Family time

After my daughter and son-in-law (Lainey and Tim) arrived in Phuket Thailand, they soon had their touristy to-do list made out that we followed along with. At first, our stay at quiet Nai Thon Beach was relaxing but we found it a little out of the way of most of the venues on the list, so we relocated to the heart of busy Patong Beach which was more centralized.

Elephant trekking was on the list but we were all very concerned about patronizing any facility that didn't treat these majestic creatures with proper care. We had seen many that exhibited signs of stress by swaying and rocking while confined by short leg chains. We chose a facility after a recommendation by Lonely Planet and after making an inspection.

We first hand-fed the gentle pachyderms bananas that they politely reached and took with perfect dexterity by their pink mottled trunks. One youngster reached down and undid the Velcro strap on Jordan's sandal as slick as a magician.

Yummy, bananas!

We moved to and fro high on the backs of the lumbering creatures while the Thai mahouts (driver of an elephant) perched behind the elephants' ears gently prodded them on. The 1-hour trek took us through a tropical forest where we were at eye level and arm's length to tree snakes, huge fuzzy caterpillars, and humongous spiders. At 1 point about half way while weaving through the rubber trees, the 2 mahouts dismounted and let Jordan and Tim take their place to guide the lumbering giants back home.

New drivers

One evening, we attended a Muay Thai boxing competition. This uniquely Thai sport uses hands, shins, elbows, and knees - 8 points of contact compared to 2 points (fists) of Western boxing. Later we were dismayed to learn that we supported a sport where Thailand's estimated 30,000 child boxers can be as young as only 7.

No one wears protective head gear in this tough contact sport, so one's career can be marked by brain damage and even lead to early-onset dementia. But like the not uncommon canine cuisine of Asia, it is a proud part of their culture.

Ziplines were on the to-do list and it proved a good choice. It took us most of 1 day. It started and ended with an intrepid 4x4 jungle drive to the top of a high forested ridge. After climbing a steep ladder to a high tree deck, we started zipping at lofty heights. The 18 different exhilarating ziplines, connected with swinging bridges and precipitous ladders, left Lainey's nerves frayed and heart racing. Before heading back, we were served lunch within a bamboo gazebo with a view to the coast far below.

Who's next!

Steady now...

And down to the next one...

Jordan and Tim couldn't turn down the opportunity to elevate their adrenalin levels by racing high speed go-carts on a challenging track. They had the carts flat out like mad bumble bees, drifting through the corners and pushing them to the point of spinning out!

Another venue included a Gibbon monkey rehabilitation refuge where residents in cages with sad stories were coaxed back to a natural existence. And 1 day when stopping at an outdoor cafe, Lainey was enthralled by a baby monkey who seemed to want to hang out with her. She was able to feed it coconut, hold onto its soft gentle paws, and it even jumped up onto her back - giving her a big surprise!

Where did you go!

We also spent a day at Phi Phi Island. As we did not have Sea Turtle with us, we hired a speed boat for the adventure. Firstly, we stopped for a couple of quick snorkels where the water was unfortunately not the clearest. Upon arriving at Phi Phi with the swarms of other tourist boats loaded of course with swarms of tourists, we spread out on recliners with a frosty cold one till it was time to return to Phuket Island.

People and boats...

Of course then, there was the shopping, the dining, pool lounging, and beach strolling as fill ins.

Patong Beach is known for its beach scene where throngs of all types stroll or lay in beach recliners and under umbrellas, many with a drink in hand watching the parasailers soar and jet skis buzz (jet skis were ruled illegal in Phuket, but no one told the operators it seems).

Patong is also known for its throbbing night life that could be called "little Bangkok". One street becomes a packed pedestrian-only strip at night where a plethora of mind bending scenes compete for attention.

