sea. As for the latter, it would be going against the wind almost all the way, so to avoid bashing, there would be lots of lay-days in ports waiting for calm winds and then lots of motoring. We chose the long way.

With ample victuals, we departed Panama City for, firstly, a 4-day jaunt of mostly motoring up the coast to Puntarenas Costa Rica. There we completely topped up with fuel and enjoyed a refreshing pool dip knowing it would be our last for a long time.

Pool dip

From there, it was off into the big blue Pacific towards Hawaii. Once again, we had the gracious daily weather updates and vectors from Adam, our associate member of Bluewater Cruising Association.

Our first day out was promising with a stiff breeze and it felt like the first flight of a fledgling out of its nest. But we soon fell into the calms that we knew were lurking. At first we patiently waited for little puffs of wind now and again. But we could only take so much dead calm, sail flopping, glassy seas that we would resort to the drone of the motor.

Monotonous calm

We found ways to break the monotony. Once when we were dead in the water and the mainsail just flopped from side to side, we decided to take a dip (N10°35.939' W091°23.039'). Lowering the stern ladder, we enjoyed the wet relief of the barely cool water. It was surprising to see so many fish under the boat. But when we felt the water starting to pass around us, our grip tightened and it had us scrambling back up on deck.

Pelagic babies

Here I come...don't let go!!

We subsequently heard that recently the crew of a sailboat in the Med was doing the same thing but we suppose they were swimming about without holding on and the boat picked up a puff of wind and they weren't able to get back on as 1 lone survivor recounted.

Jordan passed the time by crafting delicious looking lures that evidently worked too good because they were soon taken - hook, line, and sinker. The first time, we heard a bang of the recoiling remnant of the line's bungy shock absorber as it ricocheted back. Whatever the monster was, man, it was gone!

After re-rigging, the second event was much the same but this time we could see that our pelagic catch had been snatched, the venue being obvious by circling shark fins (and we had been swimming in these waters!)

After too many days of motoring and without wind on the horizon, we had to reconsider our strategy. With the coast of Mexico not far away, it was prudent that we go up and refuel, then head up the coast a ways before again jumping off and where the needed trade winds would typically be closer to the continent.

Anchorages:
Cruising to Costa Rica Apr 28 to May 02
N09°58.950' W084°48.650' May 02 COSTA RICA Puntarenas
Cruising to Mexico May 03 to May 12

Milestone

After an overnighter from the San Blas Islands, we arrived on April 15th at the big harbour of Colon and the entrance to the Panama Canal. We checked into Shelter Bay Marina, the only one on the Caribbean side which is on the west side of the harbour and sits all alone surrounded by dense tropical jungle. The busy town and port of Colon are across on the other side.

Jungle walk

Panama and its Canal are like an hourglass and the cruising sailor is like the sand. The Marina is where they all gather while waiting clearance to transit the Canal. There is a certain happy excitement in the air especially with first-timers to the Canal transit. The Marina facilities offer poolside breaks from the heat and boat chores and events like potlucks, jam sessions (which Jordan took part in), yoga, and even free shuttle to the far side of the harbour for groceries, etc.

Right after our arrival, our first chore was to find an agent to take care of all details and scheduling relating to the Canal transitting.

Smiling Stanley

To contact Stanley for your transit, his cell is (507) 6523-3991 and email is navierastanleys.a@gmail.com.

There are a lot of tasks and coordinating of people and time before a boat can transit the Canal. Stanley of course handled it all. So when it was time to go, our boat had all the necessary large fenders and 4 long lines, and a Canal Advisor, which is a low level Pilot, all provided by Stanley. The main task for us was to provide 4 designated line handlers which we found happy volunteer sailors to do (with me being 1 of the 4).

The Canal transit from the Caribbean involved entering a set of 3 locks that raised us about 90 feet to Gatun Lake. From there we motored about 30 miles across the Lake and over to the Pacific side of the Isthmus where 3 more locks dropped us into the Pacific.

We learned that the Canal has operated for over 100 years, non-stop 24/7, with 35 to 40 vessels per day, among other interesting stats

Our transit date was April 24th when we entered the first lock around 16:00 with a large freighter in front of us.

