Our favourites

Our favourites? Of the Marquesan group, we loved Tahuata with its sandy beach and fresh pamplemousse waiting to be picked from the trees, swimming up-close with numerous manta rays, and all of the several anchorages with new things to see and friendly locals to meet.

Graceful manta rays

Of the Tuamotu Archipelago, we loved Manihi. This is where we went pearl diving which was such a thrill and met Fernand who introduced us to other adventures, great snorkelling and visibility in many areas, and indulged in the privacy of the Blue Lagoon. (But we got our best pearl deals in Ahe.)

Varying blues of the Blue Lagoon

And of the Society Archipelago, we loved both Taha'a and Bora Bora. We did more at Taha'a - toured the island and vanilla plantation, and snorkelled the fabulous Coral Gardens. But at Bora Bora, we loved the beauty of the island and the colours of the lagoon waters, and we once again met up with a lot of sailors that we knew.

Sunset at Taha'a with Bora Bora in background

All in all, we had more fun at the Marquesas and the Tuamotus and would have loved to explore more of the Tuamotus, but there was not enough time with the limited 3 months that we are allowed to stay in French Polynesia.

We pulled anchor today for passage to our next destination of the Cook Islands (Suwarrow aka Suvarov).

Mixed bag

One night, a group of about 20 sailors went to the famous Bloody Mary's Restaurant for dinner. It's been in operation since 1979 and has had many Hollywood stars dine there. As it is located quite a distance from the Bora Bora Yacht Club, the restaurant/bar offers transportation.

Each evening, plates of local catch are delightfully displayed on ice. The host explains what is available and takes your order directly to the chef. As well as different varieties of fish, other items such as steak, ribs, and lobster were available (on the evening we were there). Our appetizers, meals, and desserts were delicious in the enchanting surroundings of Bloody Mary's.

One day, Jordan skidded out on a rented bicycle and severely scraped the skin from his toe, probably right down to the bone. The local doctor wrapped it with a skin bandage that he said would promote growth of new skin as it also expelled an antiseptic. The doc was pretty rough as he applied the bandage, even as Jordan repeatedly exclaimed Ow!

We have unfortunately noticed a fair amount of garbage along the roadsides, which is quite surprising for such a touristy place of French Polynesia. But there are a lot of homes with fancy gardens filled with stunning flowers. We've noticed too that Bora Bora has many, many dogs - obviously pet lovers here.

Unusual but pretty flowering bush

The next few days were filled with sailors watching weather and getting ready for passage to the Cook Islands. We are in an area of converging weather patterns, the graveyard of the easterly trades and the colliding lows that come up from between Tasmania and New Zealand. So we may have a mixed up sail on this next passage. This would be the end of our stay in the French Polynesia group of islands.

NO diving, he says

We made the 1.5 hour, somewhat tricky inside passage around to the north side of the Island of Bora Bora where large manta rays have made their home. Tricky because you have to make a sharp 'S' turn to navigate through the shallows and coral heads. There are channel markers and they corresponded very well with our very accurate and detailed electronic charts (CMap). So even though we were motoring over very visible shallows with only 1 metre under the keel, we were confident.

Safely anchored

We anchored (S16°29.305' W151°42.197') on August 22nd between 2 large hotels as their line of cabins stretched out into the lagoon. The lagoon here was a spectacular colour. Beneath Sea Turtle and far off into the distance, we could take in the views of the beautiful turquoise light blue waters. We have never seen the light coloured waters stretch so far at any other anchorage. What a magnificent view!

It was a bit rolly here as we anchored near a well-travelled track for boats coming and going to the hotel with their workers and guests.

We snorkelled with friends off SV Lisa Kay and a few other sailors also from this same anchorage. The large manta rays were stunning and visibility was quite good. They tended to stay deep so Jordan dove a few times to get a closer look swimming alongside them.

With 3 tour boats of snorkellers in the area, 1 of the guides told Jordan and all of the other sailors there NOT to free dive as it would harm the mantas. That was ridiculous as there were scuba divers below us going closer than any of us! And none of us ever touched the mantas or got close enough to scare them - they never even noticed us most of the time. So we continued to ignore the guide as he repeated his instructions to us.

While snorkelling, we found another of the same shell that Jordan discovered in Moorea, but bigger and better coloured!

We felt it to be too busy with all of the tourists. And the locals would not allow you on the beach as they claimed it was private. Perhaps they owned the small motus?