Unbelievable night life

Open air bars are predominant replete with scantily dressed, gyrating pole dancers grinding it out to entice the strolling spectators in for a drink (or more). Street performers working their stuff. Ladies of the night trolling for affection (and more), preferably with a rich farang of any age or shape, share the scene with a prodigious amount of lascivious lady-boys that could fool the best of us.

What's a farang, you say? A farang is a term used for a white person who comes to Thailand from another country (and can sometimes be used derogatorily).

Of course, there are the ever-present massage parlours both respectful and others with the "happy ending". On the last day, Jordan chose the former that emphasized stretches and was more a work-out than a relaxation. And on our last evening, Tim decided to try out 1 of the "fish foot cleaners". We had also seen them in Bali but never tried them! Tim thought it felt ticklish and very weird indeed.

Foot fun

We opted out on other to-do things that the "kids" went for such as a shooting range, cobra show, tiger petting, parasailing, and ATV riding. Instead, we scouted out some marina facilities that we might want once we get up here with Sea Turtle.

We also were able to intercept the Pea Green Book that we sent off almost 5 years ago for its around the world voyage (but that's another story you can read about on www.peagreenbook.blogspot.com).

Normally, we are not inclined towards the typical tourist attractions but it was fun to share in them with family.

Wat Chalong and Big Buddha

Visiting glorious Thailand for 2 weeks, with Sea Turtle still in Malaysia, we decided to explore the island on our rented motor-scooter and see what we could find.

The next day, still on our own, we were heading towards 2 southern beaches. Generally, Phuket's west side has pockets of touristy beaches connected with scenic winding roads. In contrast, the east side is a busy commercial built-up area.

Along the way, we spotted an elaborate Buddhist temple compound, Wat Chalong. Buddhism is the predominant faith in Thailand and this is the largest and most ornate of Phuket's Buddhist temples. There, devotees performing 1 of various rituals, pasted gold leaf in hushed reverence, to 2 statues in the main hall where residuals of the glitter ended up on the floor, and our feet!

Ornate temple

Sticking gold leaf to statues

Another diametrical ritual that broke the quiet ambiance was the exploding string of firecrackers inside a courtyard brick oven-like structure, the significance of which eluded us.

Off in the distance perched high on a hill was the prominent Big Buddha that had its eyes on Phuket Town below and most of the southern part of the Island. Signs vectored us to the steep 6 km road to the top.

The gigantic Big Buddha is 45 m tall and 25 m wide at the base and is made of reinforced concrete with Burmese marble overlay. This impressive and revered landmark is a work in progress that started about 10 years ago by a wealthy devotee and to date is about 75% complete (rebar evident around base). Along the stairs leading up to the base and around Big Buddha are thousands of brass bells, tinkling in the breeze, displayed as tokens of recognition of individual donors for the construction.

Big Buddha

From the top, we admired stunning vistas; and from the bottom, Jordan rubbed a brass gong that echoed amazing sounds far off into the distance.

Next stop, off to the airport to pick up the "kids"...

Playing tourist in THAILAND

Our repaired auto-pilot finally arrived and Jordan got it all installed, making us pretty much ready to sail to our next destination, Thailand. But we had another conflicting commitment that came with a dreaded deadline that prevented us from leaving.

You see, we broke from 1 of our rules of sailing conduct (in regards to meeting with visitors) which is "You can meet us wherever you like, or whenever you like, but not both." We promised to meet my daughter Lainey and her husband Tim on June 10th in Thailand but their arrival date had come too soon for us to make it up there with Sea Turtle. So, we decided to fly up and play tourist with them for 2 weeks.

So Jordan and I caught a bus from Malaysia to Singapore on June 8th, and less than 2 hours later, we landed in Phuket Thailand. It had been smokin' hot in Malaysia and we found it to be slightly cooler in Phuket, only 30°C!

This was my first time ever in Thailand but Jordan had been before so he was my own private tour guide!