Approaching first Gatun Lock

Slowly raising up

View from behind as water raises (30-ft difference in water levels)

At about 19:00, we were in Gatun Lake and tied to a large concrete mooring with another sailboat for the night. We had for the most part prepared hearty meals and menus for our crew in advance.

Mega mooring

Many thanks to our 3 volunteer line handlers

Early the next morning, we were joined again by our Advisor for the remainder of the transit. After about a 6-hour motoring, we arrived at the locks on the Pacific side where we were lowered back to sea level by 15:30 on the second day. Through each lock, we were nested (rafted) to a large catamaran in the center and another monohull on the other side. A large and somewhat intimidating freighter also shared the locks with our nest, but this time behind us.

Sea Turtle on starboard side of catamaran (bottom far left)

A graphic animation

A closeup of the daunting companion behind us

For most world cruisers, to transit the Panama Canal and see just how large and incredible an undertaking it was leaves a lasting impression and serves as a notable milestone for the log. For us, it was particularly excitingly significant as upon exiting the Canal on the Pacific side and going under the Bridge of Americas, we crossed our track that we had laid down almost 10 years ago, making us official world circumnavigators!

Opening the doors to the Pacific!

Bridge of Americas

Our next passage is going to be our longest, Panama to Victoria, and we may be at sea for as long as 60 days. That's when we will arrive back in our home port after 10 years and having sailed well over 50,000 nautical miles...

Anchorages:
N09°22.028' W079°57.042' Apr 15 Shelter Bay Marina
N09°22.187' W079°56.297' Apr 24 "The Flats" (waiting to transit)
N09°15.654' W079°54.165' Apr 24 Gatun Lake mooring
N08°54.585' W079°31.538' Apr 25 Isla Perico (south side)
N08°55.198' W079°31.733' Apr 26 Isla Perico (north side)

PANAMA San Blas

We had a relatively uneventful 7-day passage from Gilligan's Island of Puerto Rico to the San Blas Islands of Panama. We had wind on the beam and on the port quarter that peaked at about 20 to 25 knots as we passed about 150 nautical miles off the coast of Venezuela/Columbia. The waves were exceptionally high and steep given that wind speed and it made for an agitated ride for awhile. But the winds died and for the last 2 days we had to motor while the seas died down.

The pleasant sight of dolphins was noted a couple of times as well as a corona around the sun that was directly overhead. This was the first time I had ever seen this interesting celestial display!

Chanty could again hear nightly arrivals on deck of flying fish. Her highlight of the day would be fetching an early morning stinky fish breakfast off the deck.

We made an early morning arrival in the San Blas Islands where we chose one of many secluded small palm islands to shelter in. Our first order of business was to jump in the ocean for a refreshing swim to abate the heat. We walked the paradise island and found a couple of coconuts for breakfast but sadly saw plentiful plastic refuse that had washed up on the windward shore.

Daydreaming in paradise

These islands are part of Panama and the peaceful indigenous people called Kuna are allowed a certain amount of autonomy. They have been able to keep their tranquil way of life and habitat unchanged for the most part. They are proud of their culture and are eager to show and sell their craft, that being their intricate hand-stitched mola fabrics, throughout the islands and area.

Lola, a colourful Kuna woman with Judy

Perfect end of day

The next morning, just as we pulled anchor, a Kuna man stopped by in his boat to see if we were interested in purchasing any of his molas. We quickly reset the anchor and invited them aboard to have a look.

Venancio and his young helper Natalio started hauling molas aboard Sea Turtle. It was impossible to see them all, but after a period of time, we finally made our decision.

Boat-to-boat mola sales

So up came the anchor again and it was off to Islas Maqui. This was a very pleasant stop other than the pesky no-see-ums. Jumping in to snorkel the nearby reef, we were disappointed that we left the camera on the boat as we were not expecting much. So we missed getting pics of 2 large sting rays half buried in the sandy bottom and getting snaps of swaying purple coral, not to mention the intricate patterned GIANT brain corals!

Back on Sea Turtle, a local came by selling fish; we purchased 1 as our fishing attempts had been fruitless lately. When asked if he had any lobster, we were delighted when he pulled out 2 big ones for $5 each!

Low-tech sailing

Then yet another Kuna man, Victor, approached us asking for the $10 fee for 1 month for anchoring in the San Blas waters. Seemed strange but he did have an official receipt. He next asked if we wanted any mangoes or avocados and again we said yes, yes, and bananas. So off he went, paddling his dugout canoe.