A lot of "private" motus...

So on the 24th, we returned back to the other side of the island and anchored by the Bora Bora Yacht Club (S16°29.479' W151°45.674').

Bora Bora

Approaching Bora Bora

We've posted photos of its impressive summits in the distance from Taha'a, another of the Society Islands. But on August 21st after motor-sailing for 5 hours, we finally set the hook (S16°30.057' W151°46.414') at this legendary island. This anchorage was just inside the pass into the lagoon and beside the small sand and palm covered islet, Motu Tapa. The lagoon around the island of Bora Bora is 3 times larger than its land mass.

Bora Bora (about 5,800 inhabitants) is 275 km (170 miles) from Tahiti. This picture perfect atoll is a quintessential paradise setting with its high verdant peaks rising out of the lagoon protected by the barrier reef. It is 9 km long and 4 km wide (5.5 x 2.5 miles).

We soon moved Sea Turtle a bit closer to the main island as we wanted to go out for a late dinner to celebrate our 8th anniversary and we had spotted a nice restaurant overlooking the lagoon. As usual, the meal was very good and very expensive (French Polynesia, after all!)

Jordan presented me with a surprise - a mother-of-pearl bracelet made from large shell pieces. Exquisite! Thanks sweetie!

Coral Gardens

After our tour of the French Polynesian island of Taha'a, we moved Sea Turtle once more away from the mosquitoes to beside a pearl farm (S16°35.258' W151°31.597') where the anchorage was a little deeper than we normally like at almost 17 metres, but it had a great view!

A magic motu (islet) with Bora Bora in background

The next morning, we dinghied over to the pearl farm that presented their product very well in their gift shop but found their prices to be exorbitant - very high retail!

We then moved to anchor by the Coral Gardens (S16°36.314' W151°33.457'). The Coral Gardens are exactly as their name suggests. It looked just like a garden that someone had planted, but with coral, and then filled with a grand selection of tropical aquatic inhabitants.

The Gardens are in a pass between 2 motus (islets) on the outer reef of the lagoon. Most people walk along the shore towards the outer reef and drift snorkel with the current back through, but we doubled our pleasure by snorkelling up and all around and then drifted back. Jordan had an 18-inch stick that he used occasionally to dig out a sea urchin and feed it to a frantic hoard of hungry tropical fish. Consequently it was funny to watch as we were then followed pied-piper-style by the aquatic mass, craving more. Each feeding brought more. Parrot fish, trigger fish, and many more. The Coral Gardens and fish were beautiful, colourful, and fascinating - another first!

Later in the evening, we moved across the bay (S16°36.958' W151°32.661') to an anchorage less windy as the wind had come up.

Vanilla

We were referred by another sailor to a tour guide, Tini. The morning was filled with his tour of the sites of his French Polynesian island Taha'a and the anticipated vanilla plantation. He stopped all along the way pointing out several types of vegetation and telling us that there is a multitude of types of bananas as he explained their growth. He chuckled when Jordan said that Canadians thought there was only one type.

We stopped at his house where he cut up a purple round fruit that he called starfruit. It was different than the starfruit that we had eaten in the Marquesas which was orange and shaped just like a star. This purple fruit had a star shape inside and the whole fruit was delicious (but do not eat the seeds). As his yard was full of fruit trees, he insisted that we go home with a big selection.

Next stop - the vanilla plantation - la Vallée de la Vanille (The Valley of the Vanilla). As soon as we arrived, we were enveloped by the heady aromatic scent of the vanilla. We were shown the vanilla plant, actually one of a thousand plus species of orchid, as it grows on a vine that looks just like green beans growing. The green vanilla pods are picked and left till they turn black.

Vanilla pods

The production process takes about 3 months, once a year. At the proper time, each pod must be massaged several times to release the vanilla scent into the pod (yes, massaged!) When it is ready, it is sold as whole pods or made into vanilla extract, powder, cooking oil, body oil, soap, etc. We bought the whole pods (soft vanilla sticks), vanilla body oil scented with the famous Tiare flower, and a bar of vanilla soap. We also got a jar of volcanic rocks that had been scented with vanilla. The smell in Sea Turtle is intoxicating!

Growing and processing the vanilla is labour intensive and very time consuming which explains the high price of it. The other cottage industry that we saw here and which we have seen throughout French Polynesia is copra production - breaking down and drying out coconuts which are then sent to Tahiti for the final processing into products such as coconut oil.