We were immediately approached by several cab drivers, all demanding exorbitant fees of 1,000 Baht, equal to about $30 for what Jordan knew to be a 10-minute ride. We refused but finally settled for 500 Baht which was still too much. We were dropped off at Nai Thon Beach, a quiet seaside village where Jordan had stayed in the past.

Before finding a room, we got our bearings over our favourite Thai dish (Pad Thai) at a beachside restaurant as we were serenaded by the turquoise surf with the compliments of a refreshing breeze.

Adjusting to the Thai scene

We didn't pre-book any accommodation as it was not only low season, but tourism was down significantly because of the military coup of the dysfunctional government, We easily found nice bungalows for $25 a night and arranged for motor-scooter rental for $10 a day.

As we had arrived a couple of days ahead of our visitors, we took the opportunity to cross across Phuket Island to find our friends on Morning Glory who were working on their boat. After about a half hour ride, we met up with them and traded stories over yet another beachside restaurant.

Do we still have the kid in us?

Do you know how you can tell when we are getting bored by being stuck in one place too long, like here for a few months now in Danga Bay, south Malaysia? Well, it's when we make it an event to spend a day at Legoland!

So off we go. First we had to catch a bus to city center then find a bus that would take us to Legoland. The buses, many privately run, gather like flies on roadkill at 3 different areas in the city. As the mercury rose, we traipsed around, back and forth, up and down, trying to find THE bus and finally at the last bus congregation, a convivial porter with a subtle head wiggle and accent that revealed his Indian ancestry, pointed to a vacant spot and said with a proud grin, "Yes, yes, over there."

"But there is no bus there!" Jordan said axiomatically.

"Yes, it just left 5 minutes ago" he said as though that would be a satisfactory solution to our travelling plans.

With about an hour wait for the next bus and as the morning was history, we grabbed a quick cheap lunch while waiting in the bus area. As we returned to the place that was once vacant of bus and riders, we found in fact the right bus but it was packed and we were relegated to the aisle, positioned like vertical sardines.

There was no turning back now as we lurched away from the platform. "Why am I singing this song in my head - I'm off to see the wizard...?"

A half hour later, a colourful looming structure appeared with large letters on top that said LEGOLAND Hotel. (Legoland opened in Malaysia in 2012, being the first 1 in Asia, and the Hotel was opened in 2013.)

I said to Judy "I might be wrong but I think we are here." But of course, that's a statement that makes little sense since one could say that at any point in one's life and it would be true!

Welcome to Legoland!

The entry fee of about $35 US each was paid, and as we approached the turn-styles, it was about this time that we noticed some stares were in our direction. Looking over our shoulders and around, it was becoming apparent that we saw no other adults unaccompanied by children. "What does this mean?"

Undaunted and looking for a blog subject matter that might give our time in this area some interest, we soldiered on. At first, we saw only a hint of Lego in the occasional Lego statue or facade. It was mostly like any other ho-hum amusement park with only a vague Lego theme where the types of rides and attractions only patrons of the munchkin type found exciting.

Einstein and Jordan - 2 smart men

We finally found some redemptive grace in Legoland though when we came to the central area of Miniland where, for us at least, was the best part. Displayed were various Lego built replicas and models of iconic Asian cities and sites. I felt like Gulliver on the lookout for Godzilla.

Mosque (moving boat in foreground, real people in background)

Singapore ferris wheel with Lego people below it

The displays were very complex and intricate, taking thousands of parts each to build. One exhibit had a 5.5-m cruise ship, weighing 376 kg. It has 131,000 Lego bricks and 198 LED lights that took the Lego model builder 1 year to complete. For an idea of its size, those are real people in the background.

It lights up at night

Another had a 10-m tall Lego replica of the famous twin-towered, 88-storied Petronas Towers of Kuala Lumpur (542,000 Lego bricks, 1 year with 15 builders totalling 5,500 hours). These Lego-built Towers are the tallest buildings in all Legolands throughout the world.

