Maze of mangroves

We left Telaga Harbour of Langkawi Island (Malaysia) on March 28th at 14:30, arriving 4.5 hours later at the northeast corner of Langkawi Island (N06°27.433' E099°49.943'), near our destination of a place locally known at the Hole in the Wall.

We tucked into a very quiet anchorage, drinking in the beauty and serenity with only 1 other boat anchored, a trimaran from Canada. We noticed construction happening which appeared to be the making of an extension to the area.

The next morning, with computer and GPS in hand, we jumped in the dinghy to find the Hole in the Wall. Why a computer and GPS? This geopark area is a real maze of creeks and narrow gorges surrounded by gnarled mangroves and precipitous limestone karsts which are 480 million years old! So if we got lost, at least we would be able to find our way around and also our way back to Sea Turtle. Jordan only confirmed his navigation twice with the computer and we were spot on.

There were many tour boats with paying customers but we in our dinghy got the advantage of a free ride. Our first sighting was a sky full of majestic white and golden orange coloured eagles swooping with celerity down to the water, making it very difficult to capture them photographically.

As we continued onward, there were numerous troops of monkeys among the mangroves watching all the boats, staring back anxiously expecting handouts as everyone stopped for the perfect photo.

Mangrove monkey

We soon slowly went through a narrow man-made cut...

Cut through the karsts

We finally made it to the Hole in the Wall where on the cliffs of the entrance was a natural form resembling a human face.

Guarding the entrance

We pulled our dinghy up to one of several basic floating open-air restaurants all in a line. The one we stopped at had an interesting fish farm. Below in the water in nets were blue blooded horseshoe crabs with helmet shaped heads, LARGE grouper fish, local sting rays that would glide to the top of the water to be hand-fed, and many more varieties. The blood of horseshoe crabs is bright BLUE, not red, due to the presence of copper in their blood. This blood is presently worth $60,000 a gallon in the global industry for medical uses.

Crab's eye is dark spot at center (copied from internet)

What I found to be the most startling was a small fish called an archerfish. I have never heard of it before but Jordan has seen them on nature shows in the past. A employee of the fish farm would stick a piece of fish flesh to a board overhanging the water. The fish would circle around eyeing it up. Then with incredible accuracy, they would spit a shot of water up about a meter for a direct hit knocking it into the water where it would be gobbled up. Amazing!! What is intriguing to biologists is that light rays refract when they enter the water and somehow the archerfish naturally adjust its aim to compensate.

2 archerfish shooting at crickets (copied from internet)

We found our way back through the mangrove maze to Sea Turtle without the use of computer or GPS, and along the way, we also found a low tunnel (one of many tunnels and caves) that we dinghied through. Cool!

Nature's tunnel

It rained later in the evening, an indication of the rainy season that is slowly approaching...

Back on board

I spent 6 weeks back in Canada with family and friends where I even had the opportunity to go up to northern country to visit my Grandson and Great Granddaughter. She loves to have her photo taken, but my Grandson hates to have his taken!

More beautiful everyday

The weather back home was exceptionally good for winter time, but of course Jordan was in hot and humid Malaysia. When I arrived back on February 28th to the thick heat, I found walking only a couple of blocks exhausting and where time was the only means to acclimate.

But getting back out on the water and being back with my loving Captain was the most welcoming home coming. Jordan had anchored (N06°16.435' E099°43.663') conveniently close to the village, but many seadoos and motor boats pulling para-sailors speedily through the sky all about created agitated seas that rocked and rolled us till dusk. We soon decided it was time for quietude so we headed out to some ideal spots around the Langkawi archipelago.

March 6th arrived with sunlit seas and favourable winds as we sailed the entire 3 hours northward to Telaga Harbour (N06°21.717' E099°40.696').