Judy and Jordan next to coconuts drying out

Taha'a

Jordan went for a hike to the top of Mount Tapiou of the Society Islands (294 metres, over 1,000 feet high), while I updated the blog. He returned with several outstanding photos.

Mountain top photo: Raiatea looking north to Taha'a

Later in the afternoon, we headed to the north of Raiatea towards another island called Taha'a - the 2 islands share the same lagoon formed by the same reefs that ring both. Taha'a is known as the Vanilla Island where we set the hook at 12:20 (S16°38.133' W151°29.206'). We dinghied ashore to collect information on going for a tour of a vanilla plantation.

After booking an appointment for tomorrow, we decided to move Sea Turtle to a different anchorage out by the reef and free of mosquitoes (S16°38.617' W151°26.763'). As we snorkelled around the reef, we once more accumulated several shells.

Sunday on a motu

Raiatea

We left Moorea, one of the Society Islands, to head for Raiatea on an overnighter at 10:00 on August 15th, arriving and setting anchor at 07:15 on August 16th (S16°49.158' W151°24.956') by the Faaroa River entrance.

We dinghied up the small snaking river past very lush vegetation, quite marrow in places. As we got further up, we had to dodge snags and shallows and eventually had to turn back when several large boulders prevented us from going further. On our way back, we stopped to talk with the local jungle farmers and obtain some of their fresh fruits.

An approaching panga along the Faaroa River

Judy in dinghy with fruits and flowers

In the afternoon, we moved Sea Turtle around to anchor by the town (S16°43.728' W151°26.611') where we wanted to have dinner at a restaurant. But lo and behold, none were to be had! From a street snack shop, we ordered atun frites (thinking we would get fried tuna) and also some chow mein. We received tuna salad along with French fries in a bun and chow mein in another bun! First time for French fries in a bun and chow mein in a bun!

We noticed a poster for Polynesian dancing at a hotel. The performance included live Polynesian music and the dancers were of all ages. We weren't expecting much as, after all, how good could young kids be? Upon arriving, we were asked if we had a reservation, which we did not. The place was packed. Overflowing. We were told we could not have supper but if we bought a drink we could see the performance. We sat on the concrete by the pool and watched a fabulous show.

The kids were absolutely adorable and were surprisingly quite good with their dancing skills! The numerous costumes, much of which were bedecked with real flowers and palm fronds, were beautiful and the skills of the older men and women as they danced to the live music were amazing.

We didn't know they made coconut shells so small!

Notice the hip movement of the little cutie above!

Touring Moorea

We rented a motor scooter on August 11th for 24 hours and drove around Moorea Island which only took a couple of hours to cover the 60 km (37 miles). We had considered staying till later in the evening for festivities at Tiki Village but were disappointed with the rundown appearance of the place so we continued going around the Island. We took a few photos of the views from high up:

Viewpoint of bay below

Sea Turtle at anchorage

Luxury Hilton Hotel - note the protective reef

In some respects, Moorea was a bit of a letdown. While the scenery of jagged lush green peaks is postcard worthy and the clear water snorkelling good, there wasn't much else to captivate one. We were both expecting many sandy beaches but very few nice ones were to be found, in fact that has pretty much been our experience with French Polynesia so far.

We moved to Opunohu Bay (S17°29.447' W149°51.089') on August 13th, where we are told Captain Cook actually landed in 1777 (not in Cook's Bay, his namesake). This was the best bay for postcard-type photos.

Sea Turtle at Opunohu Bay

The snorkelling had been much better at Cook's Bay but Jordan did find a very nice oyster shell - unfortunately no pearl inside! And we later noticed a stingray swimming past Sea Turtle. There is a small section of beach here where we had a picnic lunch and filled a water jug from a most unusual tap.

Jordan getting fresh water for boat wash

(Unfortunately, after leaving here, we discovered from friends that we had missed the great opportunity of swimming with sting rays. It was just up the shore northwest of our anchorage at Opunohu Bay. Standing in waist-deep, crystal clear water, people hand-feed them as they glide by and even rub up against them. They have become so tame that they are not threatened and do not pose a threat to humans. The following photo is courtesy of SV Lisa Kay.)

