Those trade winds that carried us across the Atlantic sweep over these islands and most sailing is done along their west sides, the lee side, where the sea state is less boisterous. As sailor's make their way either south or north along these islands, the wind is usually on the beam making it great sailing for the most part.
We were presented with a striking contrast as we pulled into Sainte Anne Bay after our lonely 21-day passage. There we saw a startling mass of masts that crowded the anchorage. Is this what we were to expect of the Caribbean?
Boats, boats, and more boats
Our stay on the French Caribbean island of Martinique was short, staying at a couple of bays and at the marina for a couple of days. Martinique, the Isle of Flowers, is a blend of rich volcanic mountains, lush green hills, and white and black sand beaches.
It was here we first noticed sad remains of boats destroyed or heavily damaged September 5, 2017 by Hurricane Irma that swept through these parts.
Boat at the bottom
As usual after a long passage, Sea Turtle required a lot of washing down, both inside and out, so we made the unusual move to the dock at La Marin Marina where we used almost 1,000 litres of water for the job! But thankfully the water bill came in at a modest 9 Euros ($13.50 CAD).
Then back at anchor, it was the bottom that needed a cleaning. This last passage left a growth of gooseneck barnacles like a 5-day stubble. Jordan underestimated the toxicity of the bottom paint that had been enhanced by a deadly additive on application. Where his skin rubbed against the hull, it left the effects of severe swelling and red skin of his left forearm, a bloodshot left eye, and a fever of 103° with chills. It took several weeks before the effects wore off. We have never before experienced any symptoms from toxic paint scraping during our 9 years of sailing. So thankful I wasn't in the water for the cleaning this time!
We motorsailed away from south Martinique and headed up the west coast of the island under slight showers and where the grey skies broke to paint a beautiful rainbow.
Exiting under a rain shower
We anchored at the small town of Sainte-Pierre (still at Martinique) that sits at the base of Mount Pelee which erupted in 1902, where, in just a couple of minutes the entire town of 28,000 was wiped out with the exception of 2 persons. One was saved by his prison walls and the other was saved as he lived on the edge of the town. Everyone ignored the warning signs. Poor Sainte-Pierre, once the capital, had also been wiped out by a hurricane storm surge in 1780, killing 9,000. Sainte-Pierre has never been restored to its former glory.
Mount Pelee sleeping
A taxi trip north along the shore delivered us to Habitation Ceron, a botanical garden and rainforest with a 300-year old Zamana tree, cocoa trees to make chocolate, and trickling streams. We wandered the jungle trails on the perimeter of the former 17th century sugarcane estate with refinery ruins still standing.
Time worn, jungle cloaked
Zamana tree and me
Unfortunately we had a disappointing experience at its open-air restaurant with exorbitant prices and food drowned in sauces. I decided to try the local crayfish at $30 but was shocked when I was presented with ONE tiny crayfish drowned in a bowl of sauce!! But we did enjoy the refreshing rainforest walk.
A short distance away was a secluded beach setting with black sand, white rocks, and rolling sapphire waters that made it a photo op.
Volcanic sand
Anchorages of Martinique:
N14°25.625' W060°53.385' Jan 17 Sainte Anne Bay
N14°28.149' W060°52.045' Jan 22 La Marin Marina
N14°26.207' W060°53.178' Jan 24 Sainte Anne Bay
N14°28.145' W061°05.440' Jan 26 Anse Chaudiere
N14°44.434' W061°10.674' Jan 27 Sainte-Pierre
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