Several boats were in the Harbour well protected by 2 small outer islets with sandy beaches. Nearby was a mock lighthouse that marked the narrow channel into the marina restaurants and other facilities. One evening on one of the little islets, we had a fire and potluck supper with fellow boaters. A little relaxing mellifluous guitar music by another boater provided some entertainment.

Occasionally the wind piped up, causing the sea to lave the shores with small agitated waves.

Ashore internet was available and was usually not too bad. We were unable to connect from Sea Turtle. Price was inexpensive at 5 Ringgits per 24 hours ($1.35) or even better at 18 Ringgits for an entire week ($4.87). Laundry service was available as well as several nice Harbour view restaurants, a store with basically "junk food" items, and a gas station. Other than that, Telaga is somewhat out of the way and with that it provides a certain calm atmosphere.

We found an area that had a badminton net set up under shade. We spent several early evenings batting the birdie back and forth and then quenching our thirst with delicious, tall, strong, 2 for 1 margaritas at a restaurant afterwards. This bit of exercise gave us a break from what was becoming a daily routine of just hanging out.

A couple of times we rented a motorscooter for the 15-minute ride to the small town of Peland or a little further to Kuah where we could find a good variety of groceries and supplies. In the park of Kuah, is a beautiful lily pond where the lilies were in bloom.

Even the bees found them attractive!

Island cruising

With me still back in Canada, Jordan and his visiting friend and author Rik continued their activities. As well as Langkawi Malaysia, they spent 3 days in the Thailand archipelago of the Butang Group, just a 7-hour sail away to the northwest out in the Andaman Sea.

There, the crystalline waters displayed an abundance of marine life making it an excellent diving destination. Jordan and Rik wanted to snorkel but unfortunately Rik had developed a condition with a symptom that gave him anxiety attacks when he attempted to snorkel. He succumbed to his fears but relaxed on board while Jordan took in the wonderment of the aqua environment...

2 corals dancing in the current

Shades of blue

As well as colourful coral (which isn't always around), fish were in abundance. An attention grabber was the lionfish with its display of feathery fins. It can live for 16 years and the male mates with several females whose eggs hatch in only 2 days. Those beautiful fins, though nice to look at, need respect as they are spiked with deadly poison so can't get too close for photos!

Sneaking up on the lionfish...

Quickly leaving the lionfish...

Of course, the cutest fish must be the clown fish aka Nemo from the movie! These 3 are swimming above their habitat of the sea anemone. Curiously, they are immune to the stings of the anemone.

Clowning around

At the quaint little beach village on Koh Lipe with its white sand beach as fine as flour, sea of sapphire, and pedestrian paths and alleys instead of roads, Jordan and Rik ambled from cafe to bar to massage spa.

After Rik's departure of the 19th, Jordan was once again alone with Sea Turtle, waiting for my return.

Visitor aboard

During my absence while I was back home in Canada, the 6-month time limit to have the boat in Thailand was due so Jordan sailed Sea Turtle from Phuket Thailand to Langkawi Malaysia. It took him 3 easy days in which he had winds to sail most of that. Each night he was able to rest at island anchorages along the way.

Jordan enjoyed the cornucopia of the green hued water below while sailing through Thailand before reaching Malaysia.

Bright blue fish

Did you know that moray eels can live for 10 to 30 years! This fish (not reptile) eats meat and likes to hide in crevices, but here he is peeking out at Jordan.

Secretive moray eel

These giant clams, once they fasten to a spot on a reef, are there for the rest of their lives. They come in such a variety of bright or mundane colours and patterns. They are male for a year and then possess both male and female reproductive organs, but they do not fertilize themselves!

A pair of giant clams

Once in Malaysia, his time was occupied with boat jobs, daily workouts, and regular routines all at the easy pace of the cruisers' clock.

During my time away, Jordan's friend and author, Rik, flew down from China for a 10-day sojourn to experience cruising life, wile away the hours in philosophic palaver, and catch up on old times. They hadn't seen each other for about 13 years.