Young Benjamin of SV Lisa Kay surrounded by sting rays

At this juncture, we started to consider our remaining time allowed. Most of the time, especially away from the busy centers, we didn't pay much attention to time, schedules, or dates. That is the whimsical patternless life of cruising. Generally, the only clock for us is the circadian revolution of the earth. Lost in a time vacuum, we seldom know what day of the week or date of month it is, or seldom consider the time of day. We know not (or care much) what the rest of the world is busy doing as it has no effect on us (ie. politics, wars, etc.). But now we must reluctantly dig out the calendar for our departure from the French Polynesia in 2 or 3 weeks.

Moorea

Approaching Moorea

It was a leisurely 4-hour downwind sail to Cook's Bay on the NW side of the verdant multi-peaked island of Moorea (French Polynesia). As we started out on August 10th, Jordan said that it is the time of year that whales are present in the area. None had been seen so far. Well that was till later in the day, just before entering the bay, outside along the reef we saw 2 whales lazing away in about 50 feet of water.

The pass in through the ringed reef was well marked with channel markers and range markers (2 poles on shore in line with the safe track in). Just inside, we swung left and took a safe anchorage (S17°28.911' W149°48.996'), the hook in 45 feet, but as Sea Turtle swung to an offshore breeze, she lay over a sandy shelf with only 5 feet under her keel. The water was so clear we could see the anchor, shells, and fish below us.

Our first anchorage behind the reef

Cook's Bay

Snorkelling was great. As soon as we were in the water next to Sea Turtle, Jordan spotted large shells and selected a beauty from the white sandy bottom.

This and subsequent snorkels along the reef yielded some nice shells as well as octopus, rays, and the usual myriads of reef fish. One new species was a 2-foot vivid yellow needlefish that swam along beside us undeterred. Another never spotted before was what we think was a Sea Robin according to our fish identification book. This is a very unusual fish with its large wings and bottom trolling feet. Check it out on the internet as we broke our underwater camera.

Toiling and relaxing

The next few days were filled with various activities at the island of Tahiti and onboard Sea Turtle. Cruising life, you may think, is all fun. But there is also a lot of work in maintaining a boat, keeping up with all the necessary repairs, and just daily living jobs. No luxuries aboard Sea Turtle such as a washing machine, dishwasher, microwave, car in the garage, etc.

Boat jobs here included repairing the parted mainsail that blew out a while ago. It is getting old and frail but we want to make it last to New Zealand where sailmakers are readily available and very reasonable. Jordan used spare sail material for patching and spray glue instead of stitching. Doesn't look the best but will do the trick.

The other boat job involved re-plumbing a rather disjointed raw water intake line that had sprung an annoying slow leak. Jordan re-routed the original plumbing and simplified it eliminating 4 connections and hose clamps. The other overdue job was hand-washing all the salon and cockpit cushions to rid them of the accumulated salts for passages gone by.

We enjoyed Papeete's unique evening food fair experience where at 18:00, 15 to 20 mini kitchen vans pull up to the downtown waterfront, set up tables, chairs, and menu boards and offer their culinary selection that ranges from Chinese to pizza to crepes, etc. and with reasonable prices rarely found in French Polynesia. This happens every night of the week and is packed with patrons.

Vans everywhere behind bush

We went to the bountiful market where on its big day, Sunday starting at 04:00 (we slept in and arrived later at 05:00), and stocked up on all sorts of fresh fruits and vegetables. Long time since we have been up that early for produce! The market is spread over 7,000 square metres and includes craft booths and fragrant flower arrangements, one of which we bought for Sea Turtle.

Everyday municipal market

Bruce and Jeannie (SV Jabula) joined us one day for a rental car tour of the Island that left us a little disappointed, but we appreciated the Three Faarumai Waterfalls where it was only a 5-minute walk to the first one. If you look close, you can see Bruce and Jeannie in front of 1 of the 3 waterfalls.

Jordan and Judy with Jeannie and Bruce

We could have circumnavigated the island which consists of Tahiti Nui and Tahiti Iti in about 2 hours without making any stops.

The inner harbour here is never without at least a few mega yachts from all over the world bedecked with ultra expensive tenders and their own helicopter, in many cases. They are worth in the hundreds of millions of dollars and owned by untraceable corporations in tax free ports like Georgetown. Makes you wonder...

Arctic - 1 of many private yachts

Our last activity was taking advantage of the modern supermarket for provisioning where we got pretty much anything we wanted and at a reasonable price. It will be awhile before we see that again. It would also be awhile before we see our good friends Bruce and Jeannie again. We left them behind as they flew home for a few weeks.

