Saint Martin/Sint Maarten

Leaving Barbuda early afternoon, a great wing-on-wing downwind overnight sail to Saint Martin landed us in Marigot Bay. This duty free Caribbean island is shared with French Saint Martin on the north and Dutch Sint Maarten on the south.

We were advised to check in on the French side for better rates. But even though entry and mooring fees are listed in the guides, we were never charged a cent for administration or anchoring during our entire time spent here.

Choices of anchorages were either the large lagoon in the middle of the Island with access canals out both sides of the Island, or in a somewhat open Marigot Bay on the NW. We chose the latter as we wanted clearer waters to run the watermaker after a needed repair. Surprisingly, we found the needed part when we dinghied to Dutch Sint Maarten and were back in business making water.

Watermaker repair

On our second day, we were pleasantly surprised to see a boat from the distant past that we had sailed many a mile with. We first met Rene and Cheryl on SV Gyspy Blues in Nuku Hiva (Marquesas) back in 2012 and shared many anchorages with them all throughout the "coconut milk run" and down in New Zealand! It was great to catch up and share our sailing adventures and reminisce over cocktails and meals.

Gypsy Blues invited us along on a tour of the Island where we saw evidence of the devastation dealt by the direct hit of Hurricane Irma in September of 2017. This was the strongest Atlantic hurricane since records were first kept in 1851. And then in the next 2 weeks Hurricanes Jose and Maria also hit!!

Caribbean colours on our tour

They didn't return

What's left of a marina in a preferred hurricane hole!

Marigot Bay was once full of lovely boutiques and shops but we noticed most places were permanently shut down.

95% of all buildings were damaged, and of 1,000 boats impacted, 500 were total wrecks. We dinghied past wrecks on rocks, on beaches, and in the clutches of the mangroves. Others didn't make it far and sank right on their moorings or at the dock. Boats in yards were toppled and we heard stories of large catamarans lifted up and flipped over like a rag in the wind.

High and dry

Some worse than others

On Jordan's wish list was to see the planes that come in for landing and takeoff at the somewhat famous Kerosene Beach (yes the name also refers to the smell). The end of the runway is right up against the fence and beach. Jets make extremely low approaches at times, barely clearing the fence and the takeoffs have careless spectators blasted.

Words say it all

A blast at the beach

The blast is so strong it kicks up a slew of beach sand and dust and can literally blow you off your feet. Hang on!

Back to boats, a beauty we saw docked at Sint Maarten was this mega yacht belonging to Mrs. Steve Jobs...

Nice toy

Antigua and Barbuda

As light filled the morning sky, Guadeloupe began to withdraw as we headed north to Antigua, a pleasant 40 NM sail away. There we checked in and anchored at Jolly Harbour. This island nation is actually 2 main islands, Antigua and Barbuda, about 20 NM apart.

When checking in with Customs and Immigration, they required a vet to do a cursory examination of our feline crew member, Chanty. So we had to bring her in by dinghy, not always her favourite experience.

Are we there yet? (returning to Sea Turtle)

As trade winds rise over the hills, it's typical that the forming clouds give us a rinsing. The rain isn't necessarily unpleasant as temperatures are mild and the rain is usually brief. Once when we were on our way to shore in the dinghy, we got caught in an unusual heavy deluge that lasted about an hour. The one time we didn't bring the umbrella and we got soaked!

Bailing the bathtub

So we dried out over coffee and eats. I took this opportunity to try the Caribbean Breakfast which included: Chop-up (a mix of spinach, ocra, and eggplant), Saltfish, Johnny Cake, plantain, and a boiled egg. It was an excellent choice. (Recipes online!)

After chatting up a couple on a boat from Vancouver, they convinced us to go down to the south side of the Island and see Nelson's Dockyard at English Harbour. English and Falmouth Harbours, the latter a much larger bay, are side by side separated by a narrow bit of land. We anchored at Falmouth in front of a gaggle of super mega yachts, then strolled over to the quaint setting of Nelson's Dockyard.

Former shipbuilding storehouse, now historic hotel

As the name suggests, Admiral Nelson developed this secure port to protect and service his ships. The old buildings in this picturesque setting have been preserved and now this UNESCO site is a preferred port by the richest of yachts where they moor Med-style in front of coffee bistros, restaurants, and shops.

From displays in the museum, we could picture in our mind's eye Nelson's ships cairned on the shore, crews scraping the bottoms, and repairing the copper plating. We saw depictions of the sail loft that once sat upon the round pillars that still remain.

Ancient sail loft pillars

Here we also saw a sample of the 4-person rowboat that just won a trans-Atlantic rowing competition and where the 2nd place oarsman was due in that same day.

Row, row, row your boat

At Falmouth, a taxi delivered us up to an interpretive center on Dow's Hill. Are you going to the party this evening? he asked. What party? we said. He explained that it was up on a grand vista nearby, known as Shirley Heights, the venue for dual performances. The 1st was by the Halcyon Steel Drum Orchestra and last a Reggae band. A barbecued feast was also being served and of course well stocked bars. How could we not?