Most of their time was spent around Pulau Langkawi where Jordan showed Rik the typical interesting sites including the SkyBridge perched high up on a peak, accessed by a cable car lift. (Last year when Jordan and I visited the SkyBridge, it was having maintenance work performed so unfortunately we could not access it - see our blog posting of July 18, 2014 titled Scooting around Langkawi.)

Spectacular SkyBridge

This sunset silhouetting Sea Turtle and 2 longtail boats is an example of the ending to many of the days for Jordan and Rik.

Sea Turtle at sunset

My Mother's Sunset

It was with great sadness for family and friends when we paid farewell to my beautiful, talented, and caring Mother on January 25, 2015. It is indeed our loss, but I am sure for my Mom, she is now at peace in Heaven where she will even be able to see once again! Her last days had been difficult but now she is with other loved ones singing with angels and having a grand time up above.

Roses were always Mom's favourite flower and I believe she is still enjoying them...

Roses Grow In Heaven

I believe Lord,

that roses grow in Heaven.

Please pick a bunch for us,

place them in our Mother's arms

and tell her they're from us.

Tell her we love and miss her,

and when she turns to smile,

place a kiss upon her cheek

and hold her for awhile.

Because remembering her is easy,

we do it every day.

But there's an ache within our heart

that will never go away.

So as roses grow in Heaven Lord,

please pick a bunch for us,

and place them in Mom's arms

and tell her they're from us.

So now we must accept her fate and continue till we meet once again...

Making repairs

We spent several days anchored at Patong Bay of Thailand and also doing a lot of errands ashore. We took our damaged spinnaker sail into Rolly Tasker Sails for repair and were quite surprised to discover that it was at the "thread bare" stage. It could be pulled apart with bare hands and was not able to be fixed.

We were offered the chance to choose from existing new stock - orders that had been made for other sailors but had never been picked up. We looked at the lot trying to find one that would fit our boat and were lucky enough to discover one that we snapped up at a greatly reduced price. It was a bit smaller than our old one but that was good because our old one had been a bit too big for Sea Turtle.

We had the sail loft also re-stitch our dodger and put in new zippers that had deteriorated over the last 5 years.

While still hanging out at Patong Beach, we also made arrangements for repairmen to come aboard and see if they could fix our refrigerator that had been acting up. Luckily, it was an easy fix for them and another problem solved for us.

The days were passing by and a rendezvous was planned at islands to the south for an old chum of Jordan's (who moved from Canada and is now living in China). I was receiving bad news from back home as my Mom's health was deteriorating and it came to a point where I decided to fly home and let Jordan host his friend.

Miang Island

Still at Miang Island (Thailand) and in search for more snorkel spots, we decided to take the dinghy around to the other side of the Island where hopefully there would be less people. On the side where we anchored, there were numerous dive boats all loaded with tourists coming for diving and snorkelling adventures.

And once around to the other side, there were no tourist boats, in fact, no boats at all - except us in our dinghy! We found a little tucked away cove where we anchored the dinghy and jumped in to check what was below the surface.

There was some nice cabbage patch coral spread out on the bottom that Jordan snorkelled down to as I tried to capture his photo...

Sunlight twinkling on Jordan and cabbage patch coral

And these beauties, all coming along in pairs...

2 by 2

There was also a sighting of beautiful soft coral, slowly swaying in the moving ocean current...

Soft coral of Miang

We left Miang Island early the next morning at 04:30 continuing back south where we anchored at Patong Bay of Phuket Island around 15:45 (N07°53.477' E098°17.075'). As expected at this tourist hot spot, there were noisy jet skis everywhere careening around large cruise ships, swimmers, and boat traffic. What a difference in ambiance!

Similans

Today we left the Surin Islands very early in the morning at 03:15 for an approximate 12-hour run south to the Similan Group of 9 marine park islands. Along the way, we briefly anchored by the Island of Tachai (N09°04.147' E097°49.141') for 2 hours for breakfast and a quick snorkel. A park boat came by asking us for a park fee, but relented when we assured them that we were making a short stop.

