Following days

We set anchor in Sausalito, California (N37°52.09' W122°29.315') and spent the last several days contacting family, catching up on things, doing laundry, meeting new friends, and being tourists.

We caught the ferry into San Francisco one day and walked along Fisherman's Wharf and Pier 39, walked up to Lombard Street (the crookedest street in the world), rode a cable car, and had a bite to eat in Chinatown.

Arriving by ferry...

I wonder where the boats dock on Pier 39??

Looking down on Lombard - crookedest street in the world

Taking a cable car...

Transamerica Pyramid - 105th tallest building in the world

Dusk at San Francisco with Alcatraz Island on the left

When we came back to the boat that evening, we decided to move Sea Turtle to a more protected spot as a southerly blow was forecasted to be coming into the Bay area. We had winds from 60 to 70 mph but our anchor held. Wild. Unfortunately, a couple of others didn't and one unattended sailboat ended up on the rocks. All was calm the next day.

Another day, we caught a bus to San Rafael to stock up on supplies for our watermaker. We need to pickle it as we are flying back to Victoria for awhile to finish up things that we couldn't get done before leaving.

FYI: Pickle is a slang term for the process of flushing the watermaker membrane with a chemical used to inhibit biological growth during extended periods of non-use.

Golden Gate Bridge

Cloudy skies, calm seas. 4 days, 3 nights...8 more hours to go, ETA 17:00. Jordan put the fishing rod out once again but no luck this time. We are now nearing the iconic Golden Gate Bridge and the bells are ringing. Seriously. The buoys are ringing from the wave action and the seals are sunning themselves on them.

Approaching the Golden Gate Bridge

We're here! Under the Golden Gate Bridge at 15:48, N37°49.292' W122°28.722' with the sun shining. We approached San Francisco close to shore and did not use the main shipping channel.

Passing under the Bridge

The Blue Angels were practicing above us for an upcoming airshow on the weekend as we entered the Bay. Very impressive.

The following was taken by a web cam (after we went under the bridge) which Aaron, Jordan's son, graciously emailed it to us. That small speck at the lower left circled in red is Sea Turtle with San Francisco and Alcatraz in the background:

Celebrated with a glass (or two) of champagne, a gift for this momentous occasion from dear friends.

Dropped the anchor at 17:05 next to the only other Canadian boat. Time for another glass of champagne...we have to finish the bottle as the cork blew off and into the water beneath the bridge!

From Victoria to San Francisco, Sea Turtle's performance has been outstanding and she has proven that she is worthy of all the confidence that we have in her. Cheers to Sea Turtle, her Captain, and the First Mate!

Almost there

It's been 3 days and 2 nights without stepping on land. No moon or stars, large dark clouds. Waves building and winds forming. Early in the morning, it was quite calm and we crossed the infamous Cape of Mendocino off the coast of California. No high waves or noticeable turbulence. One more day and night and we should be in San Francisco!

No stopping

We made good time yesterday so decided not to stop in Crescent City as originally planned. We left Oregon behind and are offshore from California (but still close in). As long as the weather holds, we will continue on until we reach San Francisco. We have had a very calm passing of the feared Cape Mendocino up to this point and the temperature feels warmer than on previous nights.

The bus heater fan quit today. This is the unit that kicks out a lot of heat into the boat cabin when the motor is running. Jordan will check it out later. In the meantime, we still have our propane heater and our Aladdin lamp which also emits a lot of heat (and light) when lit. As we did not have time for a 'sea trial' before we left Victoria, we are now getting all the 'bugs' out of the systems.

I have been taking shifts alone at the helm and Jordan is teaching me how to plot our course on the charts. He will make a sailor out of me one of these days!

Tired Jordan at the charts

Almost a full moon, bright stars.

Onward

The toilet in Sea Turtle got plugged from all the scum and seaweed around our boat at the Charleston marina (South Carolina USA). But we left Charleston at 10:30, and shortly afterwards, Jordan got it unplugged, good as new. So nice to be with such a handyman - another reason I love him so much!

