Journey to the center of the earth

We had learned that another yachtie on board Oh!, from our home port and another Bluewater Cruising Association member, was in another marina up the coast so while Sea Turtle was safely tucked away at Marina Rubicon (Lanzarote, Canary Islands), we took a local bus up to say hello. They too are making the Atlantic crossing. We see almost no Canadian boats so to meet ones, especially from our home port, so many miles away is a delight.

The next day we took off in a rental car to see some sights along the length of the island.

Our first stop was at Jameos del Agua which opened to the public in 1966. (Jameos means openings and Agua refers to the pristine freshwater pond down inside the volcanic tunnel.) We entered by descending uneven lava steps, then through a restaurant in the ethereal grotto setting that overlooks the underground natural pond. The pond is unique also in that it is home to teeny tiny blind albino crabs, endemic to this location.

Reflections in volcanic pond

Further along as the overhead craggy canopy gave way to sky, healthy vegetation seemed to sprout from the harsh rockiness. A 100-year old palm lined a curved white area with a small man-made pool of intense turquoise blue water.

Contrast of nature and man

The famous local artist and architect, Cesar Manrique, was instrumental in making these cavities accessible, in the landscape, and creating a large auditorium within a large natural cavity that is now used for concerts and cultural events.

Next was the 3,000- to 5,000-year old Cueva de los Verdes (Green Caves). (It was later explained that they are called Verdes after the goat herding family by the namesake that discovered them.) These were actually lava tubes created by the molten liquid that flowed under the solidified surface.

Access was by way of an opening with large green ferns at the rocky volcanic surface, then by moving down the jagged path and steps. A required guide provided direction and an interesting auditory for the 1+ kilometer trek. (There are actually about 7 km of tunnels with at least 16 caves but this is the only part open to the public.)

Huge ferns before descending

The 'journey to the center of the earth' was by way of varying degrees of provided lighting that had us at times squeezing through tight passages and other times strolling in cavernous chasms. In past ages of conflict and piracy, local people used the tunnels to hide out undetected.

Dim tunnels

One larger part of the tunnel had been set up as an auditorium that could seat 500. It is there that an unparalleled naturally perfect acoustics is provided for classical music concerts. A dark black piano set the scene.

And the tour of the Caves has a pleasant surprise that has been kept a secret for 45 years from all of those who have yet to visit. Sorry, we won't spoil it!

Combining art and nature, it was onto the 475-m high Mirador del Rio, created, again by artist and architect Cesar Manrique in 1974 that hangs on the edge of a cliff. Through full height and width windows or from the balcony, stunning panoramic views below of nearby Isla Graciosa and the wide open Atlantic Ocean beyond. Inside you are treated to the flowing all-white and curving architecture where you can treat yourself to food and drinks.

View from balcony

Our final stop was at the home - now a museum - of Cesar Manrique in Haria Lanzarote (Casa/Museo Cesar Manrique). He lived here for only 4 years until, tragically, his early death in a car accident (1919-1992). Manrique created and designed his masterpiece home on lava fields where once again he totally combined art and nature and huge glass windows that invited nature in. He also had a separate studio where he painted.

Cesar in his studio (copied from internet)

Outdoor areas included several courtyards, terraces, a swimming pool, etc. Indoor areas included his own art, work of his favourite artists, furniture he designed and/or built such as lamps using shipwreck wood, a dining table, sculptures, etc.

Our favourite of the day: Cueva de los Verdes - highly recommended!