The brief visit was special as the water was so clear that it seemed as if we were floating in an emerald hued air. We indulged in the most pleasant aqua fauna display that we have seen in a long time, including a passing sea turtle with a remora fish hanging on for a free ride...

A sea turtle with a passenger

...and the patient photo pose of these normally shy angel fish.

2 angels (in background)

Swimming around, we looked back and saw our dinghy anchor just quietly sitting all alone in the sand and couldn't resist taking a quick shot of it...

Just waiting

Neither of us knew the name of this painted fish but it was sure hard to miss with its bright complementary colours of blue and gold! (We later found out it is a Powder-Blue Surgeonfish.)

No camouflage

After a great snorkel that made for the most pleasant serendipitous interlude to the long day's journey, we continued sailing to Miang Island, arriving at 15:00 (N08°34.154' E097°38.647'), 12 hours after leaving the Surins. The rocks ashore were very impressive where we were anchored and we soon jumped in the water for snorkelling around the Island and spotted colourful parrot fish. Do we ever get tired of snorkelling? NO WAY!

Sea Turtle

Parrot fish pose (on the left)

Later we met up again with Morning Glory. After sunset, we all went ashore and walked the interesting nature trail to the park facilities on the north shore and ate dinner in a beautiful natural setting. The late evening walk back along the trail revealed nocturnal frogs, and more interestingly, Pu Kai or "chicken crabs" that make a sound like a chicken!

Surins

To begin the New Year of 2015, we sailed out of Ko Phayam (northwest Thailand), heading southwest.

We had heard good reports about the Surin Islands and with that destination in mind, it was a pleasant downwind sail in a light to moderate breeze, a natural for our spinnaker sail. But in the sudden deployment, a section blew out! However we left it up to complete the run and would get it repaired back at Rolly Tasker's sail loft in Phuket. We have had this seldom used lightweight sail since leaving Victoria BC Canada over 5 years ago.

The waters were busy and we counted 27 fishboats as we sailed past them before anchoring in the clear waters of Surin Nua (N09°26.420' E097°51.427') on January 2nd.

The next morning, we met up with our friends aboard Morning Glory (who were moored in the next channel by Surin Tai) and we drift snorkelled between the 2 islands of Surin Nua and Surin Tai. There were many colourful fish and some coral; unfortunately some of the coral was not in the best condition but there was enough of the more pristine that made the swim well worthwhile.

After snorkelling, Jordan and I beached our dinghy on a quiet secluded small beach on Surin Tai for our private picnic lunch under the shade of a tree.

Swells from the Andaman Sea were rolling in and was making the anchorage for us a little uncomfortable, so for our last night (January 4th) at these small group of islands, we moved around to the channel close to Morning Glory and picked up a mooring ball for a smoother lay (N09°25.722' E097°51.327').

Normally we take mooring balls with a certain amount of suspicion of its unseen lower strength and integrity, however in this case all doubt had evaporated as the day before we saw 9 large fishing boats all tied to the same mooring ball (and apparently a few days previous there had been 14!) holding securely against a wind and current. So little Sea Turtle had nothing to worry about

Gang of fishing boats

Ko Phayam

We spent 6 nights anchored at the island of Phayam (northern Thailand) where we met new boaters and visited with old friends. Most of the folks we met were sailing with kids ranging from very young toddlers to older and wiser teenagers.

Throughout our days, it was interesting to watch the interaction of all the youngsters. We never saw any angry words, fighting, or sibling rivalry. In a setting like that, how could one not be in a happy mood?

An intriguing sight on Ko Phayam is the Hippy Bar. This unique bar is built entirely from floating debris collected after the terrible tsunami of 2004. Included are several adjacent buildings and even the front of a ship where one can relax overlooking the ocean sipping a relaxing juice or drink.