Spotted 2 spouting whales - no tour guide involved.

All systems are now working! If we don't want to hand steer at the helm (especially at night), we can depend on our RVG which follows a course that Jordan sets when we are sailing.

Or we can use our tiller-pilot that Jordan has adapted to connect to the RVG which then follows a course that Jordan sets when we are motoring.

And in certain conditions, we can do a combo of motoring with the main sail reefed and having the RVG attached to the tiller-pilot.

We plan on sailing and/or motoring all day and night and then stop in Crescent City...

Bad news

Beautiful day in Coos Bay...but I got some bad news today. My Mom was injured right after we left Victoria and is in the hospital. Omigod Dad, Jordan wants to know if you pushed Mom down the stairs again? JUST KIDDING!!! It's good to laugh when things aren't going so great. LOL. Wishing you a very speedy recovery and sending you lots of love. Our thoughts are with you both.

Here's a picture when Mom and Dad joined us on Sea Turtle when we were still in Victoria - Mom doesn't like sailing very much and was glad to be back on shore!

Weather looks good...leaving today for Charleston (1.5 to 2 hours from Coos Bay) and then through the entrance back to the Pacific Ocean.

Taking a tour

We all wanted a long hot shower after 2 days at sea - badly enough that we paid $5 each for a shower at the downtown gym!

Today Aaron left us as he needed to return to Victoria (Canada) and we will stay at Coos Bay (USA) till we get a good weather window before continuing south. His help has been invaluable and very much appreciated. Travelling in rough seas and cold weather isn't something that a lot of people will volunteer to do, enjoy the trip, and be sad to be departing before reaching San Francisco. Thanks Aaron!

An up-and-coming future sailor

Rob, the Coos Bay Harbour Master, offered us a ride to Charleston to pick up some marine parts and then took us on a tour of the beaches and points of interest. One being the Simpson Reef where there were Northern Elephant Seals, Harbour Seals, Stellar Sea Lions, California Sea Lions, and frequented all year by Gray Whales. Very loud! Too bad we didn't take a camera with us today.

Coos Bay is a great marina that is right downtown with easy access to shopping, theatre, provisioning, restaurants, laundromat, and free internet access. By this time next year, the marina is expected to have showers, a "fisherman's wharf", and a number of other amenities. To thank Rob for his great tour, we invited him over for dinner. Jordan cooked up some of his freshly caught tuna which tasted absolutely delicious.

A display of the bounty

Coos Bay

Continued into Coos Bay, Oregon (N43°22.003' W124°12.706') with an uneventful sandbar crossing and a 10-mile motor up the channel to the downtown Coos Bay City wharfs. Stepped ashore at 13:00 after 2 days on the seas. Time for a rest.

Slow progress

We sailed all night last night from Astoria (Oregon USA) but didn't make too much distance southerly as we were tacking into a 10-knot south wind. So we turned on the motor at 07:30.

The guys (Jordan and Aaron) saw a group of porpoises cavorting all around the boat and playing in the bow wave. Also passed right beside 2 humpback whales and California sea lions. Unfortunately, I was down below sleeping with all my clothes on and several blankets and missed it all!

Sleeping beauty!

The weather was damp and cool but cleared up at noon. We are staying closer to shore, 10-15 miles, in case we have anymore boat problems. Motor-sailed all day with 5-knot winds on the nose. Continued to motor-sail into the night on glassy smooth seas with 5-foot swells and HAND steering as our tiller-pilot is not working. It should auto-steer when motoring, just as our RVG auto-steers when sailing.

Mixed bag

Boat repairs done so it was time to cross over the Astoria sand bar again, but in daylight this time. There were bar warnings and restrictions to vessels 30' and under. Once in the bar, experienced 16' breaking steep waves over 45' in depth.

