Rough ride to Sicily

After pulling anchor from Otrano Italy, we were now heading to Sicily on a 2-day passage. The winds were predicted first from the north, then by the time we would be crossing the large bay that you would call the arch of the boot of Italy, the winds were predicted from the northwest at 15 to 20 knots.

Well, when we pulled out of the anchorage, we saw about 25 knots right away. So that was no problem. A nice downwind run and being that it was on a point we expected a little stronger winds there.

Storm on horizon

Then as we rounded the heel and started to cross the big bay, the winds started to increase. All day and night they gradually kept building as did the seas. At first, we double reefed, then triple reefed the main and flew a smallish staysail, and still had a hard time keeping Sea Turtle under 7 knots on the broad reach, which is fast for our boat.

Jordan didn't want to run with it as it would put us further out to sea, and the strategy was to just make it across that 1 area and then into a calming lee situation.

The last adjustment to the sails were easing the halyard and boom vang, putting a sag in what little rag of the triple reefed main there was to de-power it. After that, it would be either heaving-to or running with bare poles and the drogue if necessary.

The nasty seas were steep and at points the boom was skimming the tops of the waves as we were bucked. We knew that that was a recipe for a broken boom as Jordan had learned from Tony Gooch (he had done exactly that while he was doing his round the world passage).

In the wee hours of the morning as we were almost across that big bay, closing in on the far point, it was there that the wind and seas were at their strongest, a good 40 knots sustained. All of a sudden, we heard a bang and the boat heaved in the opposite direction!

A big wave had kicked our butt around to the point that the auto-pilot got confused and allowed an accidental jibe. The boom, with that small rag of a sail, flew across hitting the running backstay with such force it broke its snap shackle and left the backstay whipping in the wind.

The other unfortunate and totally avoidable incident was when a large wave crashed over the decks, a large portion of which surged under the lashed down dinghy and into the slightly open hatch there. It came in as a bucket full, soaking the Pullman mattress, bedding, and pillows full of towels, dishcloths, tea towels, etc.

As always, there is an end to the drama and so it was that as soon as we made it past the point, things calmed down just as the sun came up. A new dawn in both respects.

Eventually the winds died out during the day and it was back to motoring. As we neared Sicily, we saw the orange sun sink behind Mount Etna, very evidently still an active volcano with its spewing smoke.

Where's there's smoke, there's fire

Motoring that night eventually gave way to sailing until at about 08:00 we pulled into Syracuse on the southeast coast of the island of Sicily (Italy).

As we entered the large bay and before anchoring, Jordan spent time at the bow swapping anchors, replacing the always used but now bent CQR for the standby Bruce.

Nearing Syracuse

Once securely anchored in the large protected bay close to town and we caught our strength, we headed to shore to check it out...

Passage from Otrano to Syracuse Aug 27 to 29
N37°03.573' E015°16.910' Aug 29 Syracuse (Sicily, Italy)