Several of the Hippy Bar structures viewed from dinghy

(Clicking on any photo will make it larger for better viewing if you wish.)

A close-up of Hippy Bar "ship" with Jordan onboard

On New Year's Eve, many of the boaters gathered onshore to watch the kids break open a pinata that many of them had helped to create. When it finally broke, there were gleeful exclamations as they all dove to retrieve the scattered treasure and share and trade their booty.

Sunset from Hippy Bar

After sunset, 6 hot air lanterns were lit on the beach and kids and adults watched them float high up into the night sky until they finally gave a few winks as their lights went out. It was very beautiful. The perfect night culminated over delicious meals at a beachside restaurant.

All in all, the days spent at Ko Phayam were a nice break from being in 1 spot at Phuket for so long.

Passage northwards

Poor Sea Turtle had been either anchored or moored in Chalong Bay of Phuket Island since our arrival in Thailand August 1, 2014. We were definitely getting the urge to be out on the water again after all of our air and land travels lately.

We finally departed our anchorage on December 24th for an Andaman Sea island called Koh Phayam which is up the west coast of Thailand across from Myanmar (formerly Burma). We were in no rush so decided not to do "overnighters".

It was a great start. We sailed right off our anchor and all the way to a quiet night stop off a beach about 500 m south of Naithon Beach (N08°01.601' E098°16.606') where we had a peaceful night. (FYI - Koh or Ko in Thai means island.)

Our only problem: the fridge stopped working. We did not want to turn around and return to Phuket and continued with hopes of finding ice along the way.

We left bright and early December 25th sailing again until the winds died mid-morning and we reluctantly resorted to the purr of the motor. A couple of hours later, we stopped at a port town where the navy has a post and where we could buy some ice. We experienced some non-typical Thai hospitality when our first greeting was from a scowling longtail boater who made rude gestures as he decided we were in his path, even though we were there first.

Our next greeting was from a very rude "gentleman" in charge at a tourist excursion facility ashore instructing us to move our dinghy immediately from the dock area where we had tied even though we had been given permission to park there by a worker.

Jordan said we would only be 10 minutes as all we needed was some ice. He continued to be rude saying no and to move now. So Jordan left to move the dinghy while I waited. The man then yelled out to me saying to never park there again. I angrily told him that we would never be back so not to worry about it. He graciously replied "Good."

Wow, what an introduction to a new town on Christmas Day. We quickly walked into town, bought several bags of ice, and left immediately, bidding good riddance, and sailed north.

We anchored for the night along a shoreline at N08°43.200' E098°13.466'.

Our next day was uneventful as we motored with no wind and we anchored on the back side of Ko Ra in a slight drizzle as we watched several fishboats heading out for their nightly catch (N09°14.433' E098°18.795').

In the morning, we once again motored as no wind, arriving at our destination of Ko Phayam on December 27th (N09°45.598' E098°24.242'). It was exciting to see several other sailboats at the same anchorage, some that we knew. It had been a long time since we had that ideal cruising venue.

Another beautiful sunset

Home again

With a visit to Cambodia foiled, we decided to make the long run back to Sea Turtle in Phuket Thailand and leave a visit to Cambodia for another trip, maybe to coincide with a future necessary Visa run. So we first had to retrace our Laos path heading back north, before heading for Chong Mek (about 80 km east of Ubon Ratchathani), the nearest border crossing back into Thailand.

It felt good to be back in Thailand where we find it more comfortable. We think Thai food is better and maybe even a little cheaper, the people are super friendly (it's known as The Land of 1,000 Smiles), and more English is spoken.

Our route heading south in Thailand had us staying at Chok Chai, passing through Bangkok to cute Hua Hin where we have stayed previously, and at a quiet beach bungalow just past Chompson. The roads had several fully loaded trucks carrying sugar cane.