Restrictions were issued to all non-commercial vessels as we were crossing but we couldn't turn back (would have been more dangerous to turn around than to keep going). 3-knot outflow ebb and river current against NW swells and SW winds made for a treacherous crossing. We were burying the bow sprit deep into the trough and next wave face.

It would have made a fabulous video but all cameras were down below and it was too rough to attempt to retrieve one.

We made it safely out of the most dangerous sand bar in the world and motored into 10-knot SW winds on the nose and NW swells on the side (10' swells average). We raised sails late in the afternoon and left full head sail and one reefed main throughout the night.

The RVG thankfully performed great after repairs!

A little close for comfort

Yikes! Almost hit by a cruise ship! Okay, not really - it pulled in 30 metres off our berth at the Port of Astoria in Oregon (USA).


Continued repairs today on our RVG and navigation lights, etc. Weather was a mix of heavy rain, showers, and sunny breaks. Not the best for doing outside repairs. Here is Jordan up the mast.


Heard tsunami warnings for the Oregon coastline for 22:00 after an 8+ earthquake in the West Pacific. The tsunami warning ended up being false.

Have been eating a lot of fabulous tasting tuna.

Major repairs

Went out to a well deserved brunch at the "Pig & Pancake" in Astoria, Oregon of the USA (N46°11.44' W123°51.379'). Great food. Between rain showers, Jordan and Aaron dismantled our RVG (auto-steering windvane) and performed reconstruction and repairs on it.

Aaron and I have been taking Stugeron to prevent seasickness throughout our voyage whenever at sea. For me, it has worked great. No problems at all. Aaron never experienced nausea but did yuck-it-up once or twice but felt great right afterwards. And he can't go below the cockpit for more than a few minutes unless it's to sleep only. Jordan has taken no meds and is not seasick at all. Lucky guy.

Two firsts

With Sea Turtle's RVG dislodged, steering continued to be difficult and exhausting. We were about 60 miles offshore of the continental USA and decided to head into Astoria for repairs.

Jordan decided to test out the great fishing rod that Mark and Alana of Victoria BC had given him and caught our first fish - a 15+ lb Albacore tuna - it took about one hour for the guys to land it!

Jordan displaying the prize catch

Continuing on with 1.5 to 2-hour shifts at the helm for Jordan and Aaron, we arrived at the entrance of the channel to cross our first sand bar. Vessels under 25 feet were restricted from crossing and warnings were issued for other vessels.

Crossing sand bars can be very dangerous in daylight and it was now very dark at 22:00. Jordan notified the Coast Guard of our steering problems about 20 miles out and they monitored our progress every 30 minutes. Using GPS and MaxSea electronic charts, it was a 3-hour trip up the channel.

Wet and wild bar crossing

At 01:00, we arrived safe, but exhausted, at the Port of Astoria (Oregon USA).

Tough day and night

We left Neah Bay heading into the fog and ship traffic. The wind picked up to 15 knots and we had trouble getting Sea Turtle's RVG to work (the RVG is an auto-steering windvane that we can use when sailing). Winds increased by mid-day to 20-25 knots, and by evening, gusts up to 30 knots - seas large and breaking at 10+ feet.

Through the night, the RVG dislodged and slipped almost out of its yokes and then started to break up and jam, throwing off the helm. After that, Jordan and his son Aaron had to steer throughout the night in 1.5-hour shifts as steering was so difficult, fighting against the broken RVG. I stayed up all night keeping whoever was on shift company.

Blue section at bottom of vane badly bent and barely hanging on

(The above photo was taken later when we were at dock for repairs.)

Neah Bay

We arrived in Neah Bay, Washington (N48°22.5' W124°36.3') today at 18:30 after another day of motoring - no wind but sunny skies.

When we were about to enter Neah Bay, we responded to a boater in distress whose engine had failed and he was drifting away from the diver he had somewhere in the water. We gave the GPS co-ordinates to the Coast Guard and assisted in the search for the diver. Everyone made it safe and sound.