It was a great setting overlooking the 2 harbours below, where a Caribbean sunset supplemented a superb performance and delicious meals. We fell into a mood that made the 'rhum' punches irresistible and kept us going back for 2nds and 3rds and...well...more.

2 harbours: English with Falmouth in the background

Halcyon Steel Band Orchestra

Hear them play in our 2-minute YouTube video by clicking HERE or clicking "Grooving to steel drums" under "Other Links" on right side of this blog page.

Returning to Jolly Harbour up the west side of the Island, we did our official checking out of Antigua, but contrary to the normal required prompt country departure after check out, we didn't leave this nation right away. We went around the corner and anchored at Deep Bay to snorkel the wreck of the Andes in less than ideal visibility.

We scrambled up the knoll to see Fort Barrington, long since abandoned and defeated by time. Along the trail were the dreaded Manchineel Trees that are very toxic. You are warned to not touch ANY part of the tree or sit under it as a drip of sap on the skin causes extreme irritation. Heaven forbid if you tried to eat the apple-like fruit of the tree!

Seen better days

We sailed a few hours north from hilly Antigua to the low laying sister Island of Barbuda, catching a nice Crevalle Jack fish on the way and laid the hook in its brilliant turquoise shoal in front of an 18 km (11 mi) long sandy beach.

For me??!!

Barbuda was a marked contrast to Antigua. Any sign of habitation, a tiny village, was off in the distance and with few other boats, we felt a tranquil seclusion. We had the creamy pink beach to ourselves as we walked about half of it, collecting numerous shells.

Miles of lonesome

Further up the beach, we saw the remains of Lighthouse Bay Resort, another victim of Irma...

Only ruins left

Anchorages:
N17°04.473' W061°53.720' Feb 06 Antigua (Jolly Harbour)
N17°00.721' W061°50.065' Feb 09 Antigua (Carlisle Bay)
N17°00.950' W061°46.464' Feb 10 Antigua (Falmouth Harbour)
N17°04.365' W061°53.792' Feb 11 Antigua (Jolly Harbour)
N17°07.655' W061°53.213' Feb 13 Antigua (Deep Bay)
N17°37.238' W061°51.140' Feb 15 Barbuda (Low Bay)

The Saintes and Guadeloupe

Without checking out of the French Martinique (Caribbean), we vectored north to Guadeloupe, another French territory island. About halfway though, we dropped anchor for the night at the island nation of Dominica (aka Dominique) but did not go ashore. Which in hindsight, we learned, there were some great sights on the island.

Approaching Dominica

The next morning we continued to a tight cluster of small French islands referred to as The Saintes (Isle des Saintes). Here the bright and cheery colours of the buildings and boats gave the village an authentic Caribbean feeling.

Typical design of Caribbean homes

We hiked up to the Napoleon Fort that was rebuilt in 1844 after being pulverized in 1809 by the English. It follows the curves of the hill top in a parallelogram shape and is still in very good condition with views of the harbour below. The well preserved building within housed a museum with informative displays of history and relics.

Harbour view from Fort

View of colourful cottages and boats

From The Saintes islands, we continued to Guadeloupe with our first anchorage in a cove that looked out at the Pigeon Isles close by.

Sunset over Pigeon Isles

After Jacques Cousteau visited these little islands, he emphasized the pristine and abundant underwater life and hence it is designated Jacques Cousteau Underwater Park. With dive shops on shore, Jordan signed on for a dive that he said was definitely worth it for the variety of life and clarity of waters. Note that Caribbean lobsters have no claws.

Coral colours

Blue spiny lobster

Coral cauldron

A pleasant day was spent touring the Island in a rental. We climbed up and over the Island by way of a windy road through the dense jungle in the National Park. Visited the Rum Museum with displays of the industry's history of rum making, intricate models of naval ships, and a prodigious insect exhibit of over 5,000 specimens.

At one spot, we ventured down a desolate dirt road that brought us to a stunning shore setting that we had all to ourselves. We cracked open a bottle of red wine and some deli delights and had a tailgate picnic as we watched waves cross emerald green shallows to meet their crashing end on a sandy beach as the ocean breeze added a freshness to the setting.

As we relaxed back on board Sea Turtle, the late sky painted us a brilliant rainbow over the quiet village of Deshaies (pronounced Day-ay) that was the anchorage backdrop.

Deshaies drama

For a delightful final day on Guadeloupe, we visited the Botanical Gardens of Deshaies. We wandered the winding pathways where tropical scents wafted through a diverse and vivid flora that covered 7 ha (17 acres) displaying 1,000 species of stunning plants, varieties of bright colourful parrots, and graceful pink flamingos.

Garden tranquility

Parrot pose

Origami of the orchid

But our best sighting was a long and vivid green flash of the setting sun! But where's the camera??!!

Anchorages:
N15°34.988' W061°27.996' Jan 29 Dominica (Prince Rupert Bay)
N15°51.981' W061°35.450' Jan 30 Iles des Saintes (Terre de Haut)
N16°10.316' W061°46.827' Feb 01 Guadeloupe (bay across Pigeon Isles)
N16°18.364' W061°47.873' Feb 03 Guadeloupe (Deshaies)