When we realized he was heading to an island about a mile away we jumped in the dinghy and towed him there. We followed him into the jungle that acted as his orchard where we picked ripe avocados and mangoes off the ground while he whacked down a bunch of green bananas. He didn't want any money for it but we insisted with a few dollars.

Later in the day, we dinghied over to a little island close by where a few native's huts were their homes. There we met Victor again and his family and welcomed us to stroll their neatly kept beautiful island. They even gave us some lovely conch shells to take.

Munching a mango

The whole island was a coconut palm grove ringed with fine white sand beaches and protected by an outer reef that served them bounty from the sea.

Island tranquility

Back on board we finished a wonderful day over a delicious lobster dinner!

Next morning was our final San Blas stop at Chichime Island where we anchored inside the small lagoon. Later we went ashore where we found more molas, less expensive, but not as good quality in our opinion. We pulled out of there at sunset for an overnighter to Shelter Bay Marina near the entrance of the Panama Canal.

Chichime merriment

San Blas anchorages:
N09°28.862' W078°40.167' Apr 12 by Mangles Canal
N09°34.934' W078°40.463' Apr 13 Islas Maqui
N09°35.273' W078°52.877' Apr 14 Chichime Island

Ponce and Gilligan's

A real change of scenery was anchoring at the Port of Ponce (pronounced Pon say) along the south coast of Puerto Rico where our view was not island beaches but a bright orange freighter. It was a calm quiet area except for the slight drone of the freighter's engines day and night.

Our view

Town center was a ways away so we were initiated into the world of Uber for transportation that proved an efficient and reasonably cheap way to go rather than taxi.

The Town's focal center is the pleasant central park and fountain that is surrounded by restored classical architecture that is juxtaposed by the gaily painted old firehall.

Lion Fountain

Firehall of 1887

Classic architecture

Elegant bank

We broke up our time aboard with a few activities that Townships provide, the cinema for one. We saw a sad but true movie about the Pakistan terrorists that besieged Hotel Mumbai and several other locations all at the same time in 2008.

The next evening we attended a very exciting local basketball game that the hometown team barely squeaked through with a win of 112 to 107 to the roar of the crowd and the team's mascot, a lion.

Even though we did our official check out of Puerto Rico on April 3rd, we made an overnight anchorage at Gilligan's Island, also known as Cayos de Cana Gorda by the locals. It's being called Gilligan's as it apparently resembles the Gilligan's Island on the TV series of the same name.

Leaving at 08:00 on April 5th was for a passage to Panama.

Final Puerto Rico Anchorages:
N17°57.929' W066°37.133' Mar 31 Ponce
N17°56.835' W066°52.294' Apr 04 Gilligan's Island

Puerto Rico delights

Sea Turtle found several interesting one-night anchorages, such as the delightful island of Isla Ramos where we were the lone explorers. It evidently had no permanent inhabitants though we saw chickens in a cage and a wondering Siamese cat that we watered. We retrieved a couple of coconuts and found a few good shells as we combed the beach. Thankfully a local boater soon arrived to tend to his animals.

The next stop was by the large mangrove basin of Punta Medio Mundo that we explored in the dinghy. We had good fun zooming through the labyrinth of channels and even managed to get lost a couple of times in the natural maze!

Mangrove network

Click here, Mangrove Mania, to watch our 35-second YouTube video of speeding through the mangroves.

Later in the day, we moved to a cove on Isla Pineros and picked up a mooring buoy in front of a beautiful beach. There were a couple of other boats there but they soon left and so, again, we had the place to ourselves. It would have been a perfect stop other than we were restricted to the beach due to the potential danger of unexploded ordinances, the remnants of past military exercises there.

The other deterrent was the onslaught of biting no-see-um bugs. (Hmm, maybe that's why the other boats left.) Wearing only a bathing suit, I was a bug buffet and was in agony with the itch of the bites covering my body. Jordan escaped the torture as he had worn a long-sleeved shirt.

No man's land

We next anchored at Cayos de Barco in the lee of its string of small mangrove islands that formed a barrier against the open ocean waves.

Another overnight stop was at Isla Muertos whose name means death or coffin. The Island is a marine park that's sensitive to sea turtle nesting. There are no permanent residents and it's a popular place for day boaters from the mainland a few kilometres away.