A lot of sweetness

After 27 days on the road travelling through all parts north in Thailand and the whole length of Laos, we made it back to Chalong Bay of Phuket Island on December 20th where Sea Turtle, our mobile ocean home, welcomed us back on board.

CAMBODIA?

Today we were really excited about crossing into another country that neither of us had ever been to before: Cambodia. So we were shocked when we were about to exit Laos and a Lao border guard stated that we would not be able to take our motorcycle into Cambodia!

From what we read and heard, we thought he might be mistaken so Jordan decided to walk across the border to talk with the Cambodian Customs to get it from the horse's mouth. We were informed that if we didn't have a pre-approval certificate to allow the vehicle to enter, which was only attainable at the Customs office in the Cambodia capital of Phnom Penh, then we could not enter with the motorcycle.

He said we would have to bus 12 hours to Phnom Penh, go through the process of getting the necessary vehicle entry approval documentation (and he couldn't say how long that would take), and then return with the papers to then be allowed to enter with the motorcycle. That was not an option for us, so searching for a solution or a caveat, Jordan argued that we own the motorcycle and we have all the papers as proof, but that was immaterial. They were all very pleasant about it and matter of fact, but the laws were clear to them.

It was very discouraging to have to turn around (it was a simple U-turn as we had not checked out of Laos) and head back about 150 km to the town of Paksan that we had been at 3 days ago.

Scary ferry

Have you ever taken a mode of transportation that you have been just a little bit leery of? Well, we encountered such a situation in southern Laos when we decided to cross the Mekong River to Khong Island - 1 of 4,000 river islands!

Upon arriving late in the afternoon to a riverside village, we could see the island that we wanted to go to across the waters. There, a man approached quickly and said that he could take us and the motorcycle over to Khong. He directed Jordan to drive the motorcycle to the river's edge and then across a precarious wooden gangplank onto his twin-hulled tiny boat, the condition of which matched the plank!

Would the gangplank and the boat's deck boards hold the weight? The owner exuded great confidence, so as directed, Jordan eased the bike onboard. Once secure, we shoved off for the trip across the mild waters towards the setting sun.

Mekong ferry

On arrival, the fare was paid, then Jordan made his disembarkment across the gangplank, and keeping his revs and momentum up, climbed the short steep path up to the road. Only 3 of the 4,000 islands are permanently inhabited with Khong being the largest at 8 km by 17 km. There was a good variety of suitable guesthouses so we had a quick check-in.

Balcony view of the Mekong

Khong may be the largest of the islands but there is very little to do except chill out. It was a nice break from constant motorcycle riding.

The morning sunrise added a tranquil glow to a serene river setting with the early morning fishermen.

Early morning on the Mekong

After breakfast, we checked out and did a tour around the Island on its rough, narrow roads. Once again, our rear luggage carrier made a getaway, jumping off its rack and crashing to the road. We found a little shop, and after some drilling and extra bolting, had the latch secure.

We discovered there is a new bridge from the south end of the Island back to the mainland of Laos but we were glad that we took the alternate/original way on the scary ferry. It was much more of an adventure than a boring bridge!

To southern Laos

Leaving Phonsavan (Laos) again on our motorcycle, we backtracked westward before turning south towards Vang Vieng, our day's destination. As we started our descent out of the high mountain area, we passed a group of monolithic mountains that are synonymous with quintessential Asian scenery.

Lofty peaks

We passed a number of other adventure bikers this day, many who rent bikes in the capital and head up through the area.

Eventually we entered a scenic fertile valley nutured by a lazy river and framed by large limestone mountains where we found Vang Vieng. The more active and energetic traveller favours this place for its river kayaking, trekking, and caving activities in the immediate area.

Languorous valley

The following few days in Laos presented us less noteworthy experiences as we continued our southerly travels towards Cambodia.