Jordan and the Twins

Other large sites included the Kuala Lumpur Airport and the famous Great Wall of China, India's Taj Mahal, and Cambodia's Angkor Wat.

Before leaving, we strolled the lobby of the Hotel, where to the delight of the youngsters, they had access to heaps of Legos to play and create with, only restrictions being the limits of their imaginations.

And naturally, the walls had art work made entirely of Legos and the back wall behind the expansive reception desk, upon close inspection, was made up of over 12,000 miniature Lego figures (doctor, fireman, butcher, etc.)

Okay then, that wasn't so bad. We actually came away feeling just a little bit younger.

Carpe diem

As we were sitting in the cockpit of Sea Turtle, I asked Judy if we might be forgetting to share with our blog reader some of our quieter pleasant moments that we may be taking for granted.

Yes, our readers can travel vicariously through the blog, sharing in our peripatetic adventures and interesting encounters by depiction in words and pictures.

But what about the simple serene but no less impressive moments like this near perfect evening. A setting that some people would give their eye teeth for.

It was later in the afternoon when we returned to Sea Turtle at the marina after a busy day of errands. We both picked up our books and took up a comfortable spots in the cockpit to unwind. But as the sun began to set, we stopped our reading and looked around to enjoy once again the serenity of time and place,

So now, we invite you, our readers, into the cockpit for a visit and to enjoy with us what has become a not so uncommon part of our lives.

"Come aboard. We just pulled out of the fridge a cool bottle of Argentine Vino Blanco wine. Would you like a glass? It will go down well in the fading heat.

And you are here just in time to enjoy the sunset with us. Here is a cushion.

My favourite time of day is when I have my coffee in the cockpit in the early morning and then again like now in the evenings at sunset.

Those boats chugging along over in the distance? Yes, they are heading back from a day of dredging up the channel. In a few minutes, when their wake finally makes its way to us, you will feel a gentle rocking, a soothing sensation no doubt ingrained in us from infancy.

If you are lucky, later when heading up the pier, you might be lucky enough to see large butterflies perched about as we have seen the last few nights. But yes of course, I understand you are in no hurry to leave right now.

Look now guys! The sky is aglow with the setting sun. Isn't it neat how the silhouette of the sailboat rigging provides an interesting contrast?

It's so nice to have you here for this short visit. Carpe diem, no?"

So this is the other side of adventure. Simple. But it's just as memorable. We mustn't forget to share it with you from time to time.

"Come again soon!"

Last tour

After missing our train from Danang back to Hanoi (North Vietnam) the night before, we caught an early morning flight to Hanoi on the 18th. The next morning, we were pre-booked to go to the Perfume Pagoda which is about 65 km by car from Hanoi.

The frenetic hustle and bustle of Hanoi melted away as the 2-hour mini tour bus ride ushered us out into a genteel rural setting. Upon arrival at the river bank, 6 of us loaded into a small boat for a 45-minute ride up the lazy river. The little tourist boats were powered exclusively by women rowers.

Women power

The dramatic scenery was a contrast of verdant geographical features. There was a congruous transition from river to tranquil lotus ponds and rice paddies that were abruptly halted by impressive steep limestone cliffs and hills.

Dramatic peaks

It was extremely hot and humid out but we had relief under the shade of our umbrella.

In the shadows at river's edge, we saw unusual small tombs. Our guide explained that Buddhists are placed in water tombs upon death and then about 3 years later, the bones are removed and cleaned then placed in aboveground tombs. Buddhists are never buried in the ground. The customs, beliefs, and practices related to afterlife of the world's motley cultures are as contrasting as the earth's geography.

Up the river, we disembarked then hiked up broad paths and a multitude of steps to the Heaven Kitchen Pagoda and the adjacent lunch stop.

1 of several

Once re-energized by lunch and refreshing frosty cold drinks under the welcomed fan breeze, we continued our climb up towards the cable car station platform. Along the way, we passed vendors of everything imaginable, even animals in tiny cages. (As a practice, sympathetic buyers could release the critters for merits relating to nature and freedom. But the sad futility of the practice was that many of the creatures were recaptured and resold.)