After getting on shore later, we bought hot smoked salmon right off the rocks - so very yummy!

Next to the Halibut Mortuary!

Out to the big blue seas

We had a very successful open boat on September 13th as planned. Thanks to everyone that came and made it a special day for us.

At 13:30 PST (Pacific Standard Time), we left our moorage at Westbay Marina where we had met many great people that we consider our friends. Jordan's son Aaron is heading to San Francisco with us on the first leg of our journey.

Start of our great adventure

We had one lone dolphin escort us out of the Juan de Fuca Strait. We were thrilled as this is considered Good Luck by many sailors. We arrived in Port Angeles (N48°07.555' W125°27.137') at 18:00 where we cleared customs and provisioned with fresh fruit and veggies.

VA7 YYJ calling...

Jordan did such a great job of installing all the radios (Ham, SSB, and yes - stereo too!) We tested the Ham radio at our previous moorage and everything was working great. Then we moved to Westbay Marina, moved all our stuff onboard, and could no longer receive or transmit anything on the Ham!

So this morning, we motored out a couple of miles, and thank goodness, everything worked. It seems there is just too much interference at Westbay for us. When we contacted the Great Northern Boater's Net, we were being heard loud and clear in Neah Bay, Port Townsend, and even Alaska (all of USA). I was afraid that I had put too much stuff on top of all that copper strapping and was going to have to get rid of a bunch of things.

So for everyone with a Ham, Jordan's call sign is VA7 YYJ (yes, for the Victoria airport) and my call sign is VA7 TAC (you know, like in tacking a boat). Hope to hear from you once we begin our journey.

It was very exciting hearing everyone presently at Neah Bay as they were about to begin their journeys. Made us want to leave right away!

We did it!

We did it! As our friends on SV Jabula say:

...shaking off your landlubber status to become pollywogging, soggy bottomed, rum swigging water babies.

We finally finished moving onboard and spent our first official night as live-a-boards on Tuesday, August 4th, celebrating with a toast of Painted Turtle red wine. We've been in a state of upheaval for the last two weeks but most things have now been put away somewhere.

We are moored at Westbay Marina until we head offshore mid-September. Dreams do come true! We are hoping to have our "open boat" Sunday, September 13th.

Sea Turtle patiently waiting to leave

Almost done

Latest projects done on Sea Turtle, our future travelling "home":

• Finally figured out the continual engine problem. Perkins manufactured a new replacement part that solved the oil pressure drop that, unfortunately, dealers and mechanics were not aware of. Luckily, Jordan accidentally discovered the existence of this new part or else he would still be trying to solve the problem!
• All ceilings redone - all being vinyl except the salon, which Jordan made as traditional V-joint between beams (so much better than carpet ceilings!)
• Installed teak and holly sole in pullman, salon, and stateroom.
• Installed tile and Corion countertops in galley and head.
• Refinished and installed salon table and built stateroom bedside table.
• Created galley cupboards with front panels cut from the discarded window of a boat called Marlin II of Seattle - the glass etched sailboats in it are beautiful. I guess all these creative ideas come from Jordan's artistic side!

Sea Turtle has gone from having floors, walls, and ceilings being covered in shag rug to the present condition. Much hard work, but definitely worth it!

Few items left to do:

• Varnishing of most teak walls and cupboards.
• Attaching net to lifelines to prevent items from falling overboard.
• Making and attaching "granny bars" by mast to provide support when handling sails.
• Painting the blue sections of the deck with tan paint and rebuilding the dilapidated bowsprit.

Pirates!

We took a break from boat work and went to the annual May long weekend Fleet Rendezvous. Our boating friends were back in Victoria and came with us as their boat was still in Mazatlan. Great view from the top of the mast just before leaving!

Jordan up top

This year the rendezvous had a pirate theme and here are the top 2 costume prize winners.

The young...

...and a bit older!

Obviously, a great time was had by all and the weather was super!