Capricious customs

Our first concern upon arriving in Papeete Tahiti was checking in with our Agent. Next was to retrieve a package waiting for us. After a short bus ride and walk, she gave us instructions and directions on where to retrieve the package at the Customs Postal Depot. She had tried several times to pick it up for us but Customs would not release it to her. They stated that personal medical supplies or equipment (which this was) were not allowed to be sent to Tahiti.

The next day in a windless calm we motored out and around to the inner harbour where it would be much closer for us to retrieve our package. At the approach, we had to radio in to get clearance to pass under the airport runway approach off to our right. We took a berth at the City wharf (S17°32.395' W149°34.209') by Med-mooring - stern tying with the bow held off with an anchor line. We took advantage of the water faucet and cleansed Sea Turtle of salt.

Across the bay in the busy commercial sector of container ships and boat yards was our waiting package. So we launched the dinghy, and in only a short jaunt, tied up to a spot across the street from the Customs holding depot.

We approached with trepidation borne from past experiences of dealing with nightmarish experiences with Customs, but also because our Agent had been refused retrieval.

We walked in and handed them the same papers that our Agent had presented to them. The lady walked back into the compound, quickly returned with a box, called over another man who said Sign here, gave us the box, and we blurted Merci (Thank you). We glanced at each other and read in our faces Let's quickly get out of here before they change their mind. So go figure!

SOCIETY ILES - Tahiti

As we left the Tuamotus, it was a 1-day, 2-night passage to Tahiti in the Society Archipelago. We started out with a nice breeze on a port tack broad reaching doing 6 knots over ground. We reduced sail to slow down the first night. Then about half way, things changed. The winds backed all the way around to SSW and piped up to a stiff breeze making the last 12 hours unpleasant. With the wind on our nose, we did what all sailors hate to do - motored into them - bashing away and barely making 4 knots.

Bruce and Jeannie (SV Jabula) who were within sight of us most of the way, in the end motor sailed by falling off the rhumb line to fill the head sail. This put them in the lee of the big island of Tahiti where the wind change around the island made for a quick sail at the very end, beating us by about 3 hours.

An earlier jesting discussion amongst us needled the gals for never being able to spot land before the guys. So on this passage, the challenge was on. Bruce did everything possible to draw Jeannie's attention to the hazy outline of the peaks of Tahiti by saying things like Is that a boat I see up ahead? but Jeannie never cheered Land Ho! On our boat, it was again the Captain who made the proclamation. I'm sure the challenge will continue.

On this passage, we were treated with the most unusual fish activity. Jordan noticed out of the corner of his eye what at first he thought were dolphins but he didn't see the obvious porpoising. Then we saw churning patches of water of frantic bait fish trying to escape their pelagic predators from below and now trapped between them and the avian predators above. We were going through a huge school of large tuna! They were all around Sea Turtle, and from the bowsprit we could actually see them plain as day speeding past. This rare spectacle kept us enthralled for about half an hour.

Just after noon, we arrived, pulling in behind the reef about 5 miles east of downtown Papeete Tahiti in front of the Yacht Club and dropped the hook in the protected calm (S17°31.340' W149°32.063').

The islands here are ringed with coral reefs offshore providing calm anchorages on the inside. On approach, you can see the obvious change in water colour to a light turquoise. There are various safe breaks or passes through to the inside channel. These channels vary in width from next to nothing to maybe 500 metres (~1,650 feet).

Red-footed boobies

Jordan and I decided to explore another beach in the lagoon of Tikehau of the Tuamotus so we pulled anchor and sailed a few miles up the lagoon till we spotted a beautiful deserted area (S15°04.785' W148°09.208'). We walked the sable (pink) sand beach collecting shells and found a real beauty!

Judy on dinghy at one of the nicest beaches so far

Along the shoreline, we spotted several black tip sharks cruising for food in the shallow water...

Next we sailed about 5 miles further to Bird Island, a small islet within the lagoon, where red-footed boobies reside (S14°58.506' W148°05.921'). In the past, we have seen many boobies with blue, yellow, or brown feet at Isla Isabella (Mexico) and a few at Galápagos but have never seen red-footed boobies up close. We were treated to a real sight of bright reds!