We walked a fair distance from our dinghy along a cactus lined trail until we got to the base of a hill, and from there, the trail got steep and gnarly as we climbed to the top. On top was an old large lighthouse building that obviously housed a contingent of caretakers and protectors of the realm. It had long since been abandoned and the only function now is a small high intensity beacon light for today's seafarers.

Lighting the way

We discovered an opening in the wall that we could climb through to get to the spiral stairs that led up to the top of the lighthouse tower. It was a nerve wracking 50-step climb on rusty stairs, but the awesome view was worth it.

A lighthouse vista

The rusty stairs weren't the worst scare of the day though. What was terrifying was the snake that wrapped itself around my leg - not once but twice!! The first time, I kicked it off but it immediately wrapped itself around again. Screaming and kicking finally shook it loose and away but not before I tumbled in the frantic effort. Phew! Time to leave Muertos...

Anchorages:
N18°18.929' W065°36.743' Mar 27 Isla Ramos
N18°15.768' W065°36.567' Mar 27 Punta Medio Mundo
N18°15.297' W065°35.312' Mar 28 Isla Pineros
N17°55.084' W066°13.998' Mar 29 Cayos de Barco
N17°53.555' W066°31.695' Mar 30 Isla Muertos

PUERTO RICO

So it was on to a new country after leaving the British Virgin Islands, or should we say a new territory. Puerto Rico has been a territory of the US since they defeated Spain in the Spanish-American War of 1898. There is still a Spanish feel here and they have maintained their language in all aspects of life.

Coming from the Virgins, the first point of land in Puerto Rico was Isla Culebra. There it was immediately evident that we had left the charter fleets behind and the boaters were generally of the real cruising kind. We dropped anchor in the large bay and went ashore to complete our official check in which required a nice 1.5 km (1 mi) walk to the Customs office at the little airport.

Multi-coloured sights of Culebra town

The lone Custom officer's demeanor suddenly changed when we noted we had a cat on board. She went from being officiously pleasant to an outright exuberance, as though we were long lost relatives by virtue of feline commonality. I'm sorry, she said, but MY babies are the most beautiful cats in the world (she has 2). So out came the smart phones and we shared kitty pics. Not your typical US first line of empirical defense. Secret to bad guys: Enter this port with a kitty!

We wanted to visit Flamenco Beach, about 4.5 km (3 mi) out of town, which boasts being a top beach of the world. We tried to rent a golf cart, a popular means of getting around, but all were booked; it was a holiday weekend. So in the heat of the day, we started to walk and before long hitched a ride. It was definitely a beautiful beach, obviously an opinion that was shared by many - it was packed.

Flamenco Beach

Back at our anchorage, The Dinghy Dock Bar & Grill was THE place for boaters (and huge tarpon fish!) to hang out. At water's edge, it had recently received a new facelift after being beat up by Hurricane Maria of 2017.

A good metre in length

From there, we travelled a few hours west to a small island right offshore from the main big island of Puerto Rico. There we left Sea Turtle for the day at a badly damaged marina while we rented a car to view some sights on the main island that we accessed via the marina's free water taxi.

We first drove northwards to San Juan and through its modern sprawl to Old San Juan, its quaint old town section where the architecture of the buildings and the fort were most impressive, as well as the sinking blue ceramic cobblestone streets.

One of many

Pretty in pink

Pretty in blue

Old San Juan was the strategic base for centuries where events of the European occupation played out. There we toured the well preserved El Morro Fort that sits prominently on the point and where it protected the harbour.

Lounging lizard at fort

Guarding harbour entrance

For a complete change of pace and scenery, we spent the latter part of the day in the mountains as we drove a serpentine narrow road up into the rainforest of El Yunque park.  The waterfall was minimal due to lack of rain but we enjoyed distant views from a geographical high point and had a delightful picnic in nature's splendor before returning to Sea Turtle.

Park picnic

Anchorages;
N18°18.414' W065°17.837' Mar 22 Culebra (Ensenada Honda)
N18°20.218' W065°37.303' Mar 24 Isleta Marina (island)
N18°20.331' W065°37.270' Mar 25 Isleta Marina (marina)
N18°20.234' W065°37.301' Mar 26 Isleta Marina (island)