Our advance and ride into the capital of Laos, Vientiane, was from the north and it was a dirty, dusty approach. The north sector seemed to be more industrial and roadwork and many of the offshoot roads presented bare red dirt surfaces that created a gritty atmosphere. There were a few scenes of culture once in the area, like the riverfront esplanade and the replica of sorts of the Arc de Triomphe of Paris which is called the Patuxai.

Copycat arch

In our old Lonely Planet guide, we had read about a remote wild elephant observation tower facilitated by a humble village, so we deviated to find the experience. Expecting to find groups of like minded, we hardly found anyone around, villagers or otherwise.

So we ventured off the beaten path, past the sign that ominously read Enter at own risk to find the tower in the jungle. The trail soon morphed into an intrepid adventure of wit, will, and endurance. We got lost in valley deep rutted trails, crossing creeks, and playing chicken with a herd of water buffalo before finally beating a defeated retreat back to the village with only a couple of battle scars to our iron horse.

Retreating buffalo

Back at the village, we finally found someone who spoke enough broken English to inform us No elephants now. Gone, one month ago. Dry season, gone way back to jungle.

(Later that evening, with the help of the internet, we discovered more accurately that in fact NO elephants have been sighted in that area since 2010. Apparently there was a confrontation between a marauding elephant and villagers resulting in 1 villager dead, and in retaliation, a dead elephant. Needless to say, the elephants moved on at the detriment of tourist income to the residents. So much for depending on out of date books for possible activities.)

We continued on the road from the capital, following the Mekong River south which for the most part formed the natural Thai/Laos border. Now in the lower altitude regions, the land and roads became flat and monotonous.

The farther south we went, we noticed a dried out and scrubby land where it appeared the locals had forsaken their rice paddies in exchange for cattle that wandered in abundance unhindered on road and properties. Besides dodging potholes, we were now dodging cowpies. As well as all the new members of the animal kingdom! Calves, chicks, kids (baby goats - not children), small puppies, and even little kittens - all adorably cute. At 1 point, we also tried to avoid a cloud of butterflies that suddenly appeared from out of nowhere directly into our path.

Occasionally the roadside vendor stands broke the scenery. Oranges 1 day stacked high like pyramids on table after table, another day was bananas, then dried fish, then watermelons. Everyone had the same, how can they sell all their wares when they all have the same and are all right next to each other?

We spotted 1 banana seller who also had a couple of pineapples so we stopped for a small bunch of bananas and a pineapple which we ate right on the spot (as everyone else tried to sell us more of their product!) The sweet juicy pineapple was the best we have ever tasted!

1 of many stands

Ordering food at roadside eateries was always a challenge. Most times we settled for soup. One lady was a happy vendor and quizzed us on how to pronounce in English the different denominations of Lao currency as she wrote out our slow verbal pronunciation. As we departed, she jovially blew us a kiss. Not a Lao expression but no doubt something she learned from a previous foreigner.

A few areas in southern Laos were covered in unsightly garbage all along the roadside ditches and right next to towns. This was something we never noticed in northern Laos.

Plain of Jars

From Luang Prabang (Laos), we headed east on our motorcycle to see the curious ancient relics known as the Plain of Jars which reminded us of the mysterious Easter Island stone statues.

The first half of our day's travel there was in beautiful high altitude mountains, and in spots, we climbed right up into the clouds...it was a biker's dream ride!

Mountain mist

Eventually the road and land settled into an easy, flat, high altitude plain of rolling hills hills and grasslands. Chilled, we were happy to check into our dibs for a nice hot shower.

We spent the first part of the next morning bouncing over very rough and dusty dirt roads getting to 3 sites where the megalith stone jars sit, frozen in a mute stance as they have been for many hundreds of years.

Site 1

Site 2

Site 3

During the US war in neighbouring Vietnam, the conflict crossed the border into Laos. For a period of 9 years, the US dropped an average of a plane load of bombs every 8 minutes for 24 hours per day in Laos. There were at least 270 million cluster bomblets dropped as part of the bombing but 80 million failed to detonate.