Free Willy!

Next, we had the choice to continue walking all the way up to the Perfume Pagoda or take the easy way via cable car. We didn't hesitate yielding to good advice and opted for the latter.

The easy way

Once at the top, we descended the 120 stone steps into the Cave of Fragrant Traces. Named so because of all the burning incense?? Probably not, but there was a lot of it placed on the shrines!

Down we go

In the Cave, we encountered slippery, uneven steps. There were places for those who wished to worship the many idols and touching the stalagmites was believed to promote fertility. Also present was a bell over a metre tall moulded in 1655.

Cave shrines

During an annual festival, this place is crowded with thousands of pilgrims as it is considered a spiritual and holy place. Shrines were surrounded with candles and incense as well as fruit, flowers, cookies, and yup, even Oreos. Thankfully we were here in the off season because we're not a big fan of crowds.

On our return down river, we were trailed by another rowboat with 2 jovial women constantly trying to sell us cold drinks, snacks, or souvenirs. Many Vietnamese wear long pants and long sleeves even in hot weather. Apparently they desire the white porcelain look of Chinese, not the tanned look that Westerners seek.

Happy river vendors

Back at the hotel in Hanoi, we were served a special culinary treatment by the staff who gave us a hands-on course making spring rolls that we then savoured as part of a delicious multi-course meal.

In the morning, after saying goodbye to the Rising Dragon Estate Hotel staff (aka Serenity Hotel) and gracious Anh who treated us royally during our stays in Hanoi, we flew back to Malaysia and Sea Turtle.

Till we meet again!

Historic Hoi An

At noon on May 15th, we caught a bus for a short 5-hour ride south from Hue, through Danang to Hoi An (North Vietnam). It was a nice but unusual bus. There were 2 aisles with 3 rows of seats stacked 1 above the other. The seats were more recliners than seats and 1 could not adjust them to the fully upright position for lack of headroom. It was just "lay back and enjoy the ride."

Hoi An is a delightful town with a rich history of ancient merchants from Asia to Europe, trading exotic wares from their shops for markets around the globe. This town, unlike Hue, escaped any destruction from US bombings and today is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The buildings in the old sector were originally the small trading houses that the denizens built shoulder to shoulder with a noticeable European architectural flair. Now most are neat and classy shops and restaurants catering to the tourists.

European influence

The narrow streets of the old town are off limits to any vehicles, only pedestrians allowed. The best time is when the heat of the day gives way to the cool evening and it brings out residents and visitors alike that maunder along the canal promenades and bridges, cameras a clickin' and all to the delight of the local proprietors.

Handcrafted lanterns hanging everywhere

Back in the 1590s, the Japanese constructed an arched bridge across Hoi An's small canal to connect them to the Chinese traders. The covered bridge is a big tourist draw and was constructed with 2 monkeys at 1 entrance and 2 dogs at the other. Why? One tale says many emperors were born in the Years of the Monkey or Dog. Another tale says the bridge was started in the Year of Monkey and completed in the Year of the Dog.

On May 16th, we joined a full bus for a 45-minute ride into the hills to visit the archaeological site of My Son (pronounced Me Sone - rhymes with Bone). There we hiked through the cleared jungle to see ancient temple ruins discovered by the French about 100 years ago. Before that, they lay hidden and undiscovered for 300 years.

1 of many temples

What is most striking is that these structures were built of bricks without mortar. Each brick fit flat and snug with nary a crack between.

Craftsmanship of years ago

Before the French left, they absconded with choice busts, and sadly the site was bombed by the US trying to rout out the Viet Cong during the war. But enough was there to appreciate what it would have been like in its heyday.