We also observed the docile white birds and the noisy chattering black coloured birds with white plumed heads sitting no more than a few feet above us in the scattering of nests in the tree branches. After lots of photos, we headed towards the pass where it was necessary to exit before dark. It was a nervous passage across the lagoon as the sun was ahead of us putting a glare on the water that obstructed clear sighting of coral heads. We got to the pass just as the sun was setting and we lined up with the range markers for a safe straight track through the pass out into safe deep waters.

Tahiti - here we come!

Tikehau

We exited Rangiroa through the westernmost pass and with a following breeze. We were on our way to Tikehau, another atoll of the Tuamotus of French Polynesia, a short distance away.

Abandoned sailboat and dream at Ava Toru Pass

We followed the north coast of Tikehau and entered its wide Tuheiva Pass with a strong tide running from the west end of the atoll. We dropped anchor before sunset just inside the entrance (S15°00.359' W148°16.227') along with SV Jabula at 17:20 on July 25th.

Fisherman's hut at pass entrance

Jabula graciously invited us to feast on their freshly caught mahi mahi.

The next morning, we pulled anchor to sail further into the lagoon about 8 to 10 nautical miles towards the village. Under a clear cerulean blue sky, brilliant and cloudless in the sunshine, we set anchor at noon (S15°06.951' W148°13.782') in front of the Pension Hotu, a small family-run establishment with 6 bungalows for guests (www.pensionhotu.com).

Peaceful atoll

On the 27th, we snorkelled near the white sandy beach in the clearest water yet. The visibility of all the coral and tropical fish was excellent. It seems to just keep getting better and better at each atoll.

On Saturday, we polished off a delicious but expensive continental-type breakfast at the Pension Hotu and then went for a long walk. We passed the quiet village, the deserted airport, and went as far as the end of the motu where we saw a small stingray swimming in the shallow water near the shore. By the end of our return walk, the heat of the mid-day sun overhead had tapped our energy.

On July 29th, we took Sea Turtle with Bruce and Jeannie (SV Jabula) aboard to a defunct pearl farm about half an hour away where we expected to find several manta rays at their feeding station. We snorkelled all around but no mantas were there at the time so we returned to our anchorage.

Abandoned pearl farm

Drift snorkelling

Jordan was fishing from Sea Turtle in the Rangiroa lagoon when he snagged a Remora fish which are common in warm seas. These are very unusual fish as they have a flat sucking disk on the top of their heads. They use this disk to attach themselves to other sea life such as sharks or mantas and feed on parasitic copepods found on their hosts' bodies. They also attach to boat bottoms and may rarely attach themselves to swimmers!

Jordan with hitchhiking Remora fish

The suction disk on top of its head consists of a series of ridges sloping backwards and the outside ring creates the suction between the Remora and its host. By sliding itself backwards, it can increase the suction; by swimming forward it can release itself. As Jordan tried to release the fish from the hook, it attached itself to the dinghy floor board. He had to poke a knife under the disk to break the suction and then successfully returned it to the sea!

Sea Turtle, Jabula, and Birka went snorkelling in the afternoon. We first went to a small motu (islet) within the Rangira lagoon that the locals call the aquarium where the visibility was excellent and there was a prodigious array of sea life - the best we have experienced to date. The most exciting sight was watching hundreds of small yellow fish all feeding in a large coral. The variety of coloured and patterned tropical fish was amazing (haven't I said that before?) One small black tipped shark was spotted and Bruce found a perfect shell.

We then dinghied out to the entrance of the Tiputa Pass where we donned our snorkelling gear. Hanging onto our dinghy ropes, we jumped into the water and drift snorkelled through the Pass back into the lagoon being carried along by the brisk incoming tidal currents. What a riot! The visibility wasn't as good as at the motu but it was still a first-rate experience.

The Kia Ora hotel was having a Polynesian dance exhibition so we dressed up to attend. (The luxury hotel has overwater bungalows for $1,000 per night!) It felt good to be dressed up for an evening as usual attire is a swimsuit or shorts. The exhibition was enjoyable with the Moari warrior costumes and the women in hula-type skirts but the Manihi competition had been the best so far.

Swedish Happy Birthday

We rented a car along with Bruce and Jeannie of SV Jabula so we could tour the Rangiroa atoll of the Tuamotus and also do a bit of provisioning at the village which was 9.5 km (6 miles) away.