We were in an area that received the most concentrated bombing and the effects are still seen today. MAG is just 1 of many entities whose mission is clearing land of UXO (unexploded ordinances) that plague the land. By 1 estimate, at the rate of clearing it will take 300 years to complete. Bomb craters were visible as we walked the site. (Yes, this site was cleared and safe of UXOs as indicated within the MAG markers.)

Mines Advisory Group

Huge bomb crater

Anthropologists agree that in all probability the jars served as vessels for the placement of deceased. It is possible that any lids made were of perishable materials as very few have been found; stone discs have been found but are believed to be grave markers.

That's all well and good, but Jordan has his own hypothesis:

It actually was a failed, unperfected, entrepreneurial venture many many years ahead of its time. It was an endeavour to make culverts. But the entrepreneur not only didn't do a thorough market study that would have told him that there was no market for the product, but he also hadn't perfected the "culvert". That came many years later when they realized culverts must be open at both ends. I formed this hypothesis (that I will present to the Society of Anthropologists soon) when quite by chance we came upon this scene in a field...

Modern day Plain of Jars

You be the judge.

Luang Prabang

Our next destination: Luang Prabang (Laos). After backtracking westward a bit on our motorcycle, we turned and headed south until we met up again with the mighty Mekong River.

Luang Prabang's popularity as a tourist destination has grown since obtaining a UNESCO heritage classification, and for good reason. Perched on the banks of the Mekong, its quaint centre has a European charm left over from the French occupation. Sidewalk cafes and boutique shops encourage leisurely stroll.

Downtown day scene

Come evening, back alleys come alive with a salmagundi of food vendors; elbow-to-elbow hungry buyers jockey for the night's tasty delights.

The evening hails an end to normal traffic on the main street as well and it is hastily transformed into a crafts and wares region with a myriad of vendors.

The following morning, we visited the grounds of the Royal Palace Museum (formerly the Royal Palace), where there is a very elaborate Royal Temple. I tried to snap a photo of the inside of it, but was told that no photos were allowed, except for the outside of the Temple. We also walked through the Museum and had to turn in our camera as again no photos were allowed.

Royal Temple

We continued to the much glorified Tam Ting Caves that hang on limestone cliffs that rise right out of the Mekong. Access was through the Village of Pak Ou, 20 km upstream from Luang Prabang. Most tourists take boats from town for the upstream trip arriving right at the caves. But having our own ride, we drove up to the Village of Pak Ou and then hired a small river boat to take us across to the caves.

The caves' attraction are their 4,000 Buddha figures that have been placed there over many years by various Buddhist visitants of all status from humble to royal. Placed in almost every available perch of the upper cave and lower cave, the figures gaze out towards the Mekong and range in size from thimble to more than human.

Silhouette

Bunch of Buddhas

On the way back to Luang Prabang, we stopped at Whiskey Village. There, the locals have been making whiskey and wines from rice, and in more recent years, have found a market for their spirits with the tourists. "Creatively" presented, some bottles have creepy crawlies pickled in the firewater, other bottles have a hand wicker coat.

Whiskey still

Also, many of the villagers had row upon row of hand- and machine-made scarves, blankets, table covers, handbags, etc. Overwhelming. TOO much to choose from.

Drying dyed yarn

With a little daylight time left, we squeezed in 1 more site, Kouang Si Waterfall. We weren't expecting much but as we started up the trail that wound through the jungle trees, we were pleasantly surprised to see picturesque streams and pools of turquoise waters that cascaded in steps as far up as we could see. Continuing up, we were met with a magical serendipitous moment as we came face to face with an amazing fairytale worthy waterfall.

Waterwheel fall

Fairytale fall

We finished the day by again joining the evening throngs strolling the vendor stalls in town centre.

Busy day and evening...off to slumber...