Jordan with headless Buddha

Later that day back at the old town, we visited a shop that taught and produced the most elaborate and intricate pictures done by embroidery. So meticulously detailed were they that one had to get up close to see that they weren't framed photos. This was the best work we had seen.

And upstairs, they sold silk garments and they actually had the various stages of the live silk worms' growth and development. We saw how the workers stripped the cocoons' fine silk strands, about 15 at a time, to make 1 thread.

Making silk thread from cocoons

Silk worms eating mulberry leaves

Most of Hoi An's activities happen on the canal front. That is where the bustling and colourful market is and is run mostly by the local women.

Market activity

Occasionally we would see elderly with dark stained mouths from chewing betel nut, an Asian habit that provides a mild stimulant with a fresh peppery taste, but also causes oral cancer. With her colourful smile, she was selling supposedly "ancient" coins along the sidewalk.

Betel nut beauty

Boats abound. Fishing, transportation, and tours...

Along the riverfront

Motorcycle ferry

In the early evening, it was time to head back north. We caught a 1-hour shuttle bus to deliver us to the Danang train station for our overnight train ride back up to Hanoi. Only problem was, the booking agent received the wrong time for us to board from the train station and we missed our train by 12 hours! We lost our fare and not only that, all the trains were booked for a couple of days.

As it was getting late, we booked into a Danang hotel, went online, and booked a flight for the next morning to Hanoi. We have learned long ago to roll with the punches and duck the unexpected curve balls that intrepid travelling throws at you. C'est la vie.

Hue

With a few days remaining on our trip to North Vietnam, we decided to take an extemporaneous trip south on May 13th and check out a couple of towns that sounded interesting.

We chose an overnight train that once again left Hanoi at 23:00 for a 12-hour ride to Hue (pronounced "Way" with a slight H sound in front). Hue is the former capital of Vietnam - now it is Hanoi. Scudding along rails in the last few hours, we were presented with some beautiful scenery of meandering rivers bordered by the pervasive rice paddies with backdrops of towering limestone hills.

View from train

The City of Hue is bisected by the 80-km long Huong River (aka Perfume River). The nickname derives from all the flowers that fall into it which give it a nice aroma. Our hotel was on the south side, a couple blocks off the River.

After our midday check-in, we hiked across the bridge to the north half of the City and to the old citadel (Imperial City) of the last reigning dynasty. The walls of the citadel, 10 km long and 2 m thick, are still intact as is most of the surrounding moat.

Bridge over moat to citadel

Within the outer walls is the intact walled compound of the late dynasty surrounded by a 2nd moat. Restoration work is being done to its walls and the vestigial buildings within. The sinecure dynasties reign ended in mid 1900 and on display were many old photos that showed the privileged lives of the nobility and their ample entourage in an exquisite setting while the masses bestowed a reverence worthy of gods.

Inside royal courtyard

Vietnam to spend $61 million to restore the citadel by 2015!

Later in the afternoon, we got a guided tour ride back to our hotel by an informative rickshaw pilot. He told Jordan to sit in the back in the King's position, while I was to sit in front, the Queen's position!

The Queen and King

After a refreshing heat extracting shower, we headed over to a luxury hotel and caught the elevator to the 16th floor rooftop bar to watch a resplendent sunset bring in the night.

From there, we walked to a popular touristy street and found the Why Not? bar next to the Why Not? hotel beside the Why Not? restaurant where Jordan had learned that a pool table existed. Being a pretty good player, he thoroughly impressed his opponents.

What we noticed in Hue, as well as most all places in Vietnam, was the unusual and prolific habit of face masks to protect against the environment. Some take it to the extremes like the 2nd photo below where a local jokingly said they were from another planet.

Alien motorcyclists!

The next morning, we booked a private boat ride on the river to see some pagodas, tombs, and temples. It was a total letdown. It was an impersonal noisy boat, the scenery was repetitive, and the temples were a sad display of a diminished veneration. We were also pushed to buy souvenirs from the boat owner. Oh well. Off to the next town...