Jordan and I also wanted to find a doctor and/or pharmacy as we both had infected coral cuts near our ankles. The doctor was an attractive young woman from Camaroon (South Africa) who had been trained in Belgium. With proper dressings and antibiotics from the pharmacy, we were on our way for lunch where Jordan had the best fish burger ever. (The pharmacy owners had just come back from a trip to Canada, including Victoria, which they said was beautiful!)

We met up with 2 young Swedish sailors (SV Birka) who told us of a party that evening not too far from where we were anchored. So the 6 of us met up there to the sound of loud music and dancing. After which we went to SV Birka for a cocktail where they entertained us with a drink of rum poured from their small oak cask. When told it was Jordan's birthday, they immediately launched into singing a Swedish version of Happy Birthday. Another first!

Rangiroa

The passage to Rangiroa, our third Tuamotu atoll, had us running downwind in strong wind with rough choppy seas. We had out a small handkerchief of a jib and were still making 5 knots. We caught a few snapshots of our friends aboard SV Jabula...

SV Jabula disappears for a moment in heavy seas

We had to slow down somehow as we couldn't make the entrance through the pass of the atoll into the lagoon until around 13:30 when tide and currents were favourable.

To slow down, we sort of heaved-to. When one heaves-to in their boat, they should not be making any headway at all but we were going less than 1 knot. (In order to heave-to properly, we would need to have another [third] reef in our mainsail.) But as it was, it quieted down the motion while we waited.

We entered the easternmost pass called Tiputa and set anchor at 13:30 (S14°58.108' W147°38.185') at Rangiroa near the Kia Ora hotel cabins on stilts (www.hotelkiaora.com). Rangiroa is one of the few atolls with 2 passes.

Expensive rooms on the water

It was also very blustery in the lagoon.

Ahe Idol

A male pearl farmer came to Sea Turtle on July 18th in "her" outrigger to inquire if we would be interested in purchasing black pearls from "her" plentiful stock. We carefully picked out a few flawless beauties.

Pearl seller attired in "her" dress

The next night, we watched a dance and/or song competition that is the Islander's version of American Idol. There were some women who could really shake their hips hula style but a couple of the singers were hilariously bad. The competition lacked the costumes and quality of the one at Manihi (which we did not see as we were at the Blue Lagoon but we watched a video taken by SV Jabula).

A group of costumed and talented singers

We left Ahe with an easy exit on July 19th at 16:30 for an overnighter to Rangiroa which would be our third Tuamotu atoll to visit.

Ahe

Nice downwind on 1-day passage (courtesy of SV Jabula)

At 10:30, we left Manihi for a daytime passage to Ahe, our next atoll in the Tuamotus. Our friends, Bruce and Jeannie (SV Jabula) left at the same time which turned out to be a fortunate thing because of a mishap when we started into the entrance pass of Ahe.

Jordan had furled the sail as we wanted to motor in. Unfortunately, there had been a miscommunication between the two of us - I said I've got it meaning that I was going to turn the valve that opens the exhaust. Jordan thought I meant I had completed turning the valve so it was okay to start the engine. He turned on the key and the muffler blew apart, spraying sea water and filling the engine compartment with fumes which began choking and stalling the motor!

In a frenzy, the engine was turned off and Jordan dropped the anchor at the pass entrance in a stiff breeze with an opposing current next to several coral heads. We radioed our emergency to Bruce and Jeannie who were right behind us. They suggested a tow and readied a line.

We pulled anchor, no easy chore without a motor in strong currents, and they tossed us a line which we secured just as the current drifted us perilously close to the reef (we registered less than 1 metre below our keel) and they began the tow through the pass. The rip and opposing wind had us bashing into short steep waves, and with each, our bowsprit buried itself and gave us green water over the decks. But we persisted as it was a short distance till we were out of the rip.

Sea Turtle being towed by Jabula

Jabula and Sea Turtle were both able to raise a bit of a headsail to take the strain off the towrope; we finished the day as the sun was sinking crossing the lagoon to anchor in front of the little village of Ahe by 2 other boats at 16:30 (S14°32.248' W146°21.480'). Mission well done - Thanks Jabula!

That evening, Jordan opened up the engine compartment and without too much of a problem remedied the muffler within the hour. Fortunately, the muffler was designed to blow apart and be reassembled.

Ahe has a small village with paved roads, nice concrete dinghy dock, and several coral heads in the anchorage area. We had to watch carefully when dropping our anchor under tow. Other than a small magasin (grocery and knick knack store